My door is reinforced enough that I don’t think it will make much difference which way the bolt goes. Not going to work for every door, but I would think that most external doors are strong enough if installed properly.
Yes, I was pulling your leg. But more seriously, if you go to the trouble of modifying your door to charge up batteries from the mains wirelessly, just power the device directly, it’s just plain simpler.
Either you need batteries because you have no power source nearby or no way to modify the door cleanly (which is my case) or you don’t.
Yes, you could directly power the device mounted in the door by running a wire across the hinge side of the door and leaving room to flex, or you could rig some terminals that re-connect each time you close the door on the latch side. I don’t care much for either solution. The hinge side would be difficult to hide and may not look good and also subject wire to constant flexing and the latch side would create a wear item in the contacts. Using a wireless charger to charge batteries mounted in the door works for me. The batteries are only needed to keep the unit operational while the door is open, and they are re-charged whenever the door is shut. All that is assuming that an inductive charging system could be created small enough to fit in the door jamb, but it seems do-able to me.
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Do you even need that? I don’t know about you but I do not try to unlock my open door or lock it… 
I tend to close it first. Actually I need a magnet sensor to stop my door auto locking while it’s open.
Maybe. I don’t know enough about the planned electronics to know if that would be desirable or not. I’m talking about a door mounted system here. Mounting in the wall/jam removes all that.
Run the bit of wire that needs to flex parallel to the hinge: It’ll only twist a quarter turn at each door opening. Thin wire painted the same color as the door will be almost invisible. If you want it truly invisible, embed it in the door, make it exit right at the edge hinge-side, run it along the edge for a couple inches to let it twist freely, then into the jamb and into the wall. It’ll only be visible if you look for it, when the door is open.
Fun fact. Most houses have a door bell button on the external frame of the door, usually low voltage, just need a proper adapter. And if you live in a place like me some idiot before you cut the doorbell wires off flush on the outside and glued a wireless doorbell over the top. So, there’s already 2 wires in my door frame that aren’t used. I personally just need to tone them out to find the source, put a different power supply on the other side, then pull the little stubs of wire back inside the wall then to the door jamb through the small holes I suggested earlier (not saying it would be easy but it would be less work than pulling new wires). Put a couple springs with contacts on the end in the holes, then any time the door is shut, the latch contacts one spring, deadbolt on the other. Edit: I’m in the US and what I have said about the door bell wire location is typical here. Also, for long runs like that it’s usually low voltage ac, the old security system in my home runs on 24v ac for example.
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Hi, guys! When I started to read this topic I expected to find some solution at the end of 200 posts. But looks like have no any solution here was found for this pass six months, so I decided to build lock by myself. Now it already works, but I’m waiting for MOSFETs and Boost converter for effective powersave mode.This lock will be (probably) based at ESP32, RC522 as RFID reader, DRV8833 as motor driver and 3xAA battery as power source. 
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You weren’t kidding!
… more importantly than that… tell me about your mechanicals… it looks as if you gutted one kind of electronic lock and you’re changing out the electronics for your own stuff. Is that the case?
I’m living in China now and we have here a lot of diffrent electronic locks, but unfortunately I always have some “special requirements” 
All of locks which I tried has no support for my NTAG216, only M1 keys. I decided to replace PCB in existing lock, but for security reasons (I do not trust to untested DIY PCB 
) I want to have lock with possibility to open by key from inside and outside.
I checked a hundreds offers of diffrent locks and spare parts at Taobao.com and didn’t found anyone which I want to reassembly. So finally I coose this one (part?), which is same like my currently installed.
This lock is very similar to usual hotel locks, it have free moving doorhandle while lock in “closed” state. Internal motor can lock/unlock handle even from one AA battery (as I found). As bonus this lock have six microswitches, which can be used for lock state processing. ¥125 = $17.6
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no… right now we are just interested in getting our hands on a stamp or even a print of the mounting plates so we can verify pcb and motor mounting and DFM … i keep having short conversations with lock companies who basically want to work with us but not produce our stuff, they just want us to buy their lock with some firmware mods… but in all those cases, the locks are not ideally designed and they cannot or will not offer a lifespan commitment… so i’m back to wanting to produce our own stuff from scratch.
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Ok no probs, I will manufacture a few prototypes of the mounting plates from steel when I can then.
I was ideally waiting for the motor to get the mounting right first time but this is workable too.
Edit: will send one to you if that’s ok?
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I will happily accept PLA prints if they minimize shrinkage, but yes metal plates are ideal… but before shipping things let me look into the motor we sourced first and get at least one of those into your hands so you can check mounting.
I printed the external plate from PLA last night and here are the results.
Unfortunately because it is PLA it broke pretty easily at the point that the rods attach, but before that it fit pretty well.
I will make one out of metal ASAP and then send some more pics.
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Yesterday received 3D printed patrs and install first version of my lock. Already found some problems, modify drawing and reorder 3D printed parts. Now looks not very good but it already works 
Power consumption near 19uA in deep sleep mode (using internal ESP32 touch pins) or near 11uA with external capacitive touch button (blue pcb inside of green antennas pcb).
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Just thought I’d update on the one I’m building.
I 3D printed some parts of it in PET-G with some design modifications to allow easier manufacturing from metal.
Sorry this is taking so long, I am very busy with work and moving home at the moment, but I do intend to complete this project.
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I just wanted to thank all you makers, designers and electronics tinkerers 
that are working on this project. Thank you for keeping it going and actively working on this, I really do appreciate all the time and effort you’re putting in. 
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