Yep you hit it on the head the thing works i can’t knock it. It is a China special like most of the cheap car whatever (alarms, entry systems etc) but it works non the less super easy to install (on a bike at least) and could read my xEM through bike gloves (summer gloves as I never wore anything else).
As @Equipter said when you get it give it 12v enrol your implant and have a play.
Super quick reply to reiterate as has been said above.
I have personally put in an easy guard ( Actually in and out a few times…Currently out )
“Easy” to install, subjective of course, depending on you current [pun] knowledge, but definitely something that you could learn from zero.
To do your own testing, just connect to a 12V power-supply on the bench, and that will be all you need to enrol your implant.
Your NExT/ xEM comes from DT in EM mode and it will enrol easily into the easy guard.
Yes it is a cheap Chinese product, but it is actually quite robust and the components ( visually ) look good.
Reliable.
I would compare it to the Blue Cloner, cheap and simple and does what it says on the box. but the bonus is the EasyGuard doesn’t put a pincode on your implant
I don’t have a bench power supply but I have an extra PC power supply if I could use the 12v line on that?
I got some quotes and it looks like I could get it installed for $110 but I’ll think about learning how to install it myself…
If this works well I may have to figure out how to make a keyless door unlock system with the xEM so that I can go totally keyless/fobless. 
That should be easy also, and if you learnt to do both of them yourself, you would have a good grounding [pun] on some basic DC electrical systems.
I tried a little while ago to use the EasyGuard to do both ( unlock and start ) I haven’t yet managed to do that.
I don’t actually lock my car so I am not too bothered, but my easy guard is on my bench to carry on with that, “when I get around to it”
The idea for me was to have one system to do both functions, to save on idle current draw
( WARNING
I am about to go on a slight tangent waffle here.
Pre-Covid I would travel a lot for long periods of time and didn’t want to come back to a flat battery, although I would put in a Low Voltage Cut Out, and have a key stashed, I may end up putting in an xAC just with a momentary or capacitive touch switch to “press” when I scan to unlock and run it on a separate battery with a VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay and another LVCO and the “logical” system to piggy-back off is the EasyGuard, because it comes with push-button and it has decent sized relays on the board… anyway I digress )
Sorry about that jumble of thoughts 
Whatever you decide, there will be people on here to help you out
I’m very tempted to do the install myself for this reason (and I’ll be more familiar with the wiring if I decide to install an xAC door unlock). I’ll check out the instructions that it comes with and I’ll make a decision tomorrow.
I just have pushback from my family because they say it’ll be more expensive to fix the car if I do something wrong than if I just paid to have it installed. It’s my car though so I get the final say.
Hmm, can’t say I really understand the instructions much but it might be the broken english. I found a few YouTube videos that show how to install it so I’ll use those.
What’s washing mode? 
Umm, yeah, I think…Ahhhhh.
Guessing “Wiping mode” ??? ( Delete all enrolled tags )
Welp, luckily I didn’t start messing with the wiring because I realized my car’s anti-theft system requires the OEM key to start. I’ll have to get a bypass module.
I just wish I had a 12v power supply so I could at least test out the Easyguard out of my car.
hop by a parts store or ebay and get a 2nd hand pc power supply
I have an old pc power supply. Would I just cut one of the 12v wires (and ground) from the pc power supply and wire it to the Easyguard? Sorry for the dumb questions but I don’t want to risk blowing something up 
(please dont take my word as truth im still learning and prone to bad advice)
if it provides 12v of power it should be fine as far as i know
all it needs is power to enrol the tag
That’s good advice. The power supply is set up to supply a lot of juice, so you would want to avoid any short circuits, but if you hook up the wires correctly the easy guard should only take what it needs. I wouldn’t recommend opening up the casing of a PC power supply unless you know what you’re doing. It’s pretty easy to accidentally short the mains power to the metal casing with a dropped screw or something, and the capacitors stay live for a couple minutes after the cord has been unplugged.
If you want to do it then there are plenty of guides but long story short in the biggest connector (mother board connector) there will be a green wire that needs to be connected to a black wire for the power supply to turn on.
The yellow wires are 12v and black wires are ground. Connect them to the easy guard to supply power making sure that no other wires are touching. You should only need the power connected and the antenna.
It worked! I just stripped away some insulation from the power and ground wires on the Easyguard and shoved them into 12v and ground on a molex connector.
I was able to register my hand. It seems like it has 2-3mm of range as long as I’m in the perfect spot. I was planning on putting the antenna inside the driver side door next to the handle. I’m hoping it has enough range to read through the plastic door panel.
Great stuff and well done 
Worth a try
If it does work I’ll probably try and put a sticker to mark the sweet spot. I’m not sure how amused my passengers will be if I take too long rubbing my hand all over my car door…
“what? you have to pet it to get it in the mood before a drive…”
woohoo hell yea bud nice going!
now that you know it will work and will enroll your tag you should be fine to have it anywhere with a plastic in front of it as long as its not too thick,
cant wait to hear about the progress!
Awesome great news!