Haha, As I was reading, I thought, “Shit, he should have a grommet there”
Low and behold, It looks like we have a consensus
Hey, @Eriequiet I know you have deburred it, and there will be minimal chaffing, but you really should put a grommet in there
Ideally you would have already done it with this
So you have 3 options
maybe
I’m working on a gromet, problem is I can only drill so large of a hole, I might need to do some dremel work… already have some of those grommets, also had 3D printed a sleeve but that didn’t work
Also being a safe, cord abrasion is a bit less of a concern since it never moves and the cord is fixed, but it’s a valid point, I never planned to be done at this point, just eager to get it mostly together
As far as grounding, I have others telling me not to so that’s a back and forth
WTF? That’s basic electricity 101.
Let’s say that you have two scenarios, one with ground, one without. In both cases the line wire (black) somehow comes into contact with the safe metal.
Scenario one, the safe is grounded. You have a short brief unrestriced flow of juice from the line wire to the house ground. Almost immediately it overwhelms the fuse or breaker and the flow of electricalicity is cut off. You get a singe mark near the short, and have to reset the breaker or fuse, after fixing it, of course.
Scenario two, the safe is not grounded. The line wire energizes the safe’s structure.
A.) If it can find a path back to ground it’s likely through a poor connection that’s going to produce resistance. Resistance in an electrical circuit results in heat. Get enough heat and you have a fire.
B). If it cannot find a path back to ground, it will remain energized until such time as an unkowing person (you) touch the safe and provide an escape for the electricity back to ground. If you’re lucky you just piss yourself and learn some new swear words. If not, you’re relatives might have to give you your very first funeral.
Ground it.
I should also add, there are no, zilch, zero, nada… bad effects from using a ground. Unless something goes horribly wrong, you’ll never know it’s there. And if it does go wrong, you’ll be glad it is.
Friend is licensed commercial electrician,
Reached out to him since we are in disagreement
He said as long as as I install a grommet and all of my wire connections are covered I will be sufficiently safe, and said he personally wouldn’t bother with the ground
Also pointed out that grounding isn’t going to work well unless I also go thru the added hassle of electrically bonding all the components to one another
The safe door and safe body aren’t reliably connected, along with other items being partially isolated with plastic bearings etc
Spoke with a local safe and lock guy today, he echoed the previous statements, so I guess there where I am
Led Install tonight… might tie into ups… depends
@ODaily hopefully you aren’t mad at me or w/e
I was just initially going on what some of my non cyborg friends were saying,
You raised valid points
Asked 3rd party electrician and safe tech
They said don’t bother… so I don’t bother
At the end of the day, the choice is yours buddy.
We were just giving you best/better safe practices, you can do with this info as you wish.
Pretty Sure 
@Devilclarke was an electrician before his current electronics job
But he is UK 
based where electrical practices are… safer
eg.
Biggest, ugliest BUT safest (earthed and fused) plugs
You are right, im a sparky. Personally I would have only run DC into the safe but running AC I would ground and bond all metal I.e. remove some paint put an earth bond then a bond between door and rest of the safe.
One of my biggest worries is that if the electrics caused a fire:
A - guns are f’d
B - if ammo is stored there thats bad to (fire).
C - ammo could also cook off if exposed to high current electricity.
Probably worth installing something like a fire ball in the safe (automatic fire extinguisher) just in case.
Moving on,
Got the leds installed,
I had plans to use some Velcro ties that use that super small micro/cloth Velcro,
That stuff sticks to my safe interior very nicely
Assumed the sticky back wouldn’t work,
Bonus, the adhesive works great on this felt oddly enough
Installed into the ups, installed a PIR sensor, got all the leds where I like them, looks great , had enough to run a L extension over my handgun section, excellently lit
…and the leds won’t turn off
#%!
Stupid Chinese sensor, either bad out of the box, or designed stupidly that it won’t deactivate in lit conditions…
Have 2 similar but different ones coming, We’ll see what happens
Sounds really good and close to finishing.
Sounds like you need to climb inside and close the door to see if the LEDs turn off
How do you think I discovered the problem?
I still have 3 things For the safe that’s been on my back burner for a while
I need to add friction clutch to the turn bars
I want to add some one way bolts and a plate on the front to prevent a punch attack
I found that I can surprisingly get decent signal from a phone they the door if a cell phone is placed in a specific way
(that I did with my actual phone and didn’t realize and closed it in the safe… imagine my surprise when my gun safe started ringing)
I want to figure out if there’s a way to use the phones hardware as an alarm sensor, accelerometer + wifi
Just need an app
7 posts were merged into an existing topic: The anti:no_entry_sign:-derailment:railway_car: & thread:thread: hijacking:gun: thread:thread: 
I have just moved your question to the actual safe conversion thread.
HERE is the link to the first post
Might be starting a new related project
This is a electronic shotgun rack out of a cop car,
I’ve had this bouncing around my junk bin for a few years before I got into the implant stuff
Rigging a XACv2 to this might be fun
Thinking/planning that if in the near future we are able to get a house, most of my gun stuff will be relegated to a room elsewhere
The backup key mechanism is a handcuff key
, super duper secure… that’s going to need to be replaced or disabled
Thing that’s got me scratching my head is how to make it electronically “secure”
It’s just power in to the solonoid, so in theory a crafty kid it teenager could just apply power and pop it open
Yes I know that’s involved, but it’s possible enough I don’t like it
I think I might need to somehow mechanically cover/shield the wires
Add 6 more wires. Let 'em guess which ones do what.
-OR-
The xAC v2 has a normally open / closed relay.
Wire 1 goes to ground.
Wire 2 goes to relay. NO is =12v, and NC is ground.
That way if someone tries to hotwire it, then the 12v charge they apply will short direct to ground back through the relay instead of operating the release mechanism.
When the xAC operates normally, wire 2 is disconnected from ground and connected to 12v, causing the lock to open.
Use 2 for a tamper loop, bonus point if it can render the firearm unusable if tampered with (even if removed from the lock).
knew the lock was hot garbage, was planning to glue it shut quite frankly lol
Interesting… I tried the same magnetic attack, and nothing…
either way I cant secure what I want without putting in more effort buying a single rifle safe and adapting it to an Xacv2 same as before… why make it harder on myself…
like I said, I just found it in a random bin as I was going thru stuff, it was put in said random bin because I couldn’t come up with a good way to make it work standalone… figured RFID may have solved it… but I think its more hassle than its worth…
I may still build something out of it, but nothing I would trust leaving it unsupervised with kids
