But EMP proofing stuff regarding a strike,
is like making sure you have a life preserver when the Titanic sank…
Sure it’s better than nothing, but it’s mostly a false sense of security…
I am sympathetic to what’s going on over there, but I don’t do false security
I used to advocate and teach emergency preparedness, and nukes are bad
Imagine a Radioactive 10.0 earthquake and everything on fire… and nobody is coming to help
If you are genuinely wanting to be better prepared,
Spend the implant money on a rubber seal half mask respiratory n95, a tyvek suit, a weeks worth of food and water… nothing is going to be up to the task… but it will give you the best chance of minimizing immediate or lethal radiation poisoning… kick that can down the road as much as you can
and then hope you get REALLY lucky and can self extract otherwise your just shit out luck
Any more time effort or expense is just fantasy role play
If it’s time to prepare for a nuke, it’s time to leave
You could write your data to a USB drive, a very small one, in terms of physical size. Or even just a NAND flash chip itself and get it made into a custom implant, or make it into one yourself. People have implanted things WAY bigger than a chip or an entire flash drive into their bodies. Some have implanted entire computers into their bodies!
Okay, trust me on this, i learned this stuff. The body won’t block electromagnetic waves in the radiowave spectrum, (13,56MHz) which is where the resonace of the coil lies. Now do your walls block radiowaves a tiny bit. Your hand? I don’t think so, since the radio still plays indor with you infront of the antenna. Also your handy signal isn’t impeded by your body. The best bet at EMP proofing something is to put it in a farraday cage, aka metal enclosure. The smaller the better These chips won’t survive beeing put into a microwave, and a nuclear EMP will have similar strenght. However it’s nontheless a good idea to have the keys on an implant since then you won’t loose them. However if you are worried about emp’s keep a copy of it on a metal enclosed SD-Card, which also can hold your data directly by the way.
You may be right, but it’s important to note that electric fields are distinct from magnetic fields in a few key cases, such as RFID implants. The magnetic component of the EMP blast reduces in magnitude at the inverse cube of the distance, whereas the electric component of the EMP blast reduces at the inverse square of the distance. In addition, the LC tank circuit in these implants acts as a band pass filter only allowing a small frequency range to enter the chip (from my VNA testing 13.56MHz ± 1.5MHz). There is also ESD protection built into the silicon die.
I think many people overestimate the effect of a EMP.
They are not very well suited to destroy every little electronic device in a area.
Instead they aim to destroy the large scale infrastructure like power grids, communication networks and communication equipment with antennas.
If are close enough to absorb enough energy n your x-series tag to destroy it, the state of your implant probably isn’t much of concern for you anymore
I want to solder (a bag - a case) for personal electronics, tell me who knows what size of the cell and the thickness of the copper wire is optimal for this task? I plan to buy a mesh, but I don’t understand what cell caliber is right for my purposes as accurately as possible Condition to save devices and data in case of EMI. There is already a ground cable in the basement of the house and I plan to solder it to a box of copper mesh with electronics inside.
In Ukraine, on August 23-25, Russian Nazis are planning to arrange a missile armageddon, you can expect anything from these bastards.
I want to insure myself a little
What you want is called a Faraday cage. It can be made from almost any kind of metal, but people usually use foil or fine screen.
I used to think doomsday preppers were a little nuts, but the last couple of years have proven them a little wiser than I thought. The good news is they’ve done all the research for you.
I kind of like the last one. It’d be something that provides physical and enviromental (water) protections too.
Thanks buddy, in theory I know about the faraday cage, I would like to do it qualitatively as they say with guarantee)
I’m currently using an old metal toolbox in which I drilled a hole and bolted on a ground cable. Should work in theory
Thanks
You want to close any gaps that are the EM wavelength or larger. For broad spectrum use, that means the smallest gaps possible. Look at that last one I posted. She uses tinfoil as a gasket to seal the gaps in the lid. She also lines it with carboard to provide a barrier against the electronics touching the metal.
You can also get aluminum foil tape to cover the gaps. Just make sure the aluminum portion is connected as the adhesive doesn’t conduct.
Simply put, what I’m trying to find out is the maximum allowed cell size when using a copper mesh. i try to explain, I have a backpack in which I want to place a copper (flexible) faraday cage.
To block an em wave, the cell must be any size smaller than the wavelength of the em wave. So first you have to ask what frequencies are you trying to block? Then figure out the length of it’s wave. Finally, find material with holes smaller than that.
It might be easier to say " I have mesh fabric with holes at xxx size. What wavelengths would that block?"
If you want to cover all EM ranges, use solid sheets. Either thin metal plates or a couple of layers of foil. Just mind the gaps so they don’t let some through.
Lol, I live in a metal enclosure. Metal Siding, and metal roof. The metal roof is cool, because I can use it as an antenna =)
And there isn’t a hope in hell of receiving a radio station in here, not unless you stick an antenna out of a window. Not just in front of the window, because all of my windows are tinted, with something metallic in the tint. Wasn’t aiming for that, but it’s an unexpected perk.
Hey there, I’m new to the forum so a bit late to the party but may have a tried and tested solution for you.
Don’t ask me why but I had a similar need to carry a discreet storage system on my person.
I bought one of these:
They don’t seem to sell them anymore but you can find something similar. It is tiny, easily hidden and…you can swallow it really easily and it still works a few days later (tested it myself). A microSD card will also likely work but you’re more likely to find a USB port to plug into. Make sure you don’t include any extremely sensitive files on there in case it’s compromised.
Also, sanitise your mobile phone, if it’s anything like mine, it probably has lots of contacts on there that can be used to gain information on yourself or that can be socially engineered if your life is at risk. You probably don’t want your mother/father/loved one having to denounce the invasion and expressing their newfound love for Russia in the media.
I used a simple code for changing my numbers, just pick a single digit, for example 4, add that to any digit to obscure it’s real ID. When you get to 9 go back to 0. Don’t obscure the calling code as these are easily known and will crack your very easily crackable code.
For example 0400 456 789 becomes 0400 890 123.
And, don’t forget to turn geotagging off on your phone, better yet don’t post to social media or use your phone in safe harbour areas. I’m sure if ISIS could work out your location and direct artillery from your photos metadata then the Russians can as well.
