If that was me, I would just buy a new phone, but not you
Thank you for your community contribution
Time, money and effort
1 Like
Appreciate it rando. Internet love still makes me fuzzy.
I did! i got the Pixel7 and still had the same issue with the Peak Design cases. If i didnt love their damn 50$ phone case so much this would have never been a project of mine.
Happy to be a part of such a community.
6 Likes
Just wanted to chime in with thanks. It has genuinely changed my life massively with how much easier it is to read the Apex with an iPhone.
Is there any way I can throw you a few bucks?
I had an order going into a PCB producer anyway, so got 5 v2.1s and 5 small v2.1s made at the same time.
I’ve seen your stickers are now available too, so I’ll be putting in an order on your Tindie store for those.
If you panelize the small v2.1s in a 5x5 array it defaults to 5 panels and it is the same cost if you got 5 individual ones made. so you basically get 125 for the cost of 5. (unless you are paying for the asembly service. Which increases the price significantly. But if you’re good at 0603 soldering or have a hotplate you are fine).
I typically wont ask for anything other than shipping for the DT members that reach out. Appreciate the support and the thought man!
3 Likes
I have a friend who wants to get an Apex but is on the fence since he has an iPhone. Could you share what model iPhone you have and where you have the repeater positioned so I can test my Apex on his phone?
Can you post photos of how / where you are placing the repeater on the iPhone?
1 Like
Here is where I have it positioned.
To be very clear, there was no scientific method applied. I just stuck it as close to the top as it would fit and it seemed to work.
In this case, it wasn’t like I could really stick it anywhere else as it’s a PCB version.
1 Like
Placing it on the outside of the case really does make a difference. I’m seeing people placing it on the inside and that’s not going to do much to improve performance with the case on
4 Likes
Thanks @Ghosts ! I’ll give it a shot 
Interesting. I didn’t think about that. Mine is on the inside of my case. It still helps quite a bit though.
1 Like
I’ve got a pack of the stickers coming but im also going to try and replicate @Hamspiced 's version with the capacitor and the left over coils from the fobs i just bought for my ug4 diy fob.
Let us know if you want any assistance =)
Thank you. Just one question. So with the fobs that @Hamspiced directed me to were 23pf capacitance (as that’s what I required at the time) and I’ve ordered some 22pf smd capacitors to use on the leftover coils. However I’ve found a ton of leftover desfire fobs in my drawer which the coils are for 17pf chips. I can only find smd capacitors in 15pf or 18pf. I’m guessing the 15pf capacitors are what I should choose?
Without a nanovna you won’t really be able to tune it great, but you can get a 18pf cap, and they usually have a +/- 10% tolerance so you may find one that is in the 17pf range
2 Likes
Yeah, aim for less capacitance or inductance than you need in all cases, cause it’s easier to add more than to remove. 15pF should be great. The tough part about dialing this stuff in is that the resonant peak shifts with the quality of the coupling. Good enough is good enough, unless you have a very specific reproducible coupling scenario.
2 Likes
Cool. let you know how i get on. Thank you.
Well I guess I learnt something new. 0603 smd capacitors are the tiniest muthafuckers.
I’m going to try them anyway. Luckily the other ones I have coming (15pF) are 1206.
1 Like
You have yet to see the 0201 stuff… But that might require a microscope.
Or hot plate.
The first round of the V2.1 I had the wrong capacitence and had to hotplate and change out all the 27pf capacitors for 33pf. It was a pain. I did a few by hand because I was out of solder paste. But it really does work wonders pulling the caps into the pads
1 Like
I have the small one from Miniware and absolutely love it.