This is an awesome writeup!
Do you think its possible to mount it in parallel to the key ignition?
So you can either use the chip or the physicals key.
Also, found one that looks “very similar” on amazon (US):
I can tell you the last one you listed was the most likely to the one I used above
Here is the link to the actual store I bought it from
NZ$ 22.30 49%OFF | 12V Auto Car Alarm One Start Stop Button Engine Start Push RFID Lock Ignition Switch Keyless Entry Anti-theft System RU In Stock
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNcZ0k3
Yes, If i left the key barrel in position, I could have place the Start button elsewhere and I could use either to start.
see here
Or
you could just leave the keybarrel and a tool or two (this one only needs a Phillips screwdriver 
) hidden in the car.
That’s the understatement of the decade.
Do you leave the factory ignition plug pluged into the ignition?
There installation of this device includes tapping the wires behind and the pushbutton itself has tabs on it designed to go in and around the existing keylock cylinder and hold the button overtop of it like a cap.
I didn’t in this specific install.
If you chose to leave the ignition in, you would need to ensure the steering lock is disabled.
The easiest way, is not ideal, but you could cut a key short enough, turn the key until the steering lock is disengaged, and leave the key in the ingnition barrel. Just make sure it is short enought that sombody can’t simply turn the key to start, but long enough that you can remove the key when you, sell the car for example.
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nice. my vw had the steering lock disabled by a local garage … he used a pin so it could be re-enabled easily. it makes sense though that you would normally have to remove the lock cylinder to disable the column lock.
also how is the transponder situation dealt with? in my van I am honestly considering just inserting the key, turning it to unlock the column, and breaking off the key inside the lock… then extracting the transponder and taping it to the underside of the start button so it’s being held in the right place but still hidden.
Yeah, its a long post, I dont blame you for missing it 
I’ve got one of these push to start buttons that’s been sitting in my car for a year now. Maybe necroing this thread will kick me my ass in gear to get it done!
iirc in the instructions that came with mine, it says there should be enough room to take apart the key and place the part with the buttons and transponder behind the push button to get around it.
Thanks for the awesome write up Pilgrim! Going to reference it during install. Much easier to understand than the instructions it came with lol
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If you haven’t taken apart a key to see the transponder before, the transponders come in a couple of differrent forms.
The last one I did, looked VERY MUCH like an xEM / xHT
They are made with glass and sometimes glued in place so just be careful when removing it. Other transponders I have seen are solid plastic. So much easier to remove.
With one I did, I found the immobilizer antenna around the ignition, and I glued the chip (glass) perpendicular to it, this worked fine, but it did remove the Immobilizer functionality. ie. Always disabled
But
For just a few bucks, if you grab a bypass module like i linked to Amal, that powers on when you power the easy guard, so the Immobilizer functionality remains.
Don’t forget to bench test for range, as you probably saw in my video in the first post, you need to have almost contact with the antenna to get a read…for my one.
Yours may be different
I have done a few of these, so if you get stuck, just ask
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Awesome! Thank you so much!!
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Hi I’m new to this system and I’m actually wanting to put it on a a project that I have started which is a golf car with a Suzuki GSXR 750 Engine on it I have a question about powering the engine and start a normal car ignition. Has multiple wires going to the key Tumblr, my wiring only has a power wire to the initial system/coils computer, a starter wire, and one wire that will go to a junction box for my accessories. Now on this push start I got my acc wire-start wire-12v wire and ground wire hooked up. Now since there is a key one 1 and a key on 2. What’s the difference and where should I hook my ignition wire to on 2 or on 1 thanks in advance
Easyguard says it will only work with 12V vehicles. I’d really like to put one on my 7.5T truck with has a twin battery (24v) ignition. Is there a safe work around?
Do you have a 12v cigarette lighter circuit you can tap into?
You can also get a 12v converter
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Yes, I have access to 12v but I think when they say “Only for 12v vehicles” they might mean that the ignition relay can’t switch more than that. Does that seem right?
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Naa the relay contacts are often rated for current not really volts… in reality it’s watts but generally speaking the relay’s switched contacts can handle a lot. It’s the relay coil that needs precision when it comes to voltage.
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So if I feed the unit 12v I should be OK
As long as they don’t do any shenanigans mixing switch contacts and unit power. If the relay switch contacts are entirely separate from unit power then yes you should be ok… but… since they are saying 12v vehicles and you’re working with ignition, they might have pulled some bullshit with the wiring. You’d have to check it out to be sure.
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I contacted them. They are going to ask the technical department and get back to me.
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I would just use a meter to check the output on the relay while it’s hooked up to 12 volts. There should be no output but a connected circuit when activated. If so you should be fine.
If not and it puts out 12 volts, then the answer will be to have it power a second relay which is isolated and connect that to the ignition system. In fact this is possibly the better option anyway as you can make sure the second relay has the capacity to relay 24 volts with no issues.
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