Slix2 UID changeable

Hi All,

I’m looking to clone a key for my snowmobile. I know it’s possible, as there is a service that does so: Dooplicator.com

I have scanned a key that I got from them, and find that it is a SLIX2 tag with a 16 digit UID.

I want to find a small tag that I can clone to, I would prefer a glass ampule for it’s form factor, but a small disc could work also (smaller than 25 mm diameter).

Can anyone point me toward a product that could work for this use? I’ve got a Dangerous things Proxmark with which to write the tag.

Thx!
J

I think this should be compatiable BUT it only has an 8byte ID

But, what you should maybe research, rather than copying your current key, is enrolling a new one.

The xSLX has good range for a glassie, but through gloves you may struggle.

To improve this, you chance of a getting good reliable reads, there are 2 things I can suggest, an RSP to increase the read range or, if I drop a @tac0s here, he may know if there is a FlexSLX version available

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16 digit (character) == 8 bytes

the xSLX doesn’t have a changeable UID tho

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Thanks for the replies. I think I may have misled with my 16 digit UID comment, I think it is 8 bytes, but hex, so looks similar to this: AA 78 0 1 CC 33 C3 3C - so I think that one should work.

I would love to just enroll a new one, however, since I don’t have access to the proprietary software to do that. So I was going to try to clone what I have, to accomplish the same thing - have a spare key to my Ski Doo snowmobile. The difficulty with reprogramming for a new key is that you have to have the dealer software.

I’m not actually planning to implant, this will be built into a 3d printed clip that goes on the post that contains the antenna, so the range won’t be a problem. The reason I wanted a glass one was for the form factor, a small diameter capsule shape would work well for me. The reason I’m asking here is because I got a Dangerous things Proxmark due to the relative simplicity of use compared to the more barebones ones available cheaper thru aliexpress and the like. So it’s more a general NFC question vs a biohacking specific one.

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you can buy uid changeable SLIX cards, the implant can’t do it so if UID is a must have that’s the way to go.

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To add onto @Equipter’s point with UID-changeable cards, if you can only get a card and not something smaller, I know a guy that can probably toss the chip from the card onto a small antenna (Amal).

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Changeable UID is a must for this project.

credit card form factor isn’t going to work here.

I know that they exist in smaller form, as I had one made, copied from my original key. It was built into a small cylindrical unit, outside diameter of the finished product was 25mm, so I expect it may have been an 18mm or so disc.

Haha, yep, oops…that makes more sense

Yeah, I was hoping he could enroll it into his snowmobile.

Cunts…

All good, and its an interesting project.

Is your current key, a key card?

If so, you could acetone melt it, and change the form factor into something smaller or bespoke to fit a space

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Current key is not a card, is a plastic knob that snaps onto a post with a ball at the end, it also functions as a safety tether, worn on a leash, if you fall off the machine, it kills the engine. That function is activated by a hall effect sensor and a magnet in the key.

whoa! can you post a video of this? seems… interesting.

I am not at the location where the machine is currently so can’t do a video or my own pics, but here are some pics that might clarify - they are from the following forum post, none of this work is mine, just what I found that has been most helpful so far:
https://www.dootalk.com/threads/rf-dess-key-frequency-and-its-magnetic.1499658/

An interesting feature is that any magnet will let you start the engine, but unless it detects a valid key, it will not rev up enough to move. So at the point in time when the engine starts, it checks the key validity, and that determines if it will operate normally, I don’t think the NFC key is accessed except right at the startup. After that, if the magnet goes away, the engine stops, and the process starts over next time you start the engine.

The antenna circuit board: (the Hall effect sensor is the tall part, goes up inside the post the key snaps onto)

The circuit board:

The key (upper Right in pic) snapped onto the post:

And here is a pic of the factory key, and a key made by a 3rd party, that is really just what I want to accomplish. I just want to figure out how to do it myself, instead of using this vendor:

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