What are you making ⚒️ / 3D printing 🖨

You’re set up is coming together, looking nice!

1 Like

Bites and nibbles I think I forgot to take pics of 3-5 additions

The nice thing about the system being modular, it removes a LOT of the analysis paralysis

All of these tools I use at one point or another…

I don’t have to worry about the “perfect” layout because I can change it on the fly to adjust for whatever project or shenanigan I’m up to

If it’s not clear, I’m using a basic color scheme for the pieces
Black will always be bottom grids
White is currently part storage… I’m not married to it
Green will be adhesive/attachment
Blue is electrical
Orange is tools…maybe dremel stuff…
Grey is detail or post processing

Admin/writing marking/ parts baggies will possibly be red

I forget who accused my desk of looking too clean…
it just cleans up quickly lol

2 Likes

This Guy GIFs | Tenor

2 Likes

This… I knew there was something

3 Likes
1 Like

Should I get a PEI bed for my printer? The one that came with the Ender does not last as long when you print a lot of ABS and ASA.

Also, what about FR-4 beds? That material should be easy to get.

1 Like

PEI is absolutely worth it, as long as it’s on a spring steel sheet. It’s made a huge difference with my overall printer experience. Everything sticks super well, releases easily, and it seems very durable.

2 Likes

I kinda wanna get a VAAPR bed for my ender, I’ve already tinkered with automatic part
Ejection before, and getting a “fall off the bed” level of release is difficult to do consistently with glass
( I have it now but it can come and go)

But I’ve heard it’s super easy to wreck and it’s absurdly over priced given they’ve kept its secret sauce secret

Working on some fiber optic adapters :grin:

5 Likes

I tested a sheet of FR-4 as a print bed and it worked rather well after a bit of sanding. And the part popped off on it’s own when the bed cooled.

I thought that it was going to fail at first as the raw sheet was a too slick to have decent adhesion. But I has 240 grit sandpaper at hand and this fixed my problem.

1 Like

I’ve been thinking about getting a plane old piece of glass as a bed for my Ender. But reliability comes and goes with these machines from what I’ve seen…

I love the glass on my ender. I tried a few build plate but the only exception be that hold up and works consistently is the glass.
The part doesn’t pop off on its own, but a gentle tug get it loose most of the time. Never damaged a part trying to take it off the bed.

The one thing g to point out that no one ever seam to mention is the spray you put on the glass. I use Suave Max Hold unscented. Anything else has hit and miss results.

It does take a bit longer to preheat the bed, but if that’s an issue get a cheap picture frame and cut it to size, the glass will be thinner and get to temp faster (and no, they don’t break over time with heating and cooling, that’s a gimmick from the printer manufacturer to sell you fancy expensive glass)

3 Likes

I use glass now, I can get it to fall off levels of release,pretty much you need to
run a few degrees hotter bed
Spray bed with ipa
Spray bed with pva
Wipe most off with a water dampened papertowel
Extremely fine control of initial Z height
( I have a little printed mod, that moved your z home switch up and down by screw thread, so once you are perfectly leveled, if you want a smidge more or less squish )

I do a weird thing where I set myself up for way too much squish, and then I dial in a -.03 initial horizontal layer expansion to remove excess elephants foot

2 Likes

Why have I never thought of 3D printing dice before lmao, you’re a genius, and also that turned out very nice.

1 Like

Yeah, been there, what a crazy night

Is there a mod with a tof sensor on the print head instead of a Z switch? I feel like it could make things way less tedious

I level my bed about every spool … and add spray every 1 to 2 spools …

I find changing filament the most tedious part of the whole process … If/when I change printer it’s definitely going to be with a multi-filament system so I can have a few different materials and color ready to go :+1:

I wrote some gcode to semi automate filament changes on my ender

1 Like

I should probably get a CR Touch for my Ender but it has been a frustrating machine and I’ve spent enough money on it already. So I’m wondering if I should buy a more expensive machine in hopes that it won’t become a money pit like the E3?

How do you doi it?
Do you send gcode manually to the machine or you have a print file that you run and go through the steps?

My bed stay level really well over time, I rarely touch it.
What are you seeing?
Maybe we can help making it more reliable for you

i use the silicone bed blocks. i never touch my bed leveling knobs. I also have a BL Touch which auto levels in Klipper for me every print.

I would like this filament change macro. I tried writing one but i couldnt co-ordinate it with the runout sensor.