What are you making ⚒️ / 3D printing 🖨

More gridfinity, designed a few of these myself

I use thelse little harbor freight 4mm drivers all the time,
Designed a holder to hold 2 drivers, with 4 positions possible, empty and stored, and “in use” with a bit in it… but it sits higher so you know a bit is hiding in there
also holds and extension and a micro bit to 1\4’’ adapter

I like this little butane soldering iron, I don’t use it for the iron but rather as a quick hot air gun for quick little jobs where I don’t wanna spend a few minutes digging out the hot air gun and setting it up and let it warm up and cool down…. But I also can’t get away with just being a savage and using a straight blowtorch :joy::innocent:
I added a couple spots for the tips… I only ever received the one with my kit… even though I won’t use them the completionist in me wants to get the other tips just to fill the slots…. That … I made… for tips I don’t have… hang on…wtf lol :joy:

1x1x3 holds 10 1/4” hex bits, could have gone more but I wanted to sub group since you don’t usually need every type at the same time
Also made spacers to let them stack with other stuff

my little helping hands design, comes in 1,2,4,8 hands
uses 12ga solid cord wire and aligator clips… remarkable solid
that multitool weighs 3\4 pound, or for @Pilgrimsmaster just a smidge more than the average human heart

I tweaked a pick holder from a preexisting design and I make a holder for deburring tools


Obico can do time lapses as well but it does ai assisted failure detection.

Someone had a very similar design, but didn’t have a standard version, and their metric version didn’t match the metric set I had or usually see

thanos voice

Fine then, I’ll do it myself

Tolerances were a bit tricky but managed to nail it first shot


You’re set up is coming together, looking nice!

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Bites and nibbles I think I forgot to take pics of 3-5 additions

The nice thing about the system being modular, it removes a LOT of the analysis paralysis

All of these tools I use at one point or another…

I don’t have to worry about the “perfect” layout because I can change it on the fly to adjust for whatever project or shenanigan I’m up to

If it’s not clear, I’m using a basic color scheme for the pieces
Black will always be bottom grids
White is currently part storage… I’m not married to it
Green will be adhesive/attachment
Blue is electrical
Orange is tools…maybe dremel stuff…
Grey is detail or post processing

Admin/writing marking/ parts baggies will possibly be red

I forget who accused my desk of looking too clean…
it just cleans up quickly lol


This Guy GIFs | Tenor


This… I knew there was something

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Should I get a PEI bed for my printer? The one that came with the Ender does not last as long when you print a lot of ABS and ASA.

Also, what about FR-4 beds? That material should be easy to get.

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PEI is absolutely worth it, as long as it’s on a spring steel sheet. It’s made a huge difference with my overall printer experience. Everything sticks super well, releases easily, and it seems very durable.


I kinda wanna get a VAAPR bed for my ender, I’ve already tinkered with automatic part
Ejection before, and getting a “fall off the bed” level of release is difficult to do consistently with glass
( I have it now but it can come and go)

But I’ve heard it’s super easy to wreck and it’s absurdly over priced given they’ve kept its secret sauce secret

Working on some fiber optic adapters :grin:


I tested a sheet of FR-4 as a print bed and it worked rather well after a bit of sanding. And the part popped off on it’s own when the bed cooled.

I thought that it was going to fail at first as the raw sheet was a too slick to have decent adhesion. But I has 240 grit sandpaper at hand and this fixed my problem.

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I’ve been thinking about getting a plane old piece of glass as a bed for my Ender. But reliability comes and goes with these machines from what I’ve seen…

I love the glass on my ender. I tried a few build plate but the only exception be that hold up and works consistently is the glass.
The part doesn’t pop off on its own, but a gentle tug get it loose most of the time. Never damaged a part trying to take it off the bed.

The one thing g to point out that no one ever seam to mention is the spray you put on the glass. I use Suave Max Hold unscented. Anything else has hit and miss results.

It does take a bit longer to preheat the bed, but if that’s an issue get a cheap picture frame and cut it to size, the glass will be thinner and get to temp faster (and no, they don’t break over time with heating and cooling, that’s a gimmick from the printer manufacturer to sell you fancy expensive glass)


I use glass now, I can get it to fall off levels of release,pretty much you need to
run a few degrees hotter bed
Spray bed with ipa
Spray bed with pva
Wipe most off with a water dampened papertowel
Extremely fine control of initial Z height
( I have a little printed mod, that moved your z home switch up and down by screw thread, so once you are perfectly leveled, if you want a smidge more or less squish )

I do a weird thing where I set myself up for way too much squish, and then I dial in a -.03 initial horizontal layer expansion to remove excess elephants foot


Why have I never thought of 3D printing dice before lmao, you’re a genius, and also that turned out very nice.

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Yeah, been there, what a crazy night

Is there a mod with a tof sensor on the print head instead of a Z switch? I feel like it could make things way less tedious

I level my bed about every spool … and add spray every 1 to 2 spools …

I find changing filament the most tedious part of the whole process … If/when I change printer it’s definitely going to be with a multi-filament system so I can have a few different materials and color ready to go :+1:

I wrote some gcode to semi automate filament changes on my ender

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