Any feedback regarding ABS and ASA?
Abs is kinda like nylon but not quite as high of heats
But if there’s drafts or not enclosed heat it will crack or warp
Also abs has some fumes
Asa I’ve heard is getting popular and has good properties
I just usually print in pla, unless I need it more durable and then I print in petg
The thing with creality to be aware of, is while the heater can reach a temp, that doesn’t mean it’s good to go… usually it’s a ptfe hot end, so the ptfe buts directly agains the nozzle IN the heater block… up to 215-230ish is fine for ptfe… but hotter and ptfe starts to burn and decompose and that’s bad juju
There as various ways you can make the hot end “all metal” which is what you want
@enginerd do you have any microcenter near you?
2 Likes
Just got the forge finished (finally).
I started off with a round piece of 2" bar stock, cut to length. Will eventually become a 2lb hammer.
Makes me think of the “How to train your Dragon” quote.
“Molten Steel, Razor Sharp Blades, Lot’s of Time to Himself, What could possibly go wrong?”
Also, bored me is dangerous me. Just FYI.
5 Likes
I got myself an ender 3 v2.
I wasn’t expecting much for 200 quid but i cant tell you how impressed i am with it.
The quality is fantastic on standard settings.
So much open source stuff to download. And blender is quite straightforward with a couple of youtube tutorials I soon had the basics.
I guess it depends what you want it for but this is plenty good enough for what i need.
Pic of my recent prints downloaded from thingiverse/printables. Bacteriophage pen holder and nasa chainmail material because why not?
5 Likes
This looks kinda cool:
Here’s a print that some of you might find useful:
https://www.printables.com/model/340077-proxmark3-easy-slim-case
4 Likes
Its a nice design, and it looks like the LF antenna has been recessed into the material so that should help with reading LF xSeries
Personally, I would fully expose the LF antenna, just due to how difficult it can be to read; Likely also with the HF antenna on the bottom face.
I do like how it protects it though, it looks like you could just throw it in a backpack or similar and it would be fine
1 Like
It’s also less threatening to non hackers
Print it standing on the “nose” with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Does that mean like this, or flipped 180 so it’s standing on the skinnier section?
I also would have thought NOSE was the 180⁰ of that, however, printing it your way, gives it the same print path as shown in the example, plus it will not require supports for the underhang, therefore: cleaner build, less work, less material, less time, less post processing.
…
ie.
2 Likes
Haha
I’m trying it with the position in my screenshot. If it doesn’t work out, I’ll flip it around.
The stl had it laying flat on it’s bottom side when I opened it in Cura so I have to flip it one way or the other.
I’m an idiot. I didn’t think about the top of it 
It fits though! A little too well I can’t get it back out XD
You can always scale it up 1-2%
2 Likes
Yeah, I’ve got it printing again on it’s nose.
1 Like
Let me know how the nose print goes. Hopefully it can still read glassies in it.
I’m planning to get an RDV4 eventually so please don’t judge me for being both a cyborg and a hacker and not having a Proxmark 
1 Like
A post was merged into an existing topic: The anti:no_entry_sign:-derailment:railway_car: & thread:thread: hijacking:gun: thread:thread: 
nvm, think I figured it out.
Gotta slow down
Make sure your not over extruding
Make sure you have proper minimum layer times
Drop the heat a bit if possible
Also try printing only 1 part at a time, so no travel hop zits… a million settings for travel and retractions… you can ignore all this by printing one at a time
3 Likes