Maybe this should go in the anti derailment thread, maybe it should go in an existing thread, but god damnit maybe I just want my own thread!
I installed a LF RFID push to start system in my car a few months ago. I had it planned and kept putting it off, then my ignition cylinder died… It was cheaper to install a push to start system than to replace the lame mechanical cylinder and get it rekeyed.
That was nice, however, I still had to carry around a mechanical key. I like empty pockets, I tend to lose things, so I finally forced myself to actually install an xACv5 in my car for the doors! Thankfully, my car is old and doesn’t really have a proper alarm system, so that was one less thing to worry about.
Don’t know how much more I’ll share. Not a whole lot to either of the installs. I recorded some of the process, but mainly just for me to look back on when it inevitably breaks.
I’m guessing the system need to “sniff” for a tag all the time, how much power does this draw? And how long can you be parked without charging the battery?
I have an issue in my car that uses an old iButton system, that it constantly draws a lot of power, so after 2 weeks of not using the car I need to hook the car up to a charger.
The xACv5 datasheet says <30mA parasitic draw, and I think the push to start system was about the same. I didn’t test either, but I should since I’ve got a lot of aftermarket goodies in my car sipping power. The car is daily driven so not too much of an issue. I think the longest I’ve let it sit is one week while waiting for some clutch parts and it started up just fine after.
Some day I’ll get around to installing a bigger/aux battery (there’s room under the hood) and a solar panel.
It’s not much to see tbh. It’s factory installed for fleet management, and it beeps like a mf when you start the car.. Wondering if I should modify the next car (lease is running out soon) to a rfid based system instead. Guess my xmagic would work perfectly for this. And this post just made me thinking about how I could do it.
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