BIG gun safe RFID conversion

Got power routed into the safe :slight_smile:
And no fires

I’ll post more pics later

Now I need to 3D print some clips to run the power cord nicely

Have some leds coming later this week, might run them off the same ups

So I got the power strip yesterday I ordered, my
Buddy used one similar and he simply desoldered and resoldered… mine however was crimped/spot welded so that wasn’t a great option anymore

Off to the store


Next came time to drill the hole, pretty easy stuff
Drilled a small (1/16” maybe?) pilot hole pretty quick
Drilled the larger 3/8” hole for cord
Counter drilled from inside with a 1/2” to debur and make room for some cable tube I might use
Debuted the hole a bit more by using a very small ultra fine dremel drum


Fished through the hole, saw the finish line got excited and ahead of myself, forgot to drill a hole and run cord through the interior panel that’s been off on the side

Doh

Pulled back apart, drilled interior panel hole,
Fished cord thru

Time to wire the plug


I found a nice location for the power strip vertically
(Keep debris from falling into in?)
Attached using some of that really intense semi permanent “Velcro” stuff

Used some cable tubing just to make the cord coming out of the door look nicer/more borg

The fact you ran mains power into an metal box without a grommet on the cable is giving me an aneurism. Please at least run on a RCD (GFCI) socket.

2 Likes

It is

You need a grommet, or at least glue it in place so it won’t chafe until one of the wires touches.

You also really need to find a way to connect the green wire (ground) to the safe’s metal. That way if it does chafe, or something goes wrong with any wiring or devices connected to it, it won’t kill you or burn your house down.

I know I’m harping on it, and you might never need it, but you really need to do this. It’s a risk, with a HUGE cost if…

3 Likes

Haha, As I was reading, I thought, “Shit, he should have a grommet there”
Low and behold, It looks like we have a consensus

Hey, @Eriequiet I know you have deburred it, and there will be minimal chaffing, but you really should put a grommet in there

Ideally you would have already done it with this
image
So you have 3 options

  • Rewire it an slip one on
  • Cut a slit in the grommet and slide it into place
  • Leave it as is and DIE :ghost: :skull_and_crossbones: maybe
    :wink:
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I’m working on a gromet, problem is I can only drill so large of a hole, I might need to do some dremel work… already have some of those grommets, also had 3D printed a sleeve but that didn’t work

Also being a safe, cord abrasion is a bit less of a concern since it never moves and the cord is fixed, but it’s a valid point, I never planned to be done at this point, just eager to get it mostly together

As far as grounding, I have others telling me not to so that’s a back and forth

WTF? That’s basic electricity 101.

Let’s say that you have two scenarios, one with ground, one without. In both cases the line wire (black) somehow comes into contact with the safe metal.

Scenario one, the safe is grounded. You have a short brief unrestriced flow of juice from the line wire to the house ground. Almost immediately it overwhelms the fuse or breaker and the flow of electricalicity is cut off. You get a singe mark near the short, and have to reset the breaker or fuse, after fixing it, of course.

Scenario two, the safe is not grounded. The line wire energizes the safe’s structure.

A.) If it can find a path back to ground it’s likely through a poor connection that’s going to produce resistance. Resistance in an electrical circuit results in heat. Get enough heat and you have a fire.

B). If it cannot find a path back to ground, it will remain energized until such time as an unkowing person (you) touch the safe and provide an escape for the electricity back to ground. If you’re lucky you just piss yourself and learn some new swear words. If not, you’re relatives might have to give you your very first funeral.

Ground it.

I should also add, there are no, zilch, zero, nada… bad effects from using a ground. Unless something goes horribly wrong, you’ll never know it’s there. And if it does go wrong, you’ll be glad it is.

Friend is licensed commercial electrician,
Reached out to him since we are in disagreement

He said as long as as I install a grommet and all of my wire connections are covered I will be sufficiently safe, and said he personally wouldn’t bother with the ground

Also pointed out that grounding isn’t going to work well unless I also go thru the added hassle of electrically bonding all the components to one another

The safe door and safe body aren’t reliably connected, along with other items being partially isolated with plastic bearings etc

1 Like

Spoke with a local safe and lock guy today, he echoed the previous statements, so I guess there where I am

Led Install tonight… might tie into ups… depends

@ODaily hopefully you aren’t mad at me or w/e
I was just initially going on what some of my non cyborg friends were saying,

You raised valid points

Asked 3rd party electrician and safe tech
They said don’t bother… so I don’t bother

At the end of the day, the choice is yours buddy.

We were just giving you best/better safe practices, you can do with this info as you wish.

Pretty Sure :man_shrugging: @Devilclarke was an electrician before his current electronics job

But he is UK :uk: based where electrical practices are… safer
eg.
Biggest, ugliest BUT safest (earthed and fused) plugs

You are right, im a :uk: sparky. Personally I would have only run DC into the safe but running AC I would ground and bond all metal I.e. remove some paint put an earth bond then a bond between door and rest of the safe.

One of my biggest worries is that if the electrics caused a fire:
A - guns are f’d
B - if ammo is stored there thats bad to (fire).
C - ammo could also cook off if exposed to high current electricity.

Probably worth installing something like a fire ball in the safe (automatic fire extinguisher) just in case.

1 Like

Moving on,
Got the leds installed,
I had plans to use some Velcro ties that use that super small micro/cloth Velcro,
That stuff sticks to my safe interior very nicely

Assumed the sticky back wouldn’t work,
Bonus, the adhesive works great on this felt oddly enough

Installed into the ups, installed a PIR sensor, got all the leds where I like them, looks great , had enough to run a L extension over my handgun section, excellently lit

…and the leds won’t turn off
#%!

Stupid Chinese sensor, either bad out of the box, or designed stupidly that it won’t deactivate in lit conditions…

Have 2 similar but different ones coming, We’ll see what happens

Sounds really good and close to finishing.

Sounds like you need to climb inside and close the door to see if the LEDs turn off :wink:

How do you think I discovered the problem?

3 Likes

I still have 3 things For the safe that’s been on my back burner for a while

I need to add friction clutch to the turn bars

I want to add some one way bolts and a plate on the front to prevent a punch attack

I found that I can surprisingly get decent signal from a phone they the door if a cell phone is placed in a specific way
(that I did with my actual phone and didn’t realize and closed it in the safe… imagine my surprise when my gun safe started ringing)

I want to figure out if there’s a way to use the phones hardware as an alarm sensor, accelerometer + wifi

Just need an app

7 posts were merged into an existing topic: The anti​:no_entry_sign:-derailment​:railway_car: & thread​:thread: hijacking​:gun: thread​:thread: :interrobang:

What brand of safe is that ? How awesome is that :heart_eyes:

I have just moved your question to the actual safe conversion thread.
HERE is the link to the first post