F150 RFID push to start/door unlock

Thanks man. That would be great. In theory if I did go the 2 antenna route would I be able to replace the included antenna for those antennas posted and just splice in the extra one and run additional wires?

And thank you to everyone else for the assistance. I misread the wiring diagram on my compustar alarm and the wiring I was hoping to use is actually a trigger to remote start the truck, not unlock the doors. I might just end up soldering wire to an extra fob I have to simulate a button push. I’m not so worried about locking as the F-150 has a door mounted key pad that I can just press a button to lock and arm the system (love that feature) this might be the way I end up going unless I can find a setting in the compustar DC3 to do what I’d like it to do!

So you are going to have:-
easy guard RFID push to start
compustar alarm
xEM Access Controller v2

Have you done the power calcs?
easy guard RFID push to start 8mA idle ( Claimed, I haven’t tested )
compustar alarm, will depend on which model you have
xEM Access Controller v2 60mA idle (xEM Access Controller is 11mA)

Yes sir thank you, I have a high capacity AGM battery for all the electronics. Should be good with the Idle draw.

Not likely. Here’s why;

Would I be able to make another one out of similar wire though or just extend the length?

Yes, you would need a LCR meter (so you can measure inductance). If you get the inductance the same it should work, but that’s why off the shelf won’t work unless you get particularly lucky.

This post has some good information, there able to get away with not having a LCR meter as the device there adding it too can measure the antenna characteristics itself.

So to simplify this and not having to worry about the antenna, I think I’m just going to get a second xAC v2. Here’s my plan, and please let me know if anyone sees any issues with it or a better way.

Solder 2 wires (+ and -) to the key fob, from this wire set, solder an additional + and - for the second xAC v2. One xAC will be at the front drivers window, the second xAC will be at the rear drivers window (or possibly passenger side)

Also since the xAC is providing the 9v pulse, I wouldn’t need to have the battery in the fob correct?

Amal - could you please provide the measurement of the board? I didn’t see them listed

What are you connecting it to on the fob? I doubt your fob conveniently has a place you can pump power into that will both power it and press the button. You shouldn’t need a battery, you could power it from the car but the fob probably expects a 1.5v button cell, you’d want a voltage regulator hooked up to 12v from your car. As for activating the button, you can’t just dump power into the button pins, that’s a great way to release the magic smoke from your fob, you’d want a relay or MOSFET of some sort to replace the button.

(sorry not an electrical engineer so may be wrong with terminology etc)

1 Like

@leumas95 looks like he is replying to you ( A couple of issues with your plan, or things to confirm ), I will leave him to it, but I will give you the measurements…standby
Call it 105mm x 55mm to be safe
FYI
xEM is implant
xAC is the access controller V2

1 Like

Right sorry, 2 am and my mind isn’t working clearly lol I’ll edit the post to avoid confusion. Thanks for the measurement. Is that the v2? That is the one I ordered as the original is out of stock.

Yes, directly to the fob. I can’t really see another way to do it. My original plan was to tap into my compustar unit to unlock/disarm the alarm but I don’t think there’s a disarm input from what I saw. That’s going to be the issue. I can run it to the lock wires to unlock but that won’t disarm the alarm. Seems like this is going to be more complicated than I thought

1 Like

Sorry that is the V1 :arrow_double_up:
This is the V2 :arrow_down:
86 x 34 x 12mm

@Pilgrimsmaster I’m sleepy and can’t find the Toggilator mainly because I can’t spell it… Could you “tap in” :sweat_smile:. I feel like all the information around that thing is very relevant here.

Haha yeah I’m sleepy too clearly, I had myself convinced that the fob battery was 9v and I could just tap into it but you are correct it’s the 1.5v I believe.

I was reading about that on the forum and the possible production of it. Did it happen? I’m going to go and order that now if that’s the case

1 Like

Yeah that’s all and we’ll but I assume your fob doesn’t convenient have a + and - connection like in your drawing :sweat_smile: that powers and activates it.

@Devilclarke was the mastermind behind it. He is an electrical engineer and made a batch. Not sure if it progressed beyond his prototypes. Maybe this message will summon him.

1 Like

Sorry, I was stuffing my face, yep, I expected you to reference that
Here is the link you were thinking of

1 Like

I would pay ridiculous money for this haha this looks like it would solve the issue. Please be a thing!!

As an “authorised representative” of @Devilclarke I’ll offer you one for…

giphy-11

I accept most common crypto currencies…

It is a thing,
Last I heard @Devilclarke was still waiting for the Potentiometers pots, then they will be a thing.

I am not sure how far in talks it got, but DevilClarke and Amal were considering putting a DT Access controller together to bring to market, but that may be some time away. I am not sure if the xAC V2 is THE new thing or just a stopgap until the DevilAmal AC Colab…

Here is the mention

And then here’s the original idea, from my compustar, I thought it was input so I thought perfect this will be easy. It’s actually output to the lock so I don’t know how I’d ever get it to work but I’m not hopeful