The anti🚫-derailment🚃 & thread🧵 hijacking🔫 thread🧵 ⁉

You’d be suprised by what a formal complaint can accomplish at a university. Start with, I’m paying xxx dollars to learn the subject matter per national standards, instead the teacher is ignoring the curriculum and presenting factually incorrect information.

Record some of the class with specific examples.

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It’s a community college, so I’m not sure what all a complaint will do. I am going to start keeping records and taking pictures of the white board. I should’ve done that today. I’ll ask a classmate to send me a pic he took that has the wrong info on the board.

Community colleges care about this a lot. They have to deal with more litigation related to meeting standards. I guarantee they’ll do what they can if you make a big enough stink.

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Talked to my classmate and told him about some outside resources to study for the national certs last week. If he and I are the only ones who pass the exams out of our EMT stand alone class and the fire academy, maybe that’ll add some weight to the complaint as well haha

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I’ve seen that from universities to flight schools…

My experience with that in Latin America has been hit or miss. Ultimately, I lost trust in educational institutions.

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I’m not sure if this is the right place to ask, but does anybody lift here? How long did y’all wait to get back into the gym? I’m thinking of an xSIID in p0 and an xg3 v2 in my knifes edge, both on the right hand.

I don’t think the p0 one would be an issue after a couple days, but I’m reading 2 weeks is best for xg3’s. Given that the bars are steel and I’m benching some 80kg, and deadlifting about 130… I’m thinking it’d be wise to wait the two weeks, but I’m hoping someone tells me it’s not necessary.

This just in
French brewery releases beer in memory of the the xG3 V1

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I’m assuming you are not competitive, just find some alternative movements, it’ll probably work out better for mixing it up, working some different and smaller muscle groups.
Shick your muscles with something new.

calisthenic alternatives are a good option

Press ups, pull ups etc.

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I’ve always waited for 2 weeks before lifting after getting an implant. Good time to do some cardio. Or do leg exercices that do not need the arms. Leg press for instance.

And usually for 2 more weeks, I take it very easy on the hands. Nothing that could put too much stress on the implantation site.

Maybe I’m too cautious.

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Thanks y’all! I only really have free weights at home, so I’ll probably head over to the gym for a bit to do some of the exercises.

Those sound like they’d still put quite a bit of stress on the knife’s edge, wouldn’t it?

Mind if I pick the more electrical peeps?

Just want a sanity check before I start messing with big crackle

I have these 3 work lights over my bench

It’s hard to tell in the picture, but each lamp has a switch on the 6’ cord, that is attached to the black beam next to it… each bulb is a 9w LED, each cord is a standard ungrounded 2 prong
so not a lot of juice but so you have all the info

The lamp cords weren’t long enough for me to route like I wanted, so I settled for running them behind the pegboard to the power strip on the bottom at a 45

I know I’m being picky, but I don’t like this setup and I wanna do it right, (I plan to back light the pegboard and the cords will draw unwanted attention)

I’d like to extend the cords so I can run them down the left side in a nice clean line

Here’s the sanity checks because I normally avoid ac if I can

  1. Is changing the cords from a 6’ cord to something like a 10-12’ cord egregiously wrong for any reason I’m overlooking… assuming proper connections and whatnot… shouldn’t be all that different than an extension cord in theory but right? (I’ll need to find a wire calculator at some point to make sure the gauge is fine for load… but I think it’s probably close to fine maybe)
  2. I was planning to open up the switch unit on the cord and simply reconnect the new wire there, instead of doing a full cut and solder mid wire… making sure that sounds fine
  3. Depending on wire gauges, I was thinking it would be even cleaner, to have each lamp only have a enough wire to all meet at a single point, and then wire them together in parallel to the single wire that would run down the wall

Thinking, right and left most lamp would have a 3’ length and meet in the middle,
Or
Right most lamp has 6’ length
Middle lamp has 3’ length
Left lamp has couple inches, and then the single wire down the wall

Sorry to bug, lemme know what you think

edit
Internet calculator results

I calculated it out with a 60watt incandescent bulb worst case… just in case?

I have an 8ft power strip that only has 14awg, now I’m second guessing either it’s cord or this math lol

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I’m pretty sure @Devilclarke was previously an electrician.

His experience will be with 230-240V but he will have the certified knowledge you are after

The best proper way would be to replace the existing cords with longer ones that are the same type. The insulation should tell you but most of the time its SPT1 or SPT2. Both are capable of handling 10 amps at up to 50 ft so that’ll be plenty for what you need. And it is best practice to keep it to separate plugs instead of joining them all together into one.

Any particular reason?

Not being argumentative, I just would prefer the cleaner single cord, only downsides I see are thicker wire gauge needed, and “harder” to reuse the lamps in a different setting
(I would plan to save the original cords in case I ever needed to revert)

A mosquito but me right on my xSIID

I just felt like you guys would understand the inconvenience

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From what I’m reading it looks like it is possible to combine them into one chord. I suggest you read section 410 of the 2017 NEC on requirements for luminaries.

I really do recommend just lengthening the chords then using small zip ties to run them together.

But why? That’s what I’m asking… I’m trusting you have your reason for saying this I’m curious to learn

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I say it because as far as my understanding of the code goes(which is admittedly limited) extensing the wires is the easiest way to go about it. Joining the 3 can be a little messy and seems to me that it is tricky to do it right.

This is not advice however, if I was in your position with the same intentions I would route a channel into the back of the wooden board the lamps are mounted to. Add a panel mount switch and a cable gland on an L braket at the end of the board then splice the three lamps together inside the channel with either crimps or weigo connectors.

Genuine question

I’m trying to keep it all sleek and minimized right?

Is a proper solder joint with heat shrink unacceptable in this situation? The various crimps and connectors are much larger and look out of place…
A butt connector I could probably slip heat shrink back over top of

If I have to use something like the lever nuts or something else bulky, in that situation, I would take your approach of just extend all 3 cords and run them down in one of those black cable wraps… just trying to clean up the setup within reason

I know very little about code, I know right?…shocking

If we’re being honest me just staring at the wire too long is probably against code

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You can do it with solder. A T-splice is probably the best for the use case. Whats most important is that the join is mechanically secure that way even if the solder melts if the wire gets too hot it doesn’t disconnect itself.

edit: What I’m referring to here is pretty much word for word from the 2017 NEC Specifically 110.14(B)

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