DIY NFC car lock

So… Some of you might know already I’m a very rough around the edges woman. And my car is also rough around the edges to fit my style :heart:.

I’ve got a gorgeous Land Rover Defender which is fully modded, different engine, different axles, different suspension, tyres, the biggest you can get.

Now one of the things I would love to have is an implant to open my car, but there is no electronics on my car, is almost fully mechanical and electrical, because when I’m on the road I’m able to quick fix stuff.

As I said, my car is rough around the edges, so on the road my central locking system broke, and on top of it, the drivers door stayed closed every time it closed. So I had to fix it on the go and I fixed it welding a metal bar to the lock, so I could pull the bar up everytime I wanted to open the door. (don’t worry, I’m not too worried about getting my baby stolen, nobody would dare)
And the passenger’s side doesn’t lock at all :joy:
Usually I just don’t lock my car because of where I am now, nobody steals anything here, everybody knows each other. Cozy Scottish trailer park vibes here.

My question is… Is there any car lock available that is compatible with implants aaand it’s not only for fancy cars? Or anybody has an idea on how to DIY one to point me in the right direction. I’m not afraid of welding, soldering or stuff like that.

Photo of my beauty’s behind:


So, a lot of it depends on what’s actually broken, and what you mean by central locking system.

Depending on if you have factory power locks, and what’s broken, there’s 2 different solutions to that, to easily add RFID locking. I can’t remember what implants you have, but this answer assumes you have LF capabilities, with either a NExT or an xEM.

Solution 1: Repair the existing power door system on your drivers door. Usually it’s a broken linkage, or a broken clip on the power door lock actuator. If you can find parts in Scotland, just replace the broken piece, it should be easy to pinpoint if you open the door. If the door lock actuator itself is broken, and you don’t want to replace that, see solution 2. If you can repair everything, wire an xAC v2 (available on DT), with the relay connecting 12V to the lock solenoid. This isn’t hard to do, and usually you can just bypass the unlock switch for both connections. More detail can be given here once more things are narrowed down.

Solution 2: If you don’t have power door locks, or you don’t feel like fixing the old solenoids, buy an aftermarket power door lock solenoid, like this:
That works much of the same way, meant to add power locks to a car without them.

They’re usually fairly self explanatory to install, depending on your vehicle (some suck tbh).

You would do most of the same as solution 1, just wiring an xAC v2 in, and using the relay to connect 12V to the input on the solenoid.

You would also need a power switch, since the xAC drains power like crazy. So the idea would be flick on power switch, scan implant, doors unlock, then flick off. Depending on your ergonomics, you could also use a momentary push button.

Most people put the antenna either on the inside of their driver’s side mirror, or inside of their door handle itself.

Feel free to lmk if you need more info on any of this, hearing more info about your setup would definitely help, as well.


I don’t have any implants yet, as I’m working out what I want from them, and waiting for the parlours to reopen.

The central locking is not factory power locks fitted. My Landy is from 1991. I fitted that a few years back, just stopped working one day, probably the receiver, which is connected to a battery that’s shit and also from 1991 that bursted a few weeks back and probably the receiver stopped working near the end of that battery.

My car has two batteries fitted, one was old af, the other one is new. The new one takes care of basics of the car, ignition, radio, lighter, lights, speakers, etc. The second one was being used as a leisure battery, for my back lights, USB connections, TV, heater, two extra lighters for charging shit, a aaand the central lock. All that is dead now until I get enough money to get another leisure battery. Its not like I’m going to be traveling anytime soon anyway… :roll_eyes:

The lock problem doesn’t have anything to do with the central locking I installed not working, it’s that the lock just slips back down when you close the door. Sometimes it doest it, sometimes it behaves and doesn’t lock me out and I don’t have to climb through the back.

So assuming I can’t be bothered to fix the lock, and I get the central locking back on.
Let’s talk aftermarket power door lock solenoids.
Can I use that without power locks then? I’ve got the batteries under my passengers seat, so I got it very easy to wire from 12v.
I’m new to nfc though, so I don’t know how an antenna looks like, and how would the antenna be connected to the power door locks. Do I need to unlock each door individually?

Aaand if I fix my central lock currently in my car, would be easier to install? The system is the typical infrared one, a receiver on my windshield and a controller on my car keys.

BTW, doest my attached photo show on my original post? I can’t see any images in this forum :weary:

Car in deep water? Check

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Cool :relieved:

I’m not sure if it’ll be applicable to your situation but I’ve been working on a diy solution for my car that might work with yours…

I took a pn532 reader module, shoved it in the plastic back of the side mirror, wired it to an arduino nano, programed the nano by modifying the example reader code to send power on a certain pin whenever it read my implants I’d number, connected that specified pin to a relay and had the relay hooked up to short the leads on the “unlock doors” button on the inside of the car.

If it is just the receiver that broke like you said, this may still work for you if you have an ‘unlock’ button on the inside. Needing to do one or both doors depends on the central locking system. Mine is set so that the first press of any unlock button does driver only and a second press unlocks everything.

I’ll be posting the code and instructions somewhere when I eventually finish it but I haven’t had the time lately

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And she has a sexy arse.

As an answer to your question(s), I would be giving the same advice as @darthdomo PLUS @MTFT solution also sounds suitable.

Do you have a keyfob?
If so what buttons does it have?
1 Button (Lock/unlock)
2 Button Separate Lock and Unlock buttons )

That sounds like the lock rod or lock bar have come out of the retaining clip or the clip has broken ( If so, should be a cheap and easy fix / replace )
Have you taken the door card off yet to have a look?
If you do Take a few photos for us including the wiring etc.

You sound capable of a bit of DIY, so once you sort out your locks, you could also look at a Push to start system like this ( Compatiable with xEM, NExT, FlexEM etc )

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Fair warning, I have that easy guard system, it works for what it says but it will NOT work with implants.
That reader is not anywhere near strong enough to read an implant…
That’s actually went in building my own system

Edit: Thanks @Pilgrimsmaster, i got it working with your method. I stand corrected that it will indeed work for ignition but im still making my own custom one for fun and to have enough range to read through the windshield and unlock the door too


That’s good to know, glad I didn’t waste my time making CaRFID lmao

Yea, I never got it to scan my next and this is the result of the x field detectors:

Not impressive…
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You might have a dud one buddy :cry:

I have 3 Easy Guards and all mine work with my NExT granted the range is only around 0-3mm
I just did a test with a FlexEM ( Not installed / FlexEM Analogue Aliexpress ) and the range was around 25-30mm, significantly better (The same performance as the factory fob)

Ok wait holdup… I’ve been duped…?
Well at least I’m learning things by doing it myself…
And getting frustrated at my awefull soldering job…

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Silver lining. :+1:
I just set up a test rig with a spare one and :video_camera: them for you…
Give me a bit and I’ll post them…if I can get the video small enough

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Really sucks that the ignition is the easy part,

The lock unlock function is what’s keeping me from starting on this

Yea that’s the other part I’m building in with the custom one I’m doing.

Hey @Pilgrimsmaster can you remind me how to program a new tag on those, I wanna see if I did get a bust or if I just never did it right…

Yeah, there are so many approaches you can take and they all depend on your car unfortunately.
But doable.

There area few people working on a few things…

LOL, that reminds me on a Turkish phrase:

“It is difficult to steal among thieves.”

Ha, I started typing. How about a photo of the destructions :boom:

I just copied and wrote to my NExT with the Proxmark…Easier, especially after you have installed the unit in your car.

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I would try something like this:

and this for the other direction:


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