RFID Keyless Car Start Systems?

Yes and no. For most cars, when you remove the ignition cylinder, the car is in ACC2/ACC1. This being said, yes you can remove the ignition cylinder and yes you can use it to turn the car back on. I have a bad habit of leaving my interior light on in my car, and killing the battery(this predicates my adventures with modifying my car) so I keep the old keyed cylinder in my glove box and I still have the keyhole on the door. I ended up mounting the push button in the hole where the old key used to go. Oh, and remember to disconnect the wire brick from the back of the old ignition cylinder. This will prevent anyone from just reaching in and turning it to start the car, and will also prevent the car from staying on in ACC2/ACC1
As far as power goes, @Pilgrimsmaster is right, you need to provide power to what ever scanner you are using to unlock the car. I like the xAC, simple cheap, and designed to work with your implant already. Even better, if you use heavily insulated wires, I found you can lengthen the connecting cable on the antenna on the xAC without messing with the signal to a point. I added about 1ft, and it functioned fine, but maintain a heavy insulation to minimize interference. TBH only modify the antenna as a last resort as you can ruin it.
I powered my module of a hazard light in the door, and my disable switch is the door shut switch. (modified so it needs manual activation/deactivation) I had a few days of though into choosing to use this as a power source. First, you can really use almost any 12v power supply as long as there is nothing else on that specific circuit that will cause high power draw. This is unlikely to be a problem, cars are very good when it comes to that sort of problem. You want to choose a power source, where in the worst case, if you fry it while driving, you will be fine. For this reason try to stay away from important car functions such as lights, brake lights, turn signals, fuel pump, ect. Your power source should always have power regardless of the car being on or off. Dome lights are a good choice, they always have power, and if the dome light dies, you can still drive safely. A number of people have figured out how to rewire their 12v ac outlet to an always on state, that would also be a good choice.
Tips for not regretting this awesome choice. Make sure the car can function normally with your power draw.(some newer cars wont let you lock the car if your door is open, or if they detect a power draw that shouldn’t be there) You car being 2014, you should be fine. Test your set up thoroughly, IE set off the alarm, try unlocking it a few dozen times, different set ups like sunroof open, trunk open, ect. Finally, leave a way to unlock it manually, and keep a manual key on you for a few weeks, just in case. I eventually plan on getting a little lockbox for a manual key, and welding it to the underside of the car, for the horrible eventuality when your car dies. As far as jumpstarting goes, the Easyguard handles it fine.

Good luck

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Also on a slightly odd note, has anyone though of wiring the Easyguard button as a console standard button instead of the one that comes with the kit? IE a climate control button that never gets used. Then deleting the stock keyhole, so it looks like there is no way to start the car?


Thanks for mentioning that! That was something that I was wondering (if I should keep the ignition wires plugged in) but forgot to ask.

I’ll probably wait a while before implementing the xAC lock/unlock in the doors but at least I have the great info that you guys have given me when I am ready. I’ll probably need a few months to recover from the stress of installing the Easyguard! :laughing:

Edit: One last question. I’ll disconnect the car battery when splicing the wires together, but how easy is it for me to kill myself (or fry something in the car) when testing the wires (with a multimeter) if I somehow accidentally touched the metal of the wires with my hand (not likely to happen, but…)? Do any of the wires that I’ll be messing with have enough voltage and/or amperage to do any damage?

Everything should be 12v dc I think, should be pretty hard to injure yourself significantly… though a shock might smart

As far as damage, I have avoided messing with vehicle computer stuff, I think in some regards they are designed to be robust so they don’t constantly have issues, but typically small delicate components don’t like being over loaded

I’m neither an electrician nor a vehicle technician, just some dude who has a robot hand

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Unless you plan on stabbing yourself in your hands, and running current through your heart you should be fine. The worst you can really do is blow a fuse if you short a hot wire directly to the frame. Fuses are really easy to swap, and I’m pretty sure your car has 4 spares in the fuse box for on the go repairs. If your hands are wet you can shock yourself, but it’ll be like liking a 9v battery. As far as your implant goes, that will be fine as well if you shock yourself with that low a voltage. The fuse box will prevent currents exceeding the fuse’s wattage capacity so you won’t find anything that can handle more than 600 watts. For the doors wiring, I am fairly sure the fuse is 10 amps, so 120-140 watts max. You’ll be fine/.
Good luck

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Well, I have stabbed myself in the hand before which is why I’m here :grin:

but I don’t plan on doing that…

It’s good to know that I shouldn’t be able to do any major harm to myself. That’s one of the things that makes me nervous about messing with any wiring (due to my lack of knowledge on electricity).

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Today’s the day! I hope I don’t mess up my car :grimacing:

Amal posted some pretty cool videos the other day on YouTube and I think their info will help me get consistent reads through my car door (if I place the antenna within the door panel). I was testing out the info in this video last night with the 125kHz field detector and a bare T5577+antenna and was able to get the same results as the video.

What I’m thinking is I’ll put the main Easyguard antenna within the door and a 125kHz RFID sticker on the outside (above the Easyguard antenna). That way I’ll be able to visually line my NeXT up with the sticker’s antenna, while also getting a few extra millimeters of range that should make the Easyguard reads more consistent through the door panel.

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Uhhh… I can’t figure out how to get the driver’s side lower dash off on my CR-V model (2014). Off to see if the CR-V forum can give me instructions on how to do that…

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Would this help?


the power of Google is strong with this one

Nah, that’s what I was originally using but it’s for an older model of CR-V and the screws aren’t in the same place (I don’t even see any screws on my car).

I guess I should have mentioned that I was using that. I should have figured you guys would try and look it up to help :sweat_smile:

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Grab yourself a Haynes manual

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I figured it out! I saw that the newer CR-V models had panels that just popped out so I put a little bit more force on mine and the panels popped out! I’m just trying to be careful so I don’t damage anything.

I may wait until next week to finish the install because it’s hot outside now.

EDIT: I took the lower dash panel and the steering wheel column cover off but it was too hot so I put them back on. I’ll just consider it practice and do the install next week.

It would be awesome to install this on my car in addition to the door locks, but my car is a diesel, so i’m wondering how the unit works.
It I press the button without pressing the brake, will I enter the On mode? Then press brake and the button it’ll start?

With the need to pre heat the glow-plugs on the diesel I need to be able to enter this stage before crancing the engine :stuck_out_tongue:
Any input @shittycarmods?

Ps. @Devilclarke you have a pm from me :slightly_smiling_face:

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Hopefully these might help. If you need any other instructions or resources let me know.

EDIT: I thought I should specify for clarity. I have access to the internal network for both Honda and Acura and can provide it for you.

Instructions taken from Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Removal for 2014 CR-V



I’m not sure how much help I can be here. I have never owned a diesel, and thus have a limited understanding of how they work. Pilgrimsmaster is right. If you scan your tag, you can enter ON mode, AKA ACC1/ACC2. On my car, pressing the brake, then the ON button starts the car, pressing the button without the brake will put it into acc mode, a second press will put the car into on mode. If you are going for convince, you may want to look at either a system designed for a diesel, or look at wiring a 3-5 sec timer delay switch. According to our friend the seller, you should be able to find a part on Amazon that will work for your needs.
What’s the starting process for your diesel, and how long do these “glowy plug thingys” need to reach starting tempertures? I would encourage you to at least try to get it working, and tell us how it goes…
Good luck

Startup preceduren7s simple, just turn the key to on (the notch before you crank the engine) wait 5 seconds, then crank.

On second thought, do I have to scan and press the button at the same time, or is there sort of a timer allowing you to scan then you have to push the button within X seconds?

Without the timer module I see two possibilities;

  1. Scan chip and set ignittion to on. wait 5 seconds, press the brakes and push button to crank.

  2. Scan chip and set ignition to on. Wait 5 seconds, scan chip, press the brakes and push button to start.

If it works like in scenario 1, then I don’t need the timer, but if it’s like in 2 then it’s unconvinient :stuck_out_tongue:
Same if scanning and pushing need’s to be done simultaneously too :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m at work far up north in the barents sea until 20th of October, so you tubing it is not an option either as bandwidth is shit and we often loose all signal, thus all the questions🤣

Okay, I got impatient and ordered 2 new key fobs and the easyguard as well :stuck_out_tongue: it’ll take some weeks in the mail anyway :joy:

Without highjacking the thread I think I’ll be going to do a switch on the “ACC” and “ignition ON” .
This will make it so that I just press one time to let the car heat the glow plugs, and if I need just the ACC it’ll be another push with the button.
It’ll be the most convinient solution for me :slightly_smiling_face:

Edit: wierd phrasing on original post

Ok, you should be able to get away with a timer delay switch.

And yes to the second. The system has 2 modes, “armed” and “disarmed” which to be honest is a little optimistic. In armed mode, the system will not respond and will not start. In disarmed mode the car will allow you to start, and use ACC1/2 and ON mode.
To enter disarmed mode, you scan your tag. You then have about 30 secs to start the car, or activate one of the above modes. Once you have powered the car down, the car will either wait 30 secs to enter armed mode or you can manually enter it by scanning your tag.
Kudos on the idea of switching ON mode and ACC, hopefully that works. It sounds like a clean solution to that kind of problem.
good luck

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