Awesome thanks. I had lost that. I’ll test it in the morning.
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Biggest problem is I don’t have door lock unlock switches in my doors, only a single button on the dash
And it’s in the navigation console, which Im Leary of digging into
I am assuming though, your central locking unit will be in the drivers door, or possibly behind the button 
So a single physical button?
Press Lock?
Press again Unlock?
If so that is very promising!
Or if it is a switch, still doable, just not quite as easy
With what I am thinking, you could easily do a bench test until you are confident!
Thats the only switch in the car that controls the door locks
Sorry, by switch yes I mean a button, press to lock press to unlock
In theory it’s great as I only need to simulate the button being pressed with a relay,
Problem is I’m super leery of digging around to find or if it will even have an exposed contact
I guess the entire panel condenses down to a ribbon cable to the computer
Photos ( Both sides ) of the pamphlet, from another one of my posts
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Your forum wizardry never ceases to amaze me! Nice find, thanks!
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Personally I would be having a look, so I at least knew what my options were.
If you are worried about getting into the dash, How about the door panel?
Well in fairness, It was my post…
Door panel maybe,
Problem is I was trained to work on planes years ago and as a result I seriously am fairly incompatible with working on cars
Nothing makes fucking sense, NOT A god damn wire is ever labeled, parts have no identification system that means anything to anyone besides the manufacturer…
I’m seriously allergic to the stupid fucking plastic clips, that they NEVER SPECIFY are they or even how to fucking remove them with out shattering the stupid little bastards which are difficult to replace
I recently switched my lightbulbs and if “popping” the headlight assembly back in I snapped 1 of 2 mounting tabs clean in half…
They said to do it like that and shit breaks… raaaaaa
Sry… minor rant
Honestly I’ve seen a dash replacement unit for like 50$ on eBay once or twice, I’m seriously tempted to buy one to see if I could gain access to the contacts before touching the real one
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In case you were wondering, or somebody else needs it, the PM3 Commands ( Although some of the commands may have been changed in recent updates, of which I am yet to do )
Read an authorised tag
lf em 410x_read
Result
[+] EM410x pattern found
EM TAG ID : 0F0368568B
[...]
Write to Implant
lf em 410x_write 0F0368568B 1
Wait, what?
So if I plan to use the xAC v2 as a controller to open my car, it should not be wired directly to the main 12v battery?
Note: I tried programming the LF part of my work ID (cloned to my NeXT, EM mode) , but the Easyguard didn’t accept it.
After some fiddling, I discovered that if you have An EM tag that only has numbers as UID, you can program it to the Easyguard.
But if your tags UID contains letters, the Easy guard refuses to read/accept the tag. - at least it didn’t with my UID.
So the “0F0368568B” id probably doesn’t work with the easyguard?
This is my ACTUAL one I used a few hours ago
33005359C8
The other option, if you wanted to try it, is Just write your own ID with only numbers as EM on your T5577 with a Proxmark, then enrol that directly on to the EasyGuard.
I have packed it all up now, but I am pretty sure I have also enrolled by holding Valid tag on the antenna for ~5-10secs and there is a long beep, then present a new tag you want to enrol within ~30sec until a series of beeps.
I will confirm that at some stage
Short answer ‘it depends’ - mainly on how you use the car. My car has 3 xAC v1’s connected and powered at all times, they draw about 13mA each, totalling around 40mA - my alarm draws another 50mA, and the rest of my car draws 40mA for retaining settings and powering control modules.
Total of 130mA - pretty high for a ‘non faulty’ car, and can flatten a full battery in a few weeks if left without driving. It’s also my daily driver, so while this is high it isn’t a problem.
If you don’t drive the car often, a lot of people put on a switch so they can reduce the current draw as low as possible and leave for a few months without issue.
My second vehicle is a van that I use more seasonally, during the ‘on season’ the alarm and 3 readers are powered all the time. It gets driven at least once a week and is totally fine. In the off season, i use a battery cutoff switch that kills power to the alarm and readers (while a security camera is pointed at it!), along with the radio and everything else except the connector for my solar panel and charger to keep the battery in good shape.
Depending on how much your car already draws at standby, 13mA will either be basically nothing, or a massive amount - pick your battles wisely! For my daily driver, having 3 turned on is no big deal.
EDIT: According to the product listing, the v2’s are ThirstyBois compared to the v1 - again pick your battles and maybe don’t go with 3 of them. Website says 60mA EACH - it’s a lot, but again, in your circumstance it might be no big deal.
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Another couple of options to add to what @Compgeek suggested
Get a larger ( Capacity ) battery
or
Get a “House” battery, connected it to the Start battery via a VSR, You may also want to put in a Low Voltage Cut Out, and have a backup entry option. aka a key 
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Or another option, get a CTEK battery charger (or similar) and your battery will love you for it.
While driving the car every couple of days it’ll be fine, if you go away for the week or decide to take the train then plug it in. It’s a multi stage charger that will first take your battery to maximum then go into ‘trickle’ mode to keep it at 100% for up to 10 days. After that, it goes into a pulsed mode to let your battery go up and down a little bit which is good for battery health when stored indefinitely - keep it powered and know that when you turn the key it will start.
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just opened my pm easy from dt, flashed, and tinkered.
it is now:
lf em 410x clone -u xxxxxxxxxx
my hand now reads the same as the easyguard card but i just went outside and did a very brief test due to it being 5 am, freezing, and snowy
result: nada 
ill try again tomorrow and try to find the sweet spot when i actually have a coat on
That is so weird. the ID I have that does not work with the Easyguard, has “EM 410x ID AFAB5086E1”
However, “EM 410x ID 3900315007” works, which led me to assume it only accepted numbers.
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That is quite different, I really should do an update
Bugger
1130pm here and 18°C quite comfortable
thanks for the info.
My car is an all electric, and it charges the 12v battery ‘when needed’, even when it’s turned off… so I assume one AC will work just fine, no matter the usage, and that it practically functions as a CTEK battery charger.
only one way to find out 
Oh yeah, you should be totally fine then. If it’s plugged in at night anyway, who cares how much power it draws at standby as long as you’ve always got enough to get home. It’ll be nothing compared to driving power.
And you are correct, no need for a CTEK, the car has its own charge controller already.
Only thing to consider is where you get your power from, you want it to be fused and some more modern cars can be fussy if you try to draw more power through circuits reserved for certain modules. Check a car forum for your car to see what your options are for power of accessories that need a constant connection.
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