Thanks a ton for the replies! Much appreciated.
I was just coming to change the original post to say it’s probably closer to 1/16" or 3/32" in on the skin of the vehicle.
Making a window really isn’t an option…
I might have to just go to a regular style lock if that’s the case. Bummer.
I’m not sure about how things get cloned? I was under the impression that they just had to be in close proximity to you?
Would the 13.56mhz do better through metal? I’d read that 125khz could go through thin metal?
All locks just keep the friendly thieves out. It’s a vehicle and has windows, so there’d always be alternate ways to enter…
Not sure what you mean about threat models, but people breaking into the buses is a definite things, and happens often.
Thanks for the info on the proxmark 3. I was hoping to skip that learning curve. Looks like you can get one with the better firmware already installed, so maybe that’ll help.
Oh, and I’d already watched that video, thanks! That’s what made me wonder about the strength of the antenna.
Sounds like I might have to go another route though.
I’ve really been looking forward to completing this project.
Sorry, I don’t speak gibberish, I have no idea what that is…
Behind an indicator? Glass? Wing mirror?
I am going to track down a relevant video for you and somebody else that posted the other day, I’l be back with that after this reply…
With the right equipment and more importantly knowledge that you have one and the intent to use it…
No, not really, probably worse infact. The 125kHz ( Low Frequency = LF ) might, possibly, maybeeeeee? Through thin aluminum ( FYI Pronounced a·luh·mi·nee·uhm ) with a full sized card
EXACTLY!!!
Yeah fuck that for a game of soldiers, If you don’t need it, don’t bother…You should not need one.
Yeah, It is good. AKA good with implants and key fobs, even better with full sized cards…
I think you are on the right track… Consider the alternatives above ( wingmirror etc ) and I’ll be back shortly with another suggestion.
In the interim, if you can take a photo or short video of the bus door and surrounding areas, we all may be able to give you some suggestions,
Oh, one more thing. I know there’s been a system around for years on the corvettes. Where it unlocks when you bring your fob close to it. No need to push a button or anything. It just unlocks. That’s got to be similar right? And RFID??
There are a number of cars now with those proximity type system built in OR you can after market install one yourself, it would be more secure, BUT I really think the xEM xAC will be perfect for what you want to do, and “simple”
But if you want to home brew a similar proximity one @turbo2ltr made a fantastic “hack”
They have some of the best read range I’ve seen for implants,
I think I have a stop sign floating around I can try to put it in between to see if it reads, but I’m guessing no edit confirmed, will not work
As for the comment above, like the corvette systems… no it isn’t going to work like that, those are active battery powered fobs that are always sending out a signal for the car to find
Implants are passive, no battery, and are for all intensive purposes are dead until within the 1” range of a reader
(That’s like 2-1/3 cm pilgrim)
Also it’s worth pointing out, the xac doesn’t provide any meaningful power, so you’d need to pull power from the bus to power the xac, and to power whatever the xac controls
I’m not currently doing an implant, but a ring and several wristbands, but I’d guess the strength and range is about the same?
The bus is going to need to power?? The power supply for the system? It looks like 110v to 12v for a lot of them? But the one I was asking about looks like it takes 12v? I’ll have a pretty massive solar system on the bus, so power shouldn’t be an issue (4000 watts).
I’m still curious about trying to increase the receiver power? I have a system I got that’s from germany with what looks like a pretty robust antenna. It’s also 2 wire. Could I replace the antanna on the Access Controller V2? Or is it dependent on how much power is going to it from the board?
I couldn’t get that system to work for a number of reasons, but I’ll fire it back up and see if it will trigger with a piece of metal between. Good idea.
Behind the indicator ( May be some issues, but worth a test )
Behind the badge…but I guess it is Aluminium :shrug:
Behind the glass / Perspex on the door
It looks like you are putting another skin on the door ? So you could enclose the whole access system behind it. you will just need to run power carefully ( easy ) from the hinged edge
So, it just kind of dawned on me, that a window doesn’t have to be a window? Right?
So, I could make say a 2" (5cm for you) hole in the side of the bus and cover it in fiberglass?
And putty and paint over it? So it doesn’t look different from the rest of the bus? (isn’t obvious).
Then the signal should be able to pass through it with no issues right?
I could even put/imbed the antenna for the Access Controller V2 right into the patch maybe?
That’s a great idea.
I’m going to cut a hole in the side and refill with resin/epoxy and put the antenna on the inside.
I’m thinking it should work.
Then sand and paint over it and you shouldn’t hopefully know it’s not the original bus side.
I’ve ordered the Xac, so will test things first and then implement. Super hopeful it will work. I’ve been anxious about this part of the build for a long while now, but really wanting to do this.
