The antiđŸš«-derailment🚃 & threadđŸ§” hijackingđŸ”« threadđŸ§” ⁉

So, I really wish I had some photography skills and the equipment to do so cause Lord knows I won’t be able to catch it on my 3 year old Samsung.

But! Something I got super excited over last night as I laid in bed staring at the implant, I thought I was losing my mind. Thought the glow in the dark powder was pulsating?

It’s not the powder nor the implant, the powder was lighting up my whatever visible blood was going over it and I realized it was synced to my heartbeat??? That is absolutely ducking beautiful and blew my mind.

This beautiful damn implant, glows and pulsates and I wish I could share but it’s so hard to capture :weary::weary:

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That’s awesome! Yeah blood blocks a ton of light, so it makes sense as the pulse pressure wave runs through your body, it could be blocking more light as the higher density blood runs over the implant.

This is how even webcams can be used to visually detect heart rate;

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I think I fried my acr122. Anyone know if it has an on board fuse? I don’t see anything labeled F just C, R and D.

But did see that the antenna can be tuned.

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what-did-you-do-messed-up

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That’s just red goop to stop people from messing with the tuning.

I plugged the acr122 into a pd power supply. It beeped and turned off now it won’t turn on.

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Clearly a Chinese model that does not actually respect PD protocol and just pumped a shit ton of power (high voltage) into that reader. Poor guy.

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Actually
 this begs the question, what do you mean? The acr122u reader and led will not do anything unless drivers are actively talking to the reader hardware. If you just plug it into power or into a computer that does not have proper drivers, the reader will not appear to do anything
 it will not appear to “turn on”.

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No power to the main chip when probing ground and power.

Also usually when it was plugged into a non pd power supply it would beep when power was applied.

Plot twist.

Shorting ground to power has breathed life back into it. And I even got to tune it.

If you have a nanovna check your acr122 for proper tuning!

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Did the tuning actually improve or degrade performance with a test setup? I have found that many readers are spot on but some are a little bit off
 seemingly on purpose. I wonder if tuning it actually reduced performance for some reason. The ACR 122u antenna design is very black magic of course.

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I have saved numbers of known distances from another project so I can test it later

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avg 4mm increase over 40 samples

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True
 Speaking of which, I should get a new VNA, more black candles, and a larger wizard hat


:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Although the ACR122 antenna doesn’t look too bad from the pictures I’ve seen, the shielding can make it look significantly more intimidating than it actually is.

I wouldn’t expect a fuse in something like that TBH. The USB standard specifies overcurrent in the device that’s supplying the power so adding a fuse would be superfluous. However, I’ve seen Chinese “engineers” place 500mA fuses on USB devices, but those geniuses also add fuses to the output of switching regulators with built-in overcurrent protection


:man_facepalming:t2:

If you’re going to add a fuse to a switching regulator, place it on the input
 In case the mosfets in that no name Chinese synchronous regulator fail
 But they have to place it where it does nothing except for increasing the output impedance of the power supply


Chinese designs are weird. They often do things that make the product worse while increasing the BOM and assembly cost. And they still manage to make things for less than everyone else.

Yes, I need a hug.

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NFC Antenna Designs in general are black fucking magic. Litterally all of it. I dont understand how or why half the shit i have made even works. i just know it does and go and sacrifice another random neighborhood cat and just hope for the best.

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There you go, that’s the secret
 Obviously, it’s way more effective if you sacrifice said cat on a Smith chart.

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You say this, but if you ever get into DS or old vita modding, buy a used one on eBay that’s busted and 9/10 times it’s one of the 3-4 fuses that’s on the boards right off the battery or USB/power supply.

It got so frequent I just jumped the pads on mine

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You frequently replace your
“anything not Type-C” to a Type-C correct?

Everything else in your wiring / soldering good?

Do you have the old cable or similar you can downgrade back to, so you can test if it still works.

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I didn’t switch this because there is a usb-C reader available but the drivers aren’t as robust yet

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I still have a WiFi card in my bag that has a Mini USB connector on it. Along with a USB C adapter


Some of you might know exactly which card it is.

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Finished cleaning up my pelican and all the new free hardware arrived. The sheer size of this thing is apparent with the few stickers I have.

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Hmm, someone playing around with wifi cracking?

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