The anti🚫-derailment🚃 & thread🧵 hijackingšŸ”« thread🧵 ⁉

I’m also very angry! :emoji_angry:

At least the idiot who broke them bought his own:

:man_facepalming:t2:

Then they’re as good as broken…

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i feel like an inaccurate caliper is more dangerous than an obviously broken one …
believing you’re accurate but not can be dangerous, if its broken, you know not to trust it

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Can confirm… I had a very bad experience with iGaging calipers, those would be accurate most of the time but not all of the time… I bought the ones from Mitutoyo to replace them and I love that I can actually trust them within the stated accuracy.

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The real danger is lack of competency coupled with confidence. People are stupid, and do increasingly stupid things the more sure they are that they know what they’re doing.

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Speaking of misplaced confidence, someone asked my for the drunken iGaging calipers when I told him…

:emoji_mindblown:

Imagine asking for a pair of veryfars!? I replaced them with verynears…

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Running the turbomolecular pump at all times does sound like a hassle…

Bad idea time!




Half magnet/half chip implant?

I know there would be some interference to the field directly from the magnet, and the x-series would further have issues with the ferrite-core becoming saturated, but would it just suck, or would it be completely unusable?


Actually, after thinking about the first one for more than a second, would it even manufacturable? I had imagined a sort of two-thickness design (side view):

Not, just a great big magnet-thickness hockey-puck

Also, not to scale, I was thinking a much thinner magnet…

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It would pretty much be the same as not having the ferrite core in there, so any material will do in this case. While that is theoretically possible, it would require a significantly higher amount of turns on the antenna coil.

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Need more coffee :face_with_spiral_eyes:

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Me, every moment of every day always and ever forever!

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:face_with_symbols_on_mouth::face_with_symbols_on_mouth::face_with_symbols_on_mouth:

Spent the last 2 hours figuring out why my code error out on compile when it built yesterday to find out I had a space in one of the files holding some of the headers :man_facepalming::face_with_peeking_eye:

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I have just gotten my package from the one and only @Hamspiced.

It has been a long day, but I’ll probably have measurements of the 3 pixels by midday tomorrow, and maybe a few other devices.

I believe it should be standard practice to not have any modifications (ie hammy stickers) on any devices during measurements? (This does not apply when testing said modifications, say on a Hammy PM3 Easy HF repeater)
Doing some quick and dirty testing, it appears that there is no difference between Taginfo and NFC Tools, but ther is a difference between those apps and ZINC’s powerscan feature. I wonder if this could be due to momentum in the physical dial of the Field Meter Pro? Or maybe ZINC’s powerscan truly does not push as much power as scanning using the usual apps due to the continuous nature of the feature?

I want some input from someone with more knowledge than me before I start writing down numbers.

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You’ll get minimal power because only the meter is interacting with the field, I bet. Phones are good at minimizing power use. Throw a blinky in the mix as a load.

Edit: this is where it gets interesting. Those are the power put out for just polling. Not much of a reflection if the reader’s power. If that is the variable we are after, we need a dynamic contactless load.

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Stick figure theatre

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I thought about putting in 2 rows.
One would be without a Hammy sticker
and one would be with.
That way people can base their decisions on that, and if a sticker will be the solution.

Also we need to decide and agree on a distance for taking measurements, be that contact or 10mm etc. I am personally leaning towards contact as that is more pure.

Should the meter top out, my opinion is, ā€œwho caresā€ it should get a gold star :glowing_star: Meaning, it will likely work with any implant.

Thoughts?

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Balanced a Hammy Field Detector on top of the probe. It appears that my ā€˜scan’ readings come out lower with a HFD, but my ā€˜powerscan’ readings are roughly the same with one.. And I get the highest readings with a ā€˜scan’ but no HFD. That’s partially why I’m suspecting momentum of the physical components of the meter may be throwing off my readings. What is notable is that normal scan + HFD lines up pretty well with both powerscan readings.

Scan no HFD: ~6v
Powerscan with or without HFD: ~3v
Scan with HFD: ~3v

not final numbers, phone case and sticker involved, more info below

In the event that momentum throwing off the readings, is the blink counteracting that, or is it just landing there out of chance?

For reference, my Pixel8 has taginfo and ZINC, and I’m doing this all with a case and hammy sticker, in line with the hammy sticker (serves as good point of reference).

Bad news (for me): Looks like I placed my hammy sticker in a less than ideal spot
Great news (for all of us): Looks like the FMP is a hell of a lot more accurate with finding ideal hammy sticker locations than a blinky.

As long as we accept one value or the other, not requiring both, I see no issue with this. I can also throw an experiment in there later today to see how much of a difference this makes.

At this moment I’d like to get more testing in before I lean one way or the other, particularly caseless. Also, it is worth noting that I’m seeing lower numbers on contact with a hammy sticker than ~5-10mm away.

At this point I agree, though my opinion is suject to change based on how my shitty door lock (does not work with xSeries, does with offbrand Magic Ring) reads.

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Also, I hear some of you talking about your fancy calipers.

I need a set, but just for 3d printing design. I don’t need super super accurate, but I do need reasonable accuracy. The holidays are coming up, and I need xmas list items.

What reasonably priced set of calipers can I get that are good down to, say, .5mm? a 12-16cm max width would be a good size for me.

Edit: If you think I need more accurate, feel free to suggest more accurate. Bigger? Ehh, as long as its not huge. This will probably be my only set for a while, but I’m mostly working with small items.

https://a.co/d/hWTKux2

I’ve used these for years, both as a hobbiest and professionally. No complaints.

Will easily get to .1mm

^

Always forget to direct reply god hell

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