So I got it hooked up but still won’t start I have both the 12v red/white and the red wire from the ignition harness connected to the red wire on the easyguard harness then got both acc wires which is brown and the other is orange to the Blue wire on the easyguard harness the yellow starter wire to the yellow wire on the easyguard harness and the brown wire from easyguard harness goes to the white ignition1 wire on the ignition harness and then the white wire from the easy guard harness to the pinkl ignition wire on the ignition harness and the green wire to the break switch and I think now I need to figure out a bypass for the immobilizer I don’t know why it won’t start
Does the dash light up?
So just the battery light will come on when I hit the button without the break then when I try too start it it willl go from the battery light too crank and try too start so before when I had it I didn’t connect the brown acc wire and everything lit up like it was supposed too and that’s when it would almost start then die and that time it sounded like an immobilizer problem but I figured it was just the ignition cylinder and the. Housing because it looked like someone tried to steal it so I just replaced the cylinder housing and got a new ignition lock cylinder and key and had too do the whole VATS relearn procedure for the key so and I was looking at the instructions where it says take some wire and spin it around the cylinder just the instructions arnt really clear on what exactly to do or I just ight be slightly retarded lol but I pretty mechanically inclined and pretty good at figuring shit out im just not trying too destroy my truck more then it already is I mean it’s no nice Cadillac or any thing its my work truck but I thought maybe a adding this push to start would be rad and also maybe adding this remote start kit i got after but I need this to work first
You have an immobolizer!?
What sort? ie. how is it deactivated?
Is it the key? (most likely)
The easyguard doesnt bypass this, it simply replaces the ignition system, you will indeed need to bypass it.
Don’t worry though, its pretty easy and you have a couole of options.
did you read the FAQ part of the guide?
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I’ve read around that my year Chevy has this thing called pass lock it’s actually built in the ignition cylinder housing I guess also called VATS these are the keys I gave for my truck they are after market because I got a new cylinder housing and also lock cylinder so do I still need to take a chip out also i do have a bypass module for the remote starts I have its an idata link here’s a pic of that too would that work?
This sounds to me like the wire may which is wrapped around is being used to read a chip in the key to disable the immobiliser. Without knowing how the key is set up, are yo able to wrap that wire around the key itself (or the key head where the chip is likely to be) and see if pressing the button starts?
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I can try it Won’t let me upload a video so I can kind of show you what is going on Also, would it be possible that the chip is in the rock cylinder itself or no?
I have a new model car with a push to start and touch lock/unlock. So a project like this isn’t as beneficial, but I might explore having a backup unlock/start that works with my implant should I ever not have a FOB…
I would expect it to be in the key. If it was in the cylinder, it wouldn’t really serve as a security feature. The entire idea of an immobiliser is that you can pick or force the ignition lock (or bypass it) and the car won’t start. Having the chip in the cylinder would defeat this.
Can you try putting that wire around the head of your key and see if it then starts? Your current set up is getting the engine to crank, correct?
If it starts then we can likely come up with some ideas on what to do with that wire and key so your immobiliser is not in a constant state of disabled.
I can pull the wire it cranks just won’t start I wish this forum we would let me upload a video so I can show you
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Just pulled the wire and it still won’t start all the way it’s cranking just no starting
Have you previously started it with this key?
I am wondering if the key has not been paired with the immobiliser properly?
From what you are describing it seems everything is working correctly but the immobiliser is not being disabled.
@Pilgrimsmaster are you able to help please re uploading?
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Yes I just replaced the cylinder housing and the cylinder and it came with the key and I had to do the reliance procedure I’m able to start it now with just a key, but the push button will only crank it won’t start
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Ok. This still sounds like an immobiliser problem with it not reading the key chip.
Have you replaced the keyed ignition system or is that still in place? If it’s in place, try inserting the key but using the push button to start.
There will be some type of antenna in the ignition housing which reads the key chip. I suspect that is what is missing on your push button set up.
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What is your video format?
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I’m not sure it is the immobilizer. When my silverado had a key ignition, I had two keys, one with a chip and one without (don’t why, I got them both from the dealer). When I tried to start it with the non-chip key, the dash would light up and the radio would turn on, but the starter motor wouldn’t turn. It’s possible it’s the immobilizer, but I’m leaning towards an ignition issue. When was the last time this truck ran? Can you check for spark? @Poppatyty
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Look my truck runs and starts with the key I drive it everyday for work I just am adding the push to start that’s it I never had the factory key for it I got 2 new after market keys that came with the new ignition lock cylinder and then I got a new housing and did the relearn procedure on the new keys my truck starts and runs fine it’s just the push to start only cranks but don’t start but the keys still start it I drive this truck everyday for work
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