Powering xac with battery

Can I directly attach my XAC v2 to my 12v motorcycle battery? Or do I need to have a fuse? If I do what size fuse is recommended? Thanks

You can, but shit happens, thus the highly reccomended fuse. I’d go with a 5 or 10 amp, either one is overkill. Unless you’re powering something else with it also.

Also, put a power switch. Motorcycle batteries are small, lower capacity… the xAC is not designed for battery powered applications.

Thanks guys. Im going to put a 0.25amp fuse on the input power for the XAC and im putting a switch on the ground wire :blush:

Do you mean it’ll drain the battery?

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Yes. Mine in standby killed the battery in 4 days.

Oh wow okay. I always assumed it was designed to be somewhat thrifty, being 12V-powered. Seems not. Good to know, thanks!

In defense of a small battery. It was also powering an arduino micro :woman_shrugging:t3:

I have to hook mine to an ammeter, see how much it uses exactly. I’ve yet to install it (or the xAC v1 I still have lying around) in my car.

Off the top of my head ( specs sheets not actually measured by myself )

The xAC V1= 11mA Idle 48mA Operating
The xAC V2= 60mA Idle 100mA Operating

So a significant difference, Turbo did measure the V1… standby, I’ll find the link

So not quite as quoted on Spec sheet, but still a difference

And from the V2 webpage

  • Draws 60mA idle, 102mA while relay is active

Thanks for the values.

I can see how that and a another similar constant load like the Arduino would deplete a small motorcycle battery. I’m no motorcycle expert, but from what I see on the internet, they range from 7 to 14 Ah. Even the big one discharged at a constant 100 mA would last under 6 days at the most - and would probably be unusable for turning the engine over much before that.

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yep… this is why I used the engine kill switch as a generic power switch for the reader and also in parallel a reed relay to act as the kill switch… so the function of the engine kill switch was extended to the reed relay and then also the switch was used to control power to the reader and latching relay array.

It’s good to know because, although I plan to install it in my car and the battery is larger, I also happen to drive it once every blue moon. So I’m pretty sure I’d find the battery flat each and every time without a switch. Hell, I already do every once in a while and there’s no load other than the sleeping onboard computer.

My poor VW GTI is now in that position as the family van has taken over duties. I have a clip on desulfator working it’s magic between drives.

This is where I think rigging a solar trickle charger to the system might overcome the draw, and help with standard loss of charge from time