Howdy all. I was in the discord posting about this but I figure I’d post here. I bought a hornady wall shotgun safe and knew it would work with my implant but was not able to get it to scan. I figured this was due to the antenna just not picking up the implant. Well with a bit of hacking I got it to work just fine with my implant by pulling out the antenna and rerouting it to it sits on top of the safe itself. Its ugly but it works.
Some photos to follow.
Nice one,
I’ll put a link in the matrix 
That is a nice quick read!
I assumed you tested it lying flat on the surface?
That looks like it is screaming for some encapsulation method to protect it though.
@fatvod Could you please confirm for me if it is 125kHz or 13.56MHz
UPDATE
Matrix updated ( Last column currently Gun box and safes section)
If it works lying flat, get me dimensions and I can 3D print you a cover
It works lying flat yes, but the reason I mounted it in this orientation is frankly trying to position your hand while flat is much more difficult and awkward. This is really quite a bit easier. I also have a 3d printer so I could make something similar if need be but this seems to work for now.
It looks ghetto af I love it!
Just do yourself and change the back up key and shield the program buttons
Sorry yea its 125khz.
Honestly the only reason I hesitated to update the matrix was because it didn’t work natively. It required modification.
All good, I’ll add an * antenna modification may be required note
Updated and added the other LF implants a YES
This points to the idea that all hornady safes will work with modification. Though I can’t confirm for sure
I have a hornady pistol safe that basically looks the same… I can get it to read without modification, but it requires a very specific hand movement and implant placement.
If I’m remembering correctly from a previous post of yours I believe you have the gen1 safe, the older version. Its possible the antenna design is different on that one. Either way the hack makes it much more reliable.
ah yes true… didn’t realize they had a new version out.
I have tried the same steps here and it doesn’t seem to work on the digital clock safe. Is it possible to somehow amplify the signal from the safe?
You may need to modify the antenna coil of the safe to make it more accessible. Another option might be to create a passive “booster” but it’s not really boosting anything, it’s reshaping the magnetic field to work better with implants… but doing so is kind of like black magic. It involves putting a coil of wire over the reader antenna and connecting that wire to another smaller coil of wire elsewhere that you can more easily access. Simply moving the existing antenna (without changing its shape) to make it more accessible is probably far easier since no math is involved.
This one?
Is the placement of the wrist band an accurate representation of where the antenna is?
Can we see your modification?
Have you moved the antenna externally?
The description of that safe says you can use the same fob across all the rapidsafe line of devices. So solid chance the rfid internals are the same across the line. Good likelihood it will work just fine if you expose the antenna since it worked on mine.
I can’t get the implant, the diagnostic card, or the field detector to interact at all. I removed the entire board and have been trying to debug it like this. The tags it came with and my drawer full of cards and tags are able to work pretty easily. That’s the main reason I’m wanting to go down the amplification route,as it seems like a power issue to me. I’m able to read and write to the implant fine with other tools. And yes it’s that exact model, and the tag placement is right on the clock face
@amal this sounds like something cool to try. Know any good docs I can check out? Or would this be in a textbook? I’m pretty good with electrical work and programming, but this is my first time venturing into radio stuff
Yeah since it’s a battery powered device it’ll prob be pretty low power.
You could look into the chips being used and see if there is any way to boost performance. For example if the reader chip has a low power mode you might be able to mod a pin to use high power or maybe a command could be sent, or even voltage could be changed to maximum input voltage. One case with a door reader recently had shit performance but it accepted 5v to 12v and it was operating on 5v… they upped the voltage to 12v and performance peaked.
Also don’t think of this as RF… it’s just a resonant inductive circuit. Think of it like a transformer. The reader is the primary and the tag is the secondary coil. That will help you see things clearer.
what’s the smallest you managed to get to work with it? a fob?
Can you confirm if it is LF or HF?
I belive it should be LF.
You sound like you know what you are doing, but i just want to make sure we are not missing something obvious.
This is your first post, so i don’t know how long you have had your implants;
*Which implants do you have?
*have you tried different approaches(swipe, tap, etc)
*with your diagnostic card, have you tried placing it behind an authenticatd card but so you can still see the LEDs (or infront)
hopefully you can confirm/try some of those so we can narrow this down for you
