I didn’t mention this in my post, but I have left the cylinder in the glove box (could be hidden further if you wanted)
with a screwdriver and 2 minutes you could put the Key cylinder back in…
Again something I considered and would agree it is a very feasible option.
In 2015, I was the first to propose this on Belgian television in Belgium.
I then ordered these from Amal on kickstart and if you watch the entire video you will also see that I had bought all kinds of smart locks to automate as much as possible for this time
Since I live in Belgium and that American locks (deadbolt) I also had to adjust my door.
Today I am walking with 2 FlexMT in my hands, 1 xEM and 1 xNT, paychip and 1 cassox double magnet in my arm
Of all the locks that were there then, the one on the front door remains, and I also ended up in the European smart locks from DOM.
@Pilgrimsmaster in Easy Guard Website, also in there AliExpress store , there are a few different Rfid systems. they have different price, product code, and in the product picture, the number pins is different.
But, i cant understand what make them different from one another.
There installation of this device includes tapping the wires behind and the pushbutton itself has tabs on it designed to go in and around the existing keylock cylinder and hold the button overtop of it like a cap.
If you chose to leave the ignition in, you would need to ensure the steering lock is disabled.
The easiest way, is not ideal, but you could cut a key short enough, turn the key until the steering lock is disengaged, and leave the key in the ingnition barrel. Just make sure it is short enought that sombody can’t simply turn the key to start, but long enough that you can remove the key when you, sell the car for example.
nice. my vw had the steering lock disabled by a local garage … he used a pin so it could be re-enabled easily. it makes sense though that you would normally have to remove the lock cylinder to disable the column lock.
also how is the transponder situation dealt with? in my van I am honestly considering just inserting the key, turning it to unlock the column, and breaking off the key inside the lock… then extracting the transponder and taping it to the underside of the start button so it’s being held in the right place but still hidden.
I’ve got one of these push to start buttons that’s been sitting in my car for a year now. Maybe necroing this thread will kick me my ass in gear to get it done!
iirc in the instructions that came with mine, it says there should be enough room to take apart the key and place the part with the buttons and transponder behind the push button to get around it.
Thanks for the awesome write up Pilgrim! Going to reference it during install. Much easier to understand than the instructions it came with lol
If you haven’t taken apart a key to see the transponder before, the transponders come in a couple of differrent forms.
The last one I did, looked VERY MUCH like an xEM / xHT
They are made with glass and sometimes glued in place so just be careful when removing it. Other transponders I have seen are solid plastic. So much easier to remove.
With one I did, I found the immobilizer antenna around the ignition, and I glued the chip (glass) perpendicular to it, this worked fine, but it did remove the Immobilizer functionality. ie. Always disabled
But
For just a few bucks, if you grab a bypass module like i linked to Amal, that powers on when you power the easy guard, so the Immobilizer functionality remains.
Don’t forget to bench test for range, as you probably saw in my video in the first post, you need to have almost contact with the antenna to get a read…for my one.
Yours may be different
I have done a few of these, so if you get stuck, just ask