Perfect for a layman like me.
Is that the regular 3-beep one, or something even newer?
This one supports AWiD as well!
Here’s a random idea:
On the housing, cut the front off so that the antenna is always exposed, so you don’t need to open it for better range.
Some also talk about taking the antenna out and just putting it on the outside with wires through a notch.
Or you can do this.
Not a bad idea actually
Just as I learn to use this stupid proxmark glare
Lol more options always better I guess
I’ll probably grab one and re orient the antenna like you did that’s a nice touch
The Proxmark is much more versatile, and probably safer provided you use a ProxLF coil. But it’s 30x the price (with the ProxLF antenna factored in)
Can’t use the lf coil with an pm3 easy
If I had known there were clones of the higher end version I might have done that
Ah yes, that’s a bummer. OTOH you can find howtos to make a LF coil for the PM3 easy I think.
have you tested whether this new Blue cloner puts the 51243648 pin on it?
Curious on this too, would like to have one that doesn’t set a password at all!
Its up on the site and the description says it still sets a password.
The Blue Cloner will write the source ID to your T5577 based product, then set a password after writing. This protects the target T5577 chip from other malicious writers, but it also means your target chip requires a password to write data to it again. This does not affect the Blue Cloner – it will continue to function properly – but if you wish to write to your T5577 chip using any other writer, you will need to ensure the writer can authenticate first using the password 51243648.
I hate devices that try to be too clever. Here the password thing is exceptionally stupid, because either it’s secret and you’re locked out of your chip after the cloner is done writing, or it’s public (as is the case here) and it’s just a minor extra annoyance if you’re a maker of “malicious writers”.
Holy fuck, how did I miss that???
Maybe because it was right at the bottom and I got distracted by the purdy YouTube video above it ?
Maybe I thought it was just an artifact leftover from the previous webstore listing?
Maybe I just became one of “those people” who just ask instead of trying to find the info themselves?
Eitherway, to atone for my sins and make amends, hopefully I can reduce the shame I have brought on my family.
Here is the command line
lf t55xx write b 0 d ******** p 51243648
Now, I shall step outside and commit sepuku.
Just cloned my work badge to my NExT.
Awesome, only thing left is to replace 1 lock…
I’m assuming this is the command line you’d find if you were to write to the chip with a blue cloner then read it with a PM3… for the purpose of deleting it and thus removing the password? Sorry for the confusion, I’m pretty new to all of the RFID programming stuff
Follow-up question, if you intend to only use the blue cloner and not upgrade or switch cloning/writing devices, what harm does the password do, even if it’s viewable as was mentioned earlier?
That’s the command you would use on a proxmark to write a new ID to an xEM or the LF side of the NExT if you had already written to it with a blue cloner which had password protected it. You would have to issue the command like that every time you wanted to write a new ID.
It doesn’t do any harm, as long as you always use a blue cloner that has that specific password and you’re needs are addressed by the limited tag brands that a blue cloner supports (HID or EM). Lots of implantees want more than that, though. For example, my workplace uses a different type of LF system. The blue cloner wouldn’t work for me, and testing it out could lock my implant down so that I have to buy a proxmark, or get it removed. That’s not even considering the data tearing issues that the poor antenna coupling can cause.
Oh God, that sounds scary. I’m about to attempt to clone my school ID (HID 125kHz) to my NExT chip using a blue cloner and I actually just created a thread asking about how to identify the compatibility of the cloner with my card given the only info I have on it (markings on the back)… really hoping I don’t brick the chip, wondering if you would know how to differentiate? Only thing I’ve confirmed is that they are HID and 125kHz.