Did one of the biggest prints I’ve done in a while. Every year around the holidays, the place my dad volunteers at collects donations to make gift bags for the homeless (with socks, food, blankets, etc).
They needed a dedicated box to collect donations. Didn’t need to be ultra secure or anything, it’ll be emptied often, just needed to stop people from grabbing a few bucks when no one was looking.
Designed and printed this. Printed in 8-9 hours all together on my P1S. Used some super cheap black PLA I forgot I had, from years ago. Not the best looking, but it works. Most of my rolls are under half full, this one was around half full. Proud of the design for the lid, it locks in with fins, and there’s a bar on the inside to stop it from moving back and forth. With the lock removed, it pulls up and slides out. The entire box printed without supports, with some really nice bridging for the area where the lid slides in. The overhang is at a 45 degree angle to support itself, and I made each slot short enough to reduce sag.
This is how much filament was left after printing the box and lid…
I have a Bigtreetech SKR MINI E3 v3 in mine but I’m running Marlin instead of Klipper. I’m also waiting for the CR Touch that I ordered from china, along with a PEI bed…
I like that this is one of the few boards that let you control all 3 fans. The PSU fan still runs all the time but this quiets the machine a lot.
I’ve decided to officially put my Ender 3 Pro out to pasture… also known as my shed.
I thought I would still use it alongside my P1S, but haven’t even turned it on in weeks. With the silent mainboard it’s a lot more usable, but the fan noise at idle stops me from keeping it on, which means I end up defaulting to my P1S which just works.
I might break it out in a few months to mess around with Klipper more, but at the moment, I have no desire.
It takes up a ton of room on my dresser, which can be put to better use.
Sidenote: I’m officially starting to save for an AMS for my machine, which is exciting.
You have octoprint on it?
Mine uses a relay for power control, and turns on for a print and auto offs after a print
End of the year can’t come soon enough for my to drop my bonus on a x1c
I’m looking at a few tweaks to drastically decrease material waste on filament change
Adding a partial retraction before filament cut, (adjusted to keep molten blob from pulling back too far) is a big thing I’m curious on, a few people have done it, but I haven’t seen a lot of documentation
CR Touch installed! And this is the first time that I manage to print ASA without warping!
I also got a CHT nozzle so that might be related to my ASA success. I also ordered a PEI bed, I hope that it arrives soon.
modify your start gcode to do a basic level every print and you really dont have to worry about leveling again often.
In Fluidd, i have settings for Adjust Screws, that does a level at the screw mount points and it will tell me how many turns clockwise or counterclockwise to have a level buildplate. its a nice feature. but i do a full bed mesh once every week or so. makes life so much better.
I am so behind on posting my 3D printer shenanigans
G29, that’s the first thing I did…
Marlin also has a bed traming wizard that lets you mesure all four corners with the ABL probe.
I’m keeping Marlin on my Ender 3, building a core x-y printer is enough Klipper for the time being… And I like that Marlin can run standalone on the printer without having to add an additional computer like a Raspberry PI or something along those lines…
I love the PEI bed. Between that, a dual gear extruder, and the CR Touch, I finally have a printer that I can forget about and not come back home to a pile of plastic spaghetti.
Sadly, I wasted some money on a high flow hotend that turned out to be very unreliable. And I realize that I would’ve avoided a lot of pain if I had bought the E3 v2 Neo instead, but creality has way too many versions of the same printer and this is very confusing.
Printed an awesome Quest 3 controller wall mount I found on Printables. Printing a headset mount next.
My BoboVR case doesn’t fit the Quest 3 very well, and I haven’t sold my Quest 2 yet, so my Quest 3 has just been floating around my room. I put it on my bed during the day, and move it to my desk when it’s time to sleep.
It’ll be nice to finally have a good spot for it. I don’t travel with mine much anymore anyways, so the wall is a better spot for it.
Printing a wall mount for my Xbox controller as well (I use it for PC platforming games)
A post was merged into an existing topic: Gaming Lounge
Really happy with this one.
Altoid tin daily pill organizer. One slot for every day of the week, with an extra slot (I put aspirin and Tylenol in the extra spot). I wanted one now that I’m on several meds, to make my daily routine easier. I was going to buy one, but found an altoid tin while cleaning, and checked Printables. Lo and behold.
For anyone curious about the meds:
Loratadine and montelukast for allergies, losartan for high blood pressure, omeprazole for acid reflux, and venlafaxine for anxiety/depression/somewhat ADHD.
Printed these super cute beer crate battery holders, one AA and one AAA. Printed both at the same time, took 2 hours.
Needed a simple way to hold and organize my batteries, particularly my eneloops. Didn’t have a good spot to keep my rechargeables when off of the charger, and needed to seperate them from the alkalines.
They really are cute,
I have shared this before, I have one of these ( Bought one not printed), but the design could be tweaked to suit individual battery needs. Although, It is definately not cute
But just thinking those crates would be just a little cooler with a simple little battery meter implemented in them
I have recently worked with Worbla for the first time - it really is an amazing material! It’s some non-toxic thermoplastic stuff (usually used for cosplay and the like), you can heat it with a heatgun and it gets very flexible, but it’s pretty sturdy when cold again. Best thing is, you can repeat that process indefinitely, so every little part of it can be recycled, you can re-shape things to make them fit better, you can re-heat parts of your project to glue things to it (when heated, it’s very sticky, so you don’t need glue at all). It can be painted, grinded, polished, perforated (with the right tools at least) and even decorated with pyrography.
Well… I started small and just designed a perfectly fitting headband to attach my cyberloxx to (I actually designed four of them in different colours, but only one is finished by now ). I painted it with a black base coat and a lot of glowy colour, glued some cyber-y things on it (yeah, I love my little cliché goggle ) and then spent quite some time cursing while I tried to actually attach the cyberloxx to it. Finally won that battle, and I’m quite happy with the outcome.
The remaining three designs are another black one, inspired by some sort of postapocalyptic cyber-shaman (like, feathers, runes, fake animal skulls and all that stuff, but still a bit futuristic), a unicorn-y one (though most likely with two horns) with pastel colours and maybe white feathers and the like, and a dark deep-sea style with some shells, tentacles and golden colour accents.
Tbh, I really love the base headband for that deep-sea style - I was aiming for a kinda “marbled” optic, and I’m really surprised how well this can be achieved with just acrylic paint.
Have you ever tried rub and buff? I use it a lot on different 3d prints for layered textures and it works so unbelievably well. Its fantastic both in application and removal if you want to start over.
I have made a tiny mod to this
Thanks for the idea @Eriequiet
I kinda want to make some stickers and vandalize the cut to length wire section at the big box hardware stores.