So I added a little NFC module that triggers the internal unlock button, but after a few hours the car disables the internal door lock buttons.
The car is a 2010 Mazda 6 and doesn’t seem to use a solenoid, it uses a door actuator motor and I can’t think of a way to manually trigger it with a relay.
I have an 09 Mazda 6. The physical key cylinder on the driver’s door is electronically operated. If you take the door panel off you’ll see the connector for the key in the upper left corner. It’ll be a good 8-12 connections. With a wire jump the different connections to ground until one unlocks the door(if you continue to jump the connection for a few seconds it will also lock the door interestingly enough) you can then use the xac as a “jumper wire” to unlock the door even when it’s been sitting for hours without a key fob or starting. You can extend the xac’s antenna the full length of the car door by splicing the insulated wire and adding more to it, it won’t affect scanning. I put the antenna in the mirror and I have zero issues with scanning. Its pretty easy to remove the whole mirror assembly to glue/tape the antenna inside.(remove the plastic trim with the tweeter on it and remove the bolts)
Then if you pull straight out on the mirror it will uclip from it’s assembly giving you access to screws to take it apart the rest of the way.
You just saved me so much time. I put the module inside the door panel itself, but I will keep that in mind if I want to extend it. I was curious if it would effect how it reads.
No problem at all! Let me know if you have any more questions I’m happy to help.
The car computer is making this decision. Can you integrate a car remote into the mix to unlock using the remote button instead of the internal door button?
In my personal experience with this specific model car(my current vehicle) the fobs batteries die very quickly(within 1-3 months). There’s always power to the door key switch though, you can lock, unlock, and roll up and down the windows with the door key. If the battery dies the key still works mechanically.
Something I have done on one of my builds previously is, install a DC-DC converter.
Very much overkill But I had one of these lying around
Picked up the 12V Always on and output to the remote to 3V, and the battery will never die.
@mfries18 solution seems to be working great. Haven’t gotten the time out issue so far.