(please dont take my word as truth im still learning and prone to bad advice)
if it provides 12v of power it should be fine as far as i know
all it needs is power to enrol the tag
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That’s good advice. The power supply is set up to supply a lot of juice, so you would want to avoid any short circuits, but if you hook up the wires correctly the easy guard should only take what it needs. I wouldn’t recommend opening up the casing of a PC power supply unless you know what you’re doing. It’s pretty easy to accidentally short the mains power to the metal casing with a dropped screw or something, and the capacitors stay live for a couple minutes after the cord has been unplugged.
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If you want to do it then there are plenty of guides but long story short in the biggest connector (mother board connector) there will be a green wire that needs to be connected to a black wire for the power supply to turn on.
The yellow wires are 12v and black wires are ground. Connect them to the easy guard to supply power making sure that no other wires are touching. You should only need the power connected and the antenna.
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It worked! I just stripped away some insulation from the power and ground wires on the Easyguard and shoved them into 12v and ground on a molex connector.
I was able to register my hand. It seems like it has 2-3mm of range as long as I’m in the perfect spot. I was planning on putting the antenna inside the driver side door next to the handle. I’m hoping it has enough range to read through the plastic door panel.
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Great stuff and well done 
Worth a try
If it does work I’ll probably try and put a sticker to mark the sweet spot. I’m not sure how amused my passengers will be if I take too long rubbing my hand all over my car door…
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“what? you have to pet it to get it in the mood before a drive…”
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woohoo hell yea bud nice going!
now that you know it will work and will enroll your tag you should be fine to have it anywhere with a plastic in front of it as long as its not too thick,
cant wait to hear about the progress!
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Awesome great news!
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You might think about keeping that power supply on a more permanent setup.
You can either buy a (cheap) little adapter off of ebay / amazon that will plug into the connector to give easy access points, and ground that green wire for you.
Or, you can permanently mod the case yourself. Depends on you comfort level. If you open it up, you should be ok, just be safe minded…
Either way, you might find this interesting.
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So I took the door panel off my car and put the antenna inside it on the thinnest and least curved part. I was able to get it to read through the panel in very specific spots but it’s definitely something I’d have to practice doing in order to get quick reads.
One thing I’ve been thinking about was using a custom antenna… I bought some ferrite rod and enamel wire to create a custom antenna for my Proxmark3 Easy and I should have enough materials to create 2. Would an antenna that gives good tuning stats on the Proxmark3 (hw tune) work just as well if I wire it to the Easyguard? I’ve never created an antenna before so I’m not sure if an antenna works on every device or if the tuning would be different on another device?
Not necessarily as it is a tank circuit (inductor and capacitor) your winding the inductor for whatever capacitor is on the proxmark which won’t be the same (Murphy said so) on the xAC
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Yeah. I actually used this exact unit, and it works fairly well. I have a 2009 santa fe, (suv) and it ended up working a little better than I expected. I’ll walk through the build for anyone interested.
I bought the Easyguard ec004 keyless kit from amazon. Basically it uses a short range antenna to verify the RFID tag, then once the brake is pressed, the button is used to start the car. The kit works perfectly but has very little documentation, so I struggled to add my implant once I got it. As long as you can identify your hot wires, your starter wire, and your ACC wires the kit is a piece of cake. I used the webforum 12volt to find the right wiring diagram.
The next problem was finding a way to unlock my car doors with the tag. I ended up using the RFID scanner that Dangerous things sells, and wired that into the door. Because of science, the antenna can’t really be inside the metal door skin, so if your car door is metal you need to find some way to put it outside the door, or behind a non conductive surface thin enough for the signal to reach the implant. Bear in mind the implant has a shorter range than most normal tags, and nearly direct contact is required for a reliable connection. I ended up buying a Dorman handle, same exact shape and dimensions, after a few failed attempts to 3d print something I could use. The problem for me was, I live in fl, so even the high temp abs, got soft and melty once it was on the car, making it useless. I put the antenna over the outside of the handle, and traced the outline, then spent ~6 hrs cutting and shaping a groove into the handle that the antenna fit into. Once the antenna was below the level of the outside surface, I drilled a hole, next to the support hook on the handle, and fed the power lines for the antenna through there. I filled the slot with epoxy, let it set, then sanded to flush and smooth, about 2 or 3 times to make sure it was watertight and perfectly flush.
I pulled apart the door on my car, used power from the hazard light on the bottom, and wired the relay into the lock, using the same leads that let you unlock the whole car with the key, to act as my unlock system. I then pulled the door sensor, (the open/closed one) out, so it was disconnected so I could power the RFID scanner. The scanner then got put into a little 3d printed box, that I waterproofed, then ziptied and taped to the inside of the armrest on the door. door went back together, and everything was rigorously tested for about 2 months with a standard rfid tag.
I then ordered and implanted myself with the 125khz xEM tag (do not recommend, have somebody else do it, or a pro) and set about programming the car with my implant as an authorized user. The door was simple enough, I used the add tag, (part of the set up process) and just added my implant. The Easyguard was not so easy. The lack of documentation on the ec004 means it is very difficult to figure out how to add my chip. After much googling and searching I found a little post on amazon by the seller, which ended up being incorrect. The right way to do it, was to open the little box the starter was in, and find the little white button. Scan an authorized chip or key like would normally be used to start the car, then press the little button twice, and hold for a third press. Hold until the box chirps 3 times, then scan your implant on the RFID scanner for the car. The box will chirp once, you then can release the button, and put your car back together.
This is what worked for me, in my car. I can’t guarantee it will work for yours. For a starter, you will almost definitely need to find a different way to power it. The best method is likely to find a live wire in the dash or fusebox, and use that to power your door unlocking system. I have not had any problems with the scanner killing my battery, due to the incredibly small power draw. By my rough calculations, your average car batter should be able to power that chip for about 600-800 hrs. With the chip and the rest of your car, you only lose about 10 mins of battery from however long you can normally go without starting it. Obviously newer cars with a high passive power draw will last much shorter times than a older car from pre 2000s.
Good luck Hardware hacking
I’d love to answer any further questions
N8
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They must have improved the contents that come with the Easyguard ec004 because mine came with a decent manual that explains the required wiring and how to add new RFID tags (I’ve already added my NeXT).
This is my first car mod so I didn’t realize how many things would need to be bypassed on my car (2014 Honda CRV) to get the starter installed. I think I found a way to bypass the engine lock (the engine won’t start without the factory programmed key fob), but now I have to deal with the steering wheel lock.
The steering wheel only unlocks if the key is in the ignition and clicked over at least one position. I did some research and it looks like people are saying to cut up a spare key and place it in the ignition and click it over to disable the steering lock (it would look like this). This seems really dumb because you’re basically providing a robber a key to steal your car (since the engine lock will be disabled as well)… It sounds like removing the ignition cylinder may also disable the steering lock so I’ll probably go that route if it works.
One thing I’m not totally clear on is if the Easyguard ec004 (the RFID scanner) will be powered when the car is completely off (key not in the ignition)? I’m assuming it will since it’ll be connected to the 12v wire, but I’ve also read things that lead me to believe the ignition switch has to be in the ACC position to power it?
I couldn’t find the wiring diagram for the ignition/alarm of my car on 12volt but I did find this diagram which I’m hoping is all correct. I have a multimeter so I’ll probably verify the wiring myself.
Hi N8,
and welcome to the forums.
Great first post and info sharing.
Glad to have you here.
Here, have one of these
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Yes it will, and for what it’s worth,that is the same route I took.
Yeah, it needs to be, so the antenna can “look” for your NExT.
The door lock 
though, with the xAC for example, you could have a switch or sensor to only power on when you want to unlock.
What you did find is still a really good start, now you can use that to just confirm things, rather than having to find it from scratch
I’m am stoked you are attempting this yourself, and do keep asking questions if you get stuck, there will be somebody here that will be able to help you out, including, by the sounds of it, our new @shittycarmods
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Maybe this is a dumb question but would I be able to use my normal car keys (if I left the ignition cylinder in) while the RFID starter is wired in? The YouTube video that I watched on installing the Easyguard just said to t-splice the starter wires into the car’s wiring so the normal key ignition will still be wired in.
Theres still the mechanical lock on the steering column that keeps you from being able to turn the wheel I believe, unless you deactivate that somehow
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Not at all, as @Eriequiet said, there would still be a mechanical lock, you could think of it as 2FA, scan -turn key to disengage steering lock - push to start.
but not really practical.
Depending on why you wanted keys also, you could instead lend out fobs to others rather than keys.
I think if you were going to carry keys, you might as well not bother with the Push to start and maybe just use xAC for unlocking door 
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I still plan on removing the ignition cylinder to disable the steering lock. The only reason I asked was in case the RFID starter stopped working for some reason. If the key will still work with the ignition cylinder (alongside the starter still being wired in) then at least I know I can just pop in the ignition cylinder quickly and be on my way even if something goes wrong with the RFID starter. I definitely agree that there’s not much of a point in the keyless start if I still need a key (which is why I was hoping removing the ignition cylinder would disable the steering lock).
I think I have everything figured out that I was wanting to know before installing it (engine lock, steering lock, wiring, possible antenna location) so I think I’ll give it a go this weekend when I’m off.
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