@Eriequiet I got my hands on an Ender 3 S1 Pro and almost immediately began to break the SD card slot.
Do you know of anyway to update firmware on the Enders without the SD card, or am I stuck with learning how to use a SWD programmer?
Maybe it’s fixable? You probably just bent some little metal piece
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That one has a full size SD card slot. Ask Amal to adjust your force sensors, those things are hard to break! (Also, tell him that I want to the same upgrades)
And that machine has a proprietary motherboard with connectors for the ribbon cables used on the Sprite extruder. So replacing it isn’t as easy as on the regular Ender 3.
This is also why Prusa started using USB ports instead of SD cards, it’s a stronger connector.
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The pins don’t look bent, no matter how I jiggle the SD card in the slot, I can’t get a read. 
Honestly I’d just use octoprint
I know you can push firmware to it via usb octoprint
I need to update mine to marlin 2.0 but I’m absolutely shit and worthless at compiling firmware so I just put it off
Also, assuming it’s the same 4.2.7 board it’s a fairly cheap replacement, like 39$ I think
Remember I’m the idiot who broke my usb port off my lightsaber board, so I’m the wrong to ask about fixing a port lol
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I thought Octoprint just pushed the firmware to the SD card and reset the printer. If it’s $39 that’s not bad!
Lol not looking to fix the SD card slot, just wanting to update firmware. I’d hook it up to Octoprint to print anything.
Remember, I’m garbage about firmware, but as I remember… you always had to plug in via usb to update firmware…. Issue with the original 8bit boards was it didn’t have enough room / didn’t have a bootloader on the board? So you had to add one first etc etc
I’ve heard the octoprint method works good,
Octoprint doesn’t typically talk to the sd card because for some reason it’s insanely slow to load stuff onto the sd card…
Remember you don’t NEED a raspberry pi to run octoprint, you can run it off your computer or a phone if it has the usb connection thing (iPhone so I don’t know anything about it lol)
The only catch is, computers are bad for octoprint because windows loves to restart or do updates and that WILL ruin your prints… but to just do an update that would work
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Oh shit, kick ass! Thank you!!
I found the boards on Amazon. Can’t wait to get this thing back home and set up!
If I’m being honest, at least 10% of the reason I’m getting a bambu x1… is just so I can permanently put off trying to figure out how to update to marlin 2.0 lol 
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I might buy a Prusa Mini+ for similar reasons. Ok, installing Marlin 2.0 is not that hard, keeping the screws tight and the parts aligned on an Ender is a different story… But this only matters if you need precision…
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Installing? Sure
Compiling it?
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An excellent (And slightly old) guide to Marlin setup.
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I have a stock ender 3 motherboard I can send you. I upgraded to a silent board so I don’t need this in one
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I have a silent board also…
If you’re going the raspberry pi route, I recommend klipper with fluids and Moonraker instead of octoprint. At that much effort octoprint will be your bottleneck.
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If I remember correctly, I can’t run linear advance because of my board not having the right drivers
I’m not super into klipper, octoprint is more for convenience than replacing Marin for me
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Easy. I think that the guide that Aoxhwjfoavdlhsvfpzha posted should help you out.
And creality didn’t connect the drivers in a way that’s useful for Marlin’s linear advance so it doesn’t matter if you have the right chips on one of their boards.
Add that to the list of things that I don’t like about chinise printers…
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Exactly…. Which is why I’m getting a bambu lab x1
…hmm now that I think about that brand name 
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Yeap… It is what you are thinking… And comes with telemetry… That leaves Prusa and Ultimaker. And I think that my next printer will either be a DIY Voron or a European machine…
For better or worse……
…meh
If it works it’s fine