Have any of you tried any of the RFID keyless car start systems (like this)? It looks like scanning the RFID tag disarms the engine lock and then you’re able to use a button to start the car.
It says it uses 125khz tags so I’d just have to check if it’s something the T5577 could emulate.
I’m itching to use my NeXT for something and these look interesting… It seems like it would be a pretty cool (and affordable) car upgrade to use with our implants if the system works well.
This response from the seller leads me to believe you’ll be just fine to enroll the NExT assuming you can get a read from the antenna.
That’s how I found out the tags were 125KHz. I’m still pretty new to all this RFID stuff and I know that 13.56MHz tags can be hit or miss with the NeXT since there are different types of chips so I wasn’t sure if 125KHz tags were just as complicated.
just don’t believe them when they say “any 125khz tag is ok”… that’s like saying “any tires are ok for your car” when clearly there are different sizes and treads and some have metal spikes for snow and on and on… the same is true with RFID… the frequency is the first major requirement, but there are a shitload of 125khz tags that will definitely not work with this thing. They are saying this because basically EM41xx tags are by far the most common… so common that they are basically the defacto standard chip type in the 125khz family of tags… but yeah, not at all the same thing as saying “any 125khz tag” will work… it’s just wrong.
Easyguard stuff works with the EM, used it on my motorbike years ago. It even uses the EM4100 id.
Good to know! It should be here tomorrow but I know nothing about car wiring so I’ll have to pay someone to install it. I’m hoping I can figure out how to test the antenna by itself before installing the system to make sure it will couple fine with my NeXT.
(don’t take my word as gospel I’m still very new to this) you could when you receive it find a way to supply it with the same power it would receive from your cars battery (presuming it will be wired into the battery) and give it some swipes with ur chip to see If it takes it :}
My bad! I totally overlooked that! Since you’ve used Easyguard stuff before, can I ask how you liked it?
It seems to get decent enough reviews but the price seems low to me and it looks like it’s a Chinese dropship item so the quality kind of concerns me.
Yep you hit it on the head the thing works i can’t knock it. It is a China special like most of the cheap car whatever (alarms, entry systems etc) but it works non the less super easy to install (on a bike at least) and could read my xEM through bike gloves (summer gloves as I never wore anything else).
As @Equipter said when you get it give it 12v enrol your implant and have a play.
Super quick reply to reiterate as has been said above.
I have personally put in an easy guard ( Actually in and out a few times…Currently out )
“Easy” to install, subjective of course, depending on you current [pun] knowledge, but definitely something that you could learn from zero.
To do your own testing, just connect to a 12V power-supply on the bench, and that will be all you need to enrol your implant.
Your NExT/ xEM comes from DT in EM mode and it will enrol easily into the easy guard.
Yes it is a cheap Chinese product, but it is actually quite robust and the components ( visually ) look good.
Reliable.
I would compare it to the Blue Cloner, cheap and simple and does what it says on the box. but the bonus is the EasyGuard doesn’t put a pincode on your implant
I don’t have a bench power supply but I have an extra PC power supply if I could use the 12v line on that?
I got some quotes and it looks like I could get it installed for $110 but I’ll think about learning how to install it myself…
If this works well I may have to figure out how to make a keyless door unlock system with the xEM so that I can go totally keyless/fobless. 
That should be easy also, and if you learnt to do both of them yourself, you would have a good grounding [pun] on some basic DC electrical systems.
I tried a little while ago to use the EasyGuard to do both ( unlock and start ) I haven’t yet managed to do that.
I don’t actually lock my car so I am not too bothered, but my easy guard is on my bench to carry on with that, “when I get around to it”
The idea for me was to have one system to do both functions, to save on idle current draw
( WARNING
I am about to go on a slight tangent waffle here.
Pre-Covid I would travel a lot for long periods of time and didn’t want to come back to a flat battery, although I would put in a Low Voltage Cut Out, and have a key stashed, I may end up putting in an xAC just with a momentary or capacitive touch switch to “press” when I scan to unlock and run it on a separate battery with a VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay and another LVCO and the “logical” system to piggy-back off is the EasyGuard, because it comes with push-button and it has decent sized relays on the board… anyway I digress )
Sorry about that jumble of thoughts 
Whatever you decide, there will be people on here to help you out
I’m very tempted to do the install myself for this reason (and I’ll be more familiar with the wiring if I decide to install an xAC door unlock). I’ll check out the instructions that it comes with and I’ll make a decision tomorrow.
I just have pushback from my family because they say it’ll be more expensive to fix the car if I do something wrong than if I just paid to have it installed. It’s my car though so I get the final say.
Hmm, can’t say I really understand the instructions much but it might be the broken english. I found a few YouTube videos that show how to install it so I’ll use those.
What’s washing mode? 
Umm, yeah, I think…Ahhhhh.
Guessing “Wiping mode” ??? ( Delete all enrolled tags )
Welp, luckily I didn’t start messing with the wiring because I realized my car’s anti-theft system requires the OEM key to start. I’ll have to get a bypass module.
I just wish I had a 12v power supply so I could at least test out the Easyguard out of my car.
hop by a parts store or ebay and get a 2nd hand pc power supply
I have an old pc power supply. Would I just cut one of the 12v wires (and ground) from the pc power supply and wire it to the Easyguard? Sorry for the dumb questions but I don’t want to risk blowing something up 
