You are correct about the borosilicate glass, but the cheap frames have a thiner glass wich heat up faster … been using the same sub$10 glass for a few years now with no warp or clipping 
Is that the good stuff?
I work a lot with older pneumatic system and a lot of them have propriety seal that. Have been out of production for 20-40 years …
That’s the cheap stuff. The expensive stuff is the Formlabs 50A stuff that’s $200 per liter.
I’ll use the $30 per half liter for the R&D, then switch to Formlabs stuff. It’s a project with a friend who came up with the idea so he wants the fancy shmancy stuff, but we both agreed on cheap first since I’m still new to resin printing and will probably burn through a bottle before we’re good to go lol
I had a piece of “regular” glass I had cut to size eventually shatter from heat cycling
I used Creality’s glass for the longest time
Just a few months ago I swapped to a G10 bed and it’s everything everyone told me glass would be, perfect part adhesion with no hair spray or anything, just an occasional cleaning
The parts pop off as soon as it cools down, and it leaves a perfect bottom
Except:
It not solid like glass, so now all the low spots on my bed come through to the print and make leveling a pain. Can be fixed though
I have also heard it can be too sticky for some materials, but with PLA and TPU it works extremely well
Yea that’s a thing for glass too,
A second sheet of regular glass I adhered petg way too good and it broke before letting go
I make sure to hair spray a good layer of petg
Alcohol if I want a clean release of pla for automated part ejection
2x200W + 2x100w amp. Large pioneer speakers and tweeters and smaller JBL subwoofers.Looks awesome!!
Been working through a 10 year project and just getting around to piecing it together.
10 years ago I got ahold of a Graflex 3cell flash. Spent on and off 3 years gettinging all the parts to make it as close to a screen replica as I could.
About a month ago I started on the crystal chamber build.
Been doing a lot of work on weathering and adding brass and copper embellishments before I do all the wiring.
That’s bad ass! Looking good!
Is that a toroidal inductor? It looks awesome!
I think that’s what I was going for with the embellishments. It’s just a bunch of right angle network cable copper hot pressed into the 3d part
I think that everyone and their dog has an Ender 3 nowadays…
But there are a few things about these chinise printers that don’t give a lot of confidence. Making sure that the X axis is perpendicular to the Z axis is not trivial but only matters if you care about precision. The plastic extruder has a reputation for being rather fragile. And creality lacks attention to detail on several fronts.
At times I wonder if I should’ve bought a Prusa Mini or something along those lines? I don’t know, I’m not unhappy with the Ender but I might eventually look somewhere else for my next printer.
I’ve had my ender 3 for more than 4 years. It’s been covered in dust, packed, crossed the Atlantic, operated in the most humid and warm environments. I’ve never, ever done any maintenance whatsoever (I know I’m a monster) and yet somehow it still prints as expected.
Based on that I would say it’s a good product even though I’ve never tried the other ones. To me it’s like the Toyota pickup truck of printers.
The only shitty part was the plastic bed which can easily be changed for glass 
Edit: I even blocked the z-axis with the spool holder once and it made crazy noises yet survived.
I’ve got 5 years of printing out of my OG ender 3
Currently my x stepper just went out, need to replace
I’m Like 90% decided to get a x1 carbon end of the year with bonus monies
I feel like it’s time to get a big boy printer, and I really want multi material, and their ams looks actually good and reliable
I hope I can minimize material waste, I’m seeing their purge multiplier is very high stock , and can be dropped down to like x0.3 or something like that and still be good
I’m also consider getting some silicone molds and melting down the purge poop pellets the x1 carbon makes…. Should actually make for easier melting since it’s a nice light and uniform size
I’d love to make a silicone mold for the large potato gun type pellets I use out of my can cannon, but idk how I’d make a 2 part mold given some of its geometry
A clam shell with a hinge?
Maybe a locking mechanism on the side or opposite end to the hinge
Lemme find a pic of it
No good pictures of the tail section
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3077740/remixes
The tail / skirt is a cone, like a badminton shuttlecock
There exists a mold by the same author, but it’s completely solid tail section and I printed one like that once and it didn’t fly very good… bad center of mass
I’ve had to unclog my Ender 3 several times but making sure that there’s pressure on the back of the PTFE tube solved this. And now the fitting that holds it place is cutting into the tube… The roller mounts for the X axis leave a lot to be desired in the precision department, I’ve had the bed come loose three times already…
But it still prints well as long as you don’t ask for too much precision and stick to PLA. You can even do ABS but you have to ask it nicely…
I’m not going to judge, but I’m also not going to ask…
Never any big issues with my ender 3.
First thing I did was install klipper, get a micro swiss hot end, and magnetic build plate. But it treats me good.
I also replaced the extruder, build plate, bed springs, etc…
And the high flow hotend that I tried gave me a lot of problems… Although I’m more of a Marlin fan.
I’m not going so say that I’m having big issues, but there’s enough friction and things to adjust to make me think that my next printer should be either a Prusa or a DIY Voron. Assuming that the european manufacturer makes something that doesn’t have the alignment and trimming issues of Creality.
I’ve never had alignment issues. Out of the box everything was square.
I also did forget to mention. I had issues with the hot end when doing my test prints but that was completly resolved with a micro swiss , but I went a step further and added thermal compound to the hot end going into the micro swiss.
Klipper reduced my print times by about half. That was enough to convert many friends, not to mention I finally had a use for one of the many raspberry Pi’s I had laying around.
