F150 RFID push to start/door unlock

Hey all! I’ve successfully installed an easy guard RFID push to start on my truck. I am now on to tackling the door unlock. I have a compustar alarm system and looking at the master install guide, I should be able to turn on a setting that when a 12v pulse is sent to the wire, it’ll disarm the system and unlock the doors. I’d imagine this would be pretty simple to do with the access control unit on the site. I wondering if I am able to use the same fob with both? Also would I be able to slice in multiple RFID antennas to the controller for scanning?

Thanks in advance!

I had a quick look, there are a few different “easy guard RFID push to start” systems. From what I saw it uses LF tags so the xEM / NExT / flexEM implants would work with it most likely. However I did not see any info on the exact type of card it uses, it would need to support EM4100 chip (I think that is what the access control uses) to work with the xAC access controller and the push to start since the xAC only works with that one type of chip.

Thanks for the reply. I was told it 125mhz. I was able to write it on a t5577 tag.

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Yeah, it’s just a matter of if the xAC and your car use the same “formatting” on the t5577. Do you have a proxmark by any chance?

I have 3 easy guard RFID push to start systems, and yes you can enrol your easy guard Fobs to the xAC and vice-versa.
Therefore your xEM , NExT, FlexEm.
No Proxmark needed to check, just use your master disc and eroll.
:+1:

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Thanks guys. I’m a little new at this. I don’t have an implant yet but I have 2 RFID bracelets. One is a em4100 and the other is a t5577. From what I understand the 4100 won’t write is that correct? I also have one of those blue RFID reader/writers would that be enough to write the access module fob to my bracelet that already has the easy guard fob wrote to?

I would suggest you enroll the bracelet to to the “access module” as you call it.

There are a couple of ways to skin this cat, but,
This is what I would do
Take your bracelet (EM4100) and enroll it into you Push to start,(learning mode) then using the same bracelet to enroll into your “access module” (present master and within 3secs present bracelet)
TaDa :mage:
One bracelet to rule them all :ring:
Then I would buy a NExT, FlexEm or xEM so I didn’t have to wear a bracelet!

(I can do a more thorough write up to explain the what’s and why, if you need it, I am just on my phone at the moment so keeping it brief)

if you want to enroll your t5577 bracelet, this is where you would use your blue cloner

FYI re: the blue cloner
Check out this video if you haven’t seen it.

Excellent thank you! I think I got it just need to wait to get my handles on the xEM access controller when it comes back in stock, or did I read correctly there might be a new version coming?

You did and there already is…
I don’t know if DT have the original xAC still in stock, you might have to ask Amal

Here is the link to the xAC V2

and the video (there will be more coming), as Amal says in the video, next is Garage door wiring with the xAC V2

Awesome! Ordered. I’m guessing it would be pretty simple just to build a custom harness to add additional antennas? Maybe this for example? I was thinking of 2 on the front of the vehicle and 2 on the rear. Probably overkill but I’d be able to unlock the doors any side of the truck which is a nice thought

There are ways to have multiple “antennas” where you switch between them one after another afaik (think it is called antenna multiplexing).

Not an expert on this but I think running all that cable might cause issues. See this post:

You also would need an identical antenna (or at least identical impedance inductance I think, unless the new xAC has the tuning cap under the blue tape.

You could also just have 4 xAC modules :sweat_smile:

Haha I could do four! Worse comes to worse if I can do a front drivers windshield with one additional rear drivers glass antenna that would be good enough. I suppose the specs on the antenna hasn’t been posted yet as it’s new? At least I could see or find any

Matching the inductance is the most important thing, and I’ve provided that measurement here;

image

The tuning cap would very likely be on the board. I think the blue tape is simply concealing a horrific soldering job.

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My hunch is that this would not be necessary. I am pretty sure you could simply extend the existing antenna using speaker wire… that small gauge wire that is in housing that is stuck together side by side. It’s important that this be the case so the wire doesn’t wrap around it self… try to keep it flat with no twists and don’t wrap it around stuff if possible… that will keep the effects of running such a long length to a minimum. If you have twists or wrap it around things that will create additional inductance that will throw off the tuning. I can do some tests with this type of wire soon and let you know.

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Thanks! In my head typing that 8t felt off… Was in a rush. Fixed :sweat_smile:

Thanks man. That would be great. In theory if I did go the 2 antenna route would I be able to replace the included antenna for those antennas posted and just splice in the extra one and run additional wires?

And thank you to everyone else for the assistance. I misread the wiring diagram on my compustar alarm and the wiring I was hoping to use is actually a trigger to remote start the truck, not unlock the doors. I might just end up soldering wire to an extra fob I have to simulate a button push. I’m not so worried about locking as the F-150 has a door mounted key pad that I can just press a button to lock and arm the system (love that feature) this might be the way I end up going unless I can find a setting in the compustar DC3 to do what I’d like it to do!

So you are going to have:-
easy guard RFID push to start
compustar alarm
xEM Access Controller v2

Have you done the power calcs?
easy guard RFID push to start 8mA idle ( Claimed, I haven’t tested )
compustar alarm, will depend on which model you have
xEM Access Controller v2 60mA idle (xEM Access Controller is 11mA)

Yes sir thank you, I have a high capacity AGM battery for all the electronics. Should be good with the Idle draw.

Not likely. Here’s why;

Would I be able to make another one out of similar wire though or just extend the length?