NFC reader with Home Assistant

The pn7150 won’t work with the current software stack. Esp-home doesn’t have a library for it. That is why I stayed away from it. The 4 options mentioned above to have working libraries for esp-home. I’d love to see a working pn7150 in esp-home, but I’m just not sure what it takes to create new libraries into it.

They must be looking at the messages at least a little bit because the evolution v1 now has DWG files link

I’m impressed they actually added it

still no pinout of the other board, but hopefully it’s in the works?

If you are referring to option 2 then maybe we can skip that one because the range is less than the v4

I have option 1,3,4 on the board now. We can skip 2 (I assume the i2c pins are the same)

Perfect! I’m excited to see how it turns out! What would you think about making a LED ring part of the standard design and adjust the code so the light spins clockwise with each scan? An aesthetic piece to stand out from the other Home Assistant readers. It would be cool to put it where the antenna is but that would interfere with the range (not including the Evolution v1 since the antenna is massive). I am a huge fan of aesthetics but I understand it isn’t important so no need to alter the design for LED’s. Just a fun idea :slight_smile:

My idea was to make it as small as possible, that’s the only reason I haven’t added a bunch of stuff to the board. That was the idea behind the extra RGB headers. That way you can put the lights wherever you want (even on top of the ESP or the reader)

Here is the current design that works with most of the readers

You can also see that I moved the 12v system to the back of the board and moved the pads up so that it’s less likely to short (I had an issue with that)

On the back here you can see the LED bypass bridge. If you want to skip the onboard LED then you short this out and use the extra RGB headers. When I added the different readers I did have to make the board slightly wider to get them all to fit. The buzzer was also moved since it was going to be under a reader regardless. So now you can mount it on the back, or run wires and put a buzzer wherever you need it.

As a side project I might also make it fit a arduino pro micro so that you can use the board as a generic USB scanner that emulates a keyboard. But that might be a branch. I’m not sure how much this board should be a “Do it all” board. An arduino keyboard scanner could be made much smaller.

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Good call. I wasn’t thinking too much about size. How does one go about shorting the LED bridge? (Sorry I’m new to all of this) I like the idea of keeping this design simple and then creating a 2nd design with an arduino for the USB scanner. I’ll be happy with whatever you decide! You are doing an amazing job!

This is how they work. you just put a bit of solder connecting the 2 sides of the bridge.

Super easy!

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Just a heads up the V4 boards from ElectroHouse a significantly better than any other version (in my experience).

My V4 vs any of the countless knockoffs i have has double if not triple the range and is much better at coupling with x series


@W-rabbit - what lock are you using on your bedroom door. Is the reader custom?

The door lock is the METechs MID300 but I had to remove the front plastic piece to get it to read my NExT’s. The readers are built specifically for Home Assistant

New readers are in! Going to test with these then make the board match all of them. Then I’ll start making versions with different controllers.


Super excited!!

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I finally received the version 4 reader in the mail and slapped it together. The STLs at DTcommunityWIFIreader/Printables at main · benbeezy/DTcommunityWIFIreader · GitHub were too small for my board. I ended up drawing a new case to fit it. You can find the STL here if it helps any:

I’m really digging this! Good job.


@Ben_bionic What LED are you using for U2 on your board?


100 is a lot so I pulled mine off of another project I had around. Also ordering from Amazon would probably be cheaper.

You can also use the 3 pin headers in the corner to control a full light strip if you want to avoid soldering tiny things. I used a heat gun on the bottom of the board to reflow the LED because the pads behind on the bottom make it hard to solder.

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