The antiđŸš«-derailment🚃 & threadđŸ§” hijackingđŸ”« threadđŸ§” ⁉

Best answer is “Maaaaaayyyybe
”

Most things that use an ESP8266 for brains can have ESPHome shoved down it’s throat for reprogramming, and then you can HA all over the place. A lot of other stuff does have an HA plugin for it (I had an electric mouse trap with an HA integration at one point).

Aside from that, you can link your Google Home account to HA (and back again) to be able to cross-control stuff, not sure if you can link Alexa through it though.

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MHz. I had to really widen the range.

Fair enough

The support has gotten really pretty good. You can always check the integration support here: Integrations - Home Assistant

If you’re getting started I definitely recommend going with ZigBee devices. You’ll need a $30 USB adapter and then you’re pretty much good. They have much wider support than individual brands. You also can set them up right through home assistant, as opposed to needing the manufacturers app.

I generally don’t like WiFi devices in general. Home assistant may support it but you’ll still need the manufacturer’s app to get it set up - and then there are the security issues, too many WiFi devices, etc.

Blind wise, Ikea’s should work just fine (they’re ZigBee). Sengled makes fairly cheap ZigBee RGB LED bulbs that are good quality. Philips hue is also zigbee. There are plenty of ZigBee relays and other sensors too.

I’m happy to answer any questions, I’ve been running it for a few years, though I haven’t really had time to really dive in.

Edit:
Whoops, replyed to the wrong post. Meant to get @Eriequiet

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I wouldn’t say “getting started”

More
 “am I fucking up
” “ 
and additionally fucking up by investing in more devices that can only work with corporate spyware”

I’ve probably got
3-4 plugs
6 rgb bulbs
2 rgb strip
1 rgb monitor backlight kit
3 smart blinds
1 fan combo switch
4x echos for commands, music zones, and various tasks

Planing to add, garage door command module
4-8 switch’s (4ways are a bitch)
Maybe a presence IR/microwave presence detector depending on if I can get Alexa to push commands to pc with a project I found

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Well so privacy issues aside (and I’m a huge privacy advocate), there were reports saying that Alexa is a huge loss for Amazon and its future as-is is kinda uncertain. There were talks about introducing a possible paid plan.

I’d definitely recommend going the ZigBee route with home assistant. No corporate lock in, no spying, frankly easier to manage everything. You can use home assistant to expose everything automatically to Alexa.

So basically, I wouldn’t say you’re fucking up, but I would strongly recommend against using Alexa as the backbone of your smart house ecosystem

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Full transparency: to control your house from anywhere and for the Alexa and google cloud integrations, you’ll need to subscribe to home assistant’s cloud integration plan for $6.50/month.
(There are work arounds but they’re really involved) It’s great software and directly supports the developers working on it full time so I’m happy to pay, but it should be mentioned

What brands are those?

Govee
Treatlife
Kasa

Those appear to be home assistant compatible
So, that’s good
 if/when I ever suck it up and learn to be smart enough to set up home assistant
 looks like nothing I’ve gotten yet is unusable

The genie Aladdin add on seems unconfirmed

Oh and 3 snapbot blinds

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That’s not overboard. I run an Alexa device in every room except bathrooms), one each on my deck and pergola and also my car and office: 12. 24 lightbulbs (LIFX), I think about 8 or 10 switches to control garden lighting, pool filter and lights, spa, etc. 4 ceiling fans and several mosquito zappers which are on the deck and pergola. I haven’t integrated blinds yet because I can’t easily run power to them. There will be other things I have forgotten about too
. Garage door, and several locks


Once you get started, you will not stop.

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Yea I don’t think I was overboard

I just realized I was beginning the real commitment
 and wanted to verify if I have an escape vector

I’m using the snapbot stick turners
 they have I’d guess an 18650 in each one, battery life has been excellent
 they include a solar paddle for the window that I haven’t messed with since 2 of my 3 won’t have direct sun

I haven’t charged them in 6? Months

I don’t take them down when I charge
 I just steal my longer vr usb c cable, and plug the charger near the window, and charge in situ
 3-4 hours

Needed an IR? Hub
 I was pretty pissed
 they swore up and down didn’t need a hub


“
. No hub needed 

.*unless you want any connectivity”

Fuckers

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There is no escape vector. I will be forced to pay for the Alexa subscription when they implement it, otherwise my entire house won’t work. My wife claims to hate it but loves to show it off to her friends when they drop over. My daughter hates it because she reckons whenever she goes to her boyfriends place she can’t turn on the lights or TV etc by voice
.

[quote=“Eriequiet, post:15961, topic:5860”]
snapbot stick [/quote]

thanks. I will have a look. I already have an IR blaster for the TV and set top box and aircon
. It is really sad when you start thinking about all the crap actually installed.

I wouldn’t be half as annoyed about the hub
 if it wasn’t IR based


And the units have Bluetooth/wifi in them for the app the control them directly from your phone
 but it won’t work with Alexa unless you install a hub using obsolete tech
. Wtf

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Well now I have to buy it
 I love stepping in shit


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Blows my mind that these companies don’t pay some random college kid 100$ to proofread their shit

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Stupid question while we are semi on home automation stuff


Any quick and dirty ways to get a device like a tower fan or an air filter or any other random plug type device to work with a smart plug, when its default plugged in behavior is “off”

Purely analog things like a box fan are easy
 set the switch
and use a smart plug


But the device where it cycles thru power settings from a push button, and doesn’t retain state seems like a no win scenario


I guess you could wire up a little esp32 and solder it to a button to simulate taps
 but that’s probably more hassle than it’s worth

Also those little Switchbot button pushers I guess
 but they seem pricey and need a hub

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Or with an IR blaster if the device has a remote


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Yeah. Bypass the switch and hard solder depending on how it is set up. I did it with a fan controller. I only have one speed and it is the fastest one.

Very messy.

IR if available is likely the easiest but still messy.

Who named a hurricane Debbie?
And furthermore, why isn’t there a single reporter writing the headline “Debbie Does Charleston (again)”?

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