Didn’t make anything in particular, but just got done desoldering the rest of the switches from the junk keyboard that I used to make that macro pad a while back.
Took a while, but just used my pinecil, some old 60/40 rosin core solder, and a screwdriver. Put a little fresh solder on each pin, pushed on the plastic pin on the back with the screwdriver, and heated both contacts by holding my iron sideways. Worked great once I got in the flow of it, took me about 30 minutes to desolder all the switches. Picking them up off my floor took a while though lol, they went everywhere. Also had to put my silicone mat on the floor to catch the dripping solder.
Planning on maybe making a guitar controller for Clone Hero using these + a Pi pico + my 3D printer.
For some background, my great aunt gave me a skillet that belonged to my great grandmother and likely my great great grandmother before that. It was made from 1906-1916, somewhere in that range (can identify it based on the logo and text). Well over 100 years old.
Absolutely disgusting. Super dirty, tons of caked on carbon (can barely see the Griswold logo), and even some paint splatter. Been hanging in the kitchen for the better part of two decades (my great grandma died in the early 2000s). The outside was covered in spiderwebs and dust so thick that it didn’t wipe off, and was super rocky from the carbon.
Starting to see the cooking surface now haha. Looks like barely any pitting if any at all.
Will probably take another hour or two, maybe three, before it’s completely down to bare iron. That black carbon is so hard and thick on the outside that it’s taking a while to soften.
My other pans aren’t quite as bad, and should be much quicker.
I also had to wipe off the anode, which sped things back up quite a bit.
Fun fact: Due to the sheer amount of bacon fat and lard that was used in this pan, I could smell a rancid meat smell after I first put it in the e-tank. Gross.
Electrolysis is going again. Biggest problem so far has been finding a good sacrificial anode. The baking tray I used had a coating on it, and I attempted to scrape it off, but didn’t have a clean surface. It was behaving odd overall, with the current dropping off very quickly, even after cleaning.
My dad gave me a chunk of steel a while ago for this purpose, but it was small, and covered in mill scale. It didn’t work at all.
Thankfully, my dad is a welding instructor, with a ton of steel at his disposal. He welded together a 14"x14" plate of 3/8" steel, cleaned it til it was completely shiny, and welded a nut on top to get a good connection.
Just started it up, and it’s working tremendously better. With the old baking tray, it was only drawing like 2-3 amps of current, and rapidly fell off, going down to under 2 amps. Was seeing little progress after the initial clean.
It’s now maxing out my supply, and staying at 5.1 amps (constant current mode, going down to like 10.5 volts). Seems to be way more consistent, and the oxide layer formed looks a lot cleaner. I was getting some weird green layer when I used my baking tray, despite no copper being present in the electrolyte.
EDIT: I have to edit this one b/c I can’t post more than 3 consecutive replies lol
Still doing another layer of seasoning, maybe two, but have two layers on it, and it’s looking really nice especially compared to before…
I need to put together a lye tank though. Electrolysis is great for removing rust, not so much for removing the carbon. A lye tank would take off all of the carbon much much easier, but doesn’t remove rust. So most do lye then electrolyte. There’s still a few nooks and crannies on this one I’d like to get clear, but nothing too bad.
I wonder if anyone has looked into using electrolysis to pull carbon off a suppressor…. That is a whole niche into itself…
Random electronics questions for 3D printer modding
Can you get led ribbon in 24v? It looks like it, but I just want to make sure the ribbon is actually 24v and it isn’t just a 12v ribbon with a step down converter
I want a litte 24v led light smack dab on print head underside, and printer is 24v and I’d rather keep
Voltage native if possible
Second question, can I install a potentiometer or a rheostat (I can’t remember the difference at the moment) in series with a led ribbon to vary brightness? I keep seeing stuff about needing various resistors and my caveman with a soldering iron brain doesn’t get it
Only of your ribon has three dull LEDs… You need some electronics if you want to control an LED strip that’s actually useful.
The easiest way is probably to modify an off the shelf buck converter module and replace the trimmer pot on it with a larger potentiometer. Maybe with a resistor in series if you can’t find 24V LED strips.
What is it you are trying to accomplish? To me it sounds like you dont want to run a 12v to your print head.
What i would do… put a 24-12v buck converter off of your heater power. Wire it to an ESP8266, install wled on esp8266, wire however many LEDS you want to it. you can then controll brightness from your phone. in parts you may be spending, 8$.
Yea arduino and micro controllers in general and I are super oil and water, I’d sooner ditch the entire thing than try to mess with those…. I’m sure I could figure them out if my life depending on it… but juice isn’t worth the squeeze for me
I’m just looking for a led brighter and lower analog knob… I think I found something I can use
especially compared to before…
