You have a couple of options.
Ask the question here as you have done, and we walk you through it, and at the end we can move it to project
Once its complete here you could put together a concise and condensed Project for others to learn from.
OTY but personally I like the 2nd option
You have a couple of options.
Yeah I’ll go with the second option
As you can see there are plenty of people here that are willing and able to help you out.
You now have a decision to make
Pay a pro (agreed stereo installer or maybe auto-electrician your best options)
Positives are that it will be fast and safe.
Negatives, you will likely learn very little
Get ready to learn, and do it yourself, I promise it is nothing difficult.
Positives is some “great” learnings for you and you will get our admiration and respect
Negative, will likely take longer
Do MOST of the work yourself (installation and wiring), get the pro to finish it off by picking up and connecting power
Positives same as option 2, will save money in labour from Option 1
Negatives, again likely slower
NOW I REALLY HOPE YOU GO WITH DIY OPTIONS, OR I AM GOING TO WASTE A LOT OF TIME WRITING THE NEXT BIT UP
If you choose to use xAC V2
REMEMBER, there is more than one way to skin a cat, but this is along the lines of how I would do it.
Start taking notes, electronic or written form, for your own reference ( and also to do a project write up at the end, and don’t forget photos , photos can also help if you start changing things around with wiring ets to get you back to a baseline if “you fuck things up” )
Make yourself a workspace to do a bench test and learn how it works check out this link for an idea
Get together some basic tools:
For this install, the list can be quite short, some things will be essential, you might need to do some sums, and the cost for a pro to install may be less/ ~same/ more and you might change your mind, bearing in mind, you will then own those tools and can do more projects in the future
Others you can get by without.
Just a quick mind map ( some things you will be able to use alternatives / work arounds)
None of this needs to be expensive, but you often get what you pay for ( I have heard it mentioned many times on here, I am not personally familiar with it, but in my mind at least, harbour freight quality should be fine.)
Sidecutters / wire strippers
Soldering iron / solder ( could use crimps and crimp tool but personally think soldering is better general purpose )
Heat shrink (electrical tape)
Cable / wire a few meters of red and black ( ~24 awg )
Fuse and holder
12V load ( LED or lamp etc ) for bench testing
Automotive relay(s) if you want to be able to unlock AND lock
A workshop manual for your car may be helpful, but Google and “common” wiring may help out here and can be tested with a multimeter
This list could keep going, but that SHOULD be enough to get you up and running.
Others will probably jump in with something I have omitted, to which there isn’t a safe workaround.
9-12v power supply (battery / wall plug) 12V Battery probably better for portability!?
I don’t have the V2, so hopefully somebody can confirm if a 9V battery will operate the unit for testing, personally I think the 12V will be better for this
From here, watch the xAC V2 video
Replicate on your bench, ( add a fuse on the positive wire between the power supply and the xAC) enroll your implant, ask here if you have any questions.
So what you will notice we are doing here is breaking things down into manageable bites
Now you are ready to get into the vehicle [pun] side of things.
Planning will help you out here
As you stated the windscreen or wing mirror are likely your best / easier options for antenna placement. but you will want to test them in situ, to make sure you can read your implant through the glass or plastic
Find a location to put the xAC unit within the length of the antenna cable run (in an enclosure eg. the 3d printed enclosure link by the dingo brothers @PulsarForce and @Compgeek), For everything else you can easily extend the cable length if required.
Put the fuse somewhere accessible, or if you can access it, pick up a spare fuse socket on your fuse panel
If you were to install up until this point and weren’t comfortable with the following steps, it would be a good place to get the pro in to finish it off and power it up. ( They will probably do something similar as described below )
Now the slightly more tricky part, mostly because at the moment we have some unknowns:
Your door locks and how they operate.
There are 2(3) main “types” Positive pulse, negative pulse and vacum ( unlikely )
If you had a workshop manual for your car this would help about now, otherwise, a multimeter can be used ( and should be anyway to confirm)
In the drivers door should be the master door lock switch, if you can pop that out, that will make things easier, otherwise you may need to remove the door card to get access to the wiring / underside of the switch.
Man, this could take a while to explain… Do you know how to use a multimeter?
I ( Or somebody else ) might find you a good youtube video if.you need one
I might leave it here for now, until after you have answered the few questions throughout my ramblings above and below
Plus there are a few things to cover, like fuse size, how to earth, does your car sit for extended periods of time
I feel Option 2.1 will be most beneficial for me because it never hurts to learn but also I’d trust a pro more with the end bits.
My key fob is just old so only the unlock works which may or may not prove beneficial depends on what you guys think.
I already have most of the things you recommended for it but I will have to order a multimeter because the one I have is dirt old and no longer works. It may also be some time before I even get the xAC v2 as I’m buying a bundle so I either have to wait for my aid refund to come in or just to get the money from work.
I feel like unlocking will be sufficient enough since locking only requires a button press from the inside so that’s not too much trouble.
I will look on the internet for the workshop manual I’m sure I can find it somewhere.
Lastly and not as importantly I will be making use of that enclosure by the dingo brothers (I can finally use my printer for something functional) Thank you guys so much for the help!!!
THIS would be your easiest Key fob + xAC =
But we can help you through whatever you want
Have a read through this ( I dont think Amal will mind )
It is an excerpt from Amals RFID Toys… book ( That I own, by the way) I think it is out of print but you can still pick up 2nd hand copies from ebay / amazon
Where this refers to KL042, just replace that with xAC V2
key fob.pdf (342.4 KB)
We would need to look at voltages, but this is pretty much what you would be doing.
Now that’s a new one!
Okay great so once I get the multimeter (might even buy a new fob since they’re cheaper and it’ll give me a backup if I fuck it up) I’ll be able to test where I’d need to solder the wires, and we can go from there.
Sounds like a plan
Not sure if a hijack or not, but has anyone adapter a keyed ignition to rfid?
Something like this, is likely what you are after!
Right, saw similar kits… just curious, do you just remove the entire mechanical interlock and key assembly?
Or maybe leave it all in place and semi permanently install your key?
On a basic level…Yes
Can do. But not necessary, even though the instruction suggest it.
Let me grab you the install instructions… That will explain it better
Give me a couple of minutes
BASIC Instructions ( If you need more details, just ask )
- Use multimeter/circuit tester / Workshop manual to identify ignition wire colours
- ( IF APPLICABLE remove transponder from key and “attach” to ignition security coil )
- Disconnect battery or ignition fuse
- Connect Easyguard according to wiring diagram
- Remove key barrel in replace with Push to start button ( Or as attached instructions suggest)
- Install RFID antenna in a suitable accessible location within the vehicle eg. Under the steering column, or behind footwell panel etc.
Reinstall the fuse
If you still want to lock your car you will need to carry your current access tool ( Key / Fob / Prox card )
Install an xAC V1 or 2 for door unlock ( and Lock ) that you will be able to enroll the same implant to
Which nicely loops us back to the start of this Thread
Legitimately might do this
But I’m thinking I might have a audio guy do more of my wiring
Added complication is I have a smaller car
(Ford Fiesta… legit love it)
Only lock and unlock button is in the middle of the dash, and not sure I wanna deal with that
Thinking an xAC in the side mirror
(Want to waterproof it somehow)
And the easy guard, think I’d leave the lock cylinder, that way it would be slightly easier to use if a significant other or friend needed to borrow
Has anyone done this yet?
Mild concern though that this would make the car easier to steal, and or mess with insurance
Given that you are fixing the immobilizer chip to the ignition, and leaving a key shank in the ignition
(Not that someone really wants to steal my small car)
If you are not comfortable, there is nothing wrong with that
They will likely still run to the Drivers door locking mechanism, so you don’t actually have to get to the switch.
You really only need the antenna in there, so if you can run it remotely inside you vehicle that will be ideal.
I wouldn’t and didn’t (I’ve since removed it as I am working on something else)
You can hand out key fobs that are enrolled as you would hand out physical keys…The bonus is, if they loose your fob they are cheaper than a key, it is cheaper , faster and easier to wipe all enrolled fobs and re-enroll new ones than it would be to rekey your doors and ignitions, plus you can do the fobs yourself.
Actually leaving the key in, would definitely make it easier to steal.
Can’t help you with that, but you could anonymously call the insurance company and ask about RFID security “UPGRADES” and how they would affect insurance.
What was a previously simple screwdriver bypass now requires some more specialised knowledge.
Although The immobiliser chip is another story, personally I would just leave it attached, but you could make it another step. ie. have your immoboliser chip “hidden” in the vehicle and have to place it in a recepticle(with immobiliser antenna) but that doesn’t sound very convenient ( another example of security vs convinence) Some other ways to achieve the same goal, but I’ll leave that up to you.
I guess if someone really wants to steal the car, they will. To me, having RFID installed in a car, would be about convenience and not so much in security.
Can I ask what country you’re in?
Reason I ask, around here as long as you make your payments the insurance doesn’t much care what you do to your car. However I had family who lived in Europe for awhile and they told me that you would have claims denied if ANY alteration was made to the car and not reported. So if you painted it a different color and then got into a wreck, too bad, they didn’t insure a blue car, the insurance is only for the original grey car.
Frankly this may have been because they were in a super high risk demographic, but it was explained to me as normal across the board there.
You may want to double check your policy with your agent, because most insurance companies anywhere in the world will deny claims of theft or break-in damage if any part of the vehicle’s built-in security, ignition, alarm, etc. is modified, disabled, or tampered with.