Ooo i do love questions. 1st off no room under the board. Under a board is ikky. The baterys can be higher lowered. But if lowered they effect acsess to the wheel nut. (Needed for ajustment as tyre wears.) Esc was cool to touch after 30 mins źip around the town center. Will fiberglass over 3d prints. Battery is a 10s 3p out of the doner scooter. Will split it in half and add a 14awg wire as a bridge. And a new bms ( current bms spans the full top of the battery.
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1st test was a great sucsess. A few things need to be compensated for but im happy to move on to the next stage of this design. Overall it preforms identical to the original skateboard in terms of control and steering. )just no pusshing… Wheel does slip a little as i start to flatten off the round bevel of the tyre (solid tyre) will add the chain tentions to the axel. Regen breaking also adequate. Managed to crawl down a steep hill.
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Makes sense, especially since you are using a standard size board rather than a longboard, its like trying to squeeze 12 gallons of shit into a 10 gallon hat 
Very surprising, but great news.
Will add weight, but also srrength
Makes sense
That sounds huge, there are definitely much smaller optionsxout there.
Nice bonus feature, do you have reverse also?
You’ve nailed this project right out of the gate.
Really nice work.
Colour me impressed
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no reverse, but i do have free wheel… thanks buddy ive been playing with skateboard concepts for decades now, made a few different types and rode most of the fad boards, im surprised this went this well too… we shall see if we are still smiling when i cut the battery in half…
if your in a country that snows, and like me your too cheap to buy a snowboard, you would love my skenkboards, half way between a snow skate and a snow board,
I’m a good few hours away from snow…and even then, Snow is atleast another 3 months away.
BUT your board design does look like fun, did you wax the rails? Some PTFE spray would work also, infact some teflon rails might work well on the base…
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nope dont do any of that,byt shall look into it. the underside of the board is that stuff they use to clad showers. i duno if its pvc or not,
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Little update. Its really impressive ev did 7km and have half a battery left. Mannaged to lift this belter from local cctv.
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Did 9km today… looks like about 15km per charge
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As i have an ender 3 with an ill fitting glass bed. Max print size is 200mm x 200mm… so ive had to print it in bits and super glue togeather… one more part to go… then we modify the battery and install the new bms.
update case is all done, just fitting the ESC atm…
i took a look at the battery this morning, looks like the way its conected its gona be a ballake to split but not impossible, just means i will have 4 wires between 2 halfs of the battery. ill deal with thqat when i get to it 
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If you give me some dimensions I can probably print one for you
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Hehehe i can do that. Will have to wait untill its fiberglassed…
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That doesnt look right to me…
What you have is a pretty common 10s3p (10Series, 3 Parallel) battery pack.
Giving you a 36Volt pack.
Electric skateboards / scooters/ bikes are normally
24, 36 or 48V
You can change the layout, but you want to keep the configuration (10s3p), which will match with your BMS, charger etc.
Did you get a new one?
Heres a wiring diagram
Heres a good guide
Step 4 for the batteries
I could have misunderstood how you were going to wire it, but just in case, hopefully the info above helps anyway
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Yeh just litterally cutting it in half and bridging the distance with cables. I have a new smaller bms. That will conect in all the same spots. I dont have a spot welder to make things less jank…
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Simplified example
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B1 and b10 are on the same end on my battery. It does a loop
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Ahhh, gotcha…
That was just me misunderstanding…
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