Some gentle heating with a butane torch did the job
thanks!
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Finally just broke down and did it.
Got me an Ender 3 Neo, and a spool of PLA.
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Welcome to your new addiction.
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Dumb setup questions. Printer won’t be here 'till the 3rd.
I’d like a cabinet, mostly for dust / cleanliness. This got me to wondering if it would be advantageous to heat it for a more controlled environment. I was thinking 80 degrees F air temp?
Maybe a small exhaust fan if it gets too hot?
LED’s of course. And a heavy enough table to prevent rocking.
What do you all think? Overkill? Am I missing something I’m going to want?
Actively heating the chamber is unnecessary at that level of machine… material you’ll need a heated chamber for will likely need hotter nozzle temps than that machine will run stock
The chamber heating ambiently from the printer isn’t bad, can make some stuff worse and some stuff better
Pla level stuff your typically trying to actively cool it to make it come out sharper and cleaner (this usually results in less strength tho)
Petg ABS ASA those type of materials don’t like to be actively cooled much, and like warm non drafty environments
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I built my enclosure out of 2 IKEA lack tables and some plexiglass I got on Facebook marketplace for cheap. I needed it to keep the noise down because the ender 3 was pretty noisy from the start. But I doubt you’ll have the same issue as me
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i’m just starting some paint by numbers art
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Hmmmm, this feels very spammy.
Can you provide more info before I delete you and your post
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why its spammy ?
It’s your first and only post and it links to a commercial site with a weak association to the entire theme and context of the forum. That’s why it feels spammy.
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Browsing Printables and found some more gridfinity for your work shop lol
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AMS unit doesn’t like cardboard spools from what I hear… so I printing the respooling work of art… it adjusts its feed left and right by gear so it wraps quite nicely…. An involved print tho
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+1 for overture filament
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Solid!
I especially enjoyed the bit of how even if you’re not willing to try this out yourself, you will benefit. That’s the beauty of an open source group adding features they want in parallel to the devs in the business.
Now, if only Canon had paid attention to Magic Lantern, DSLRs might still have a future.
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Wanted to test multi colors on a horizontal format,
And figured this would be a fun print I can give to a coworker
Ironing added quite a bit of time to the large print, but worth it, you can’t see wall lines, only very very slight imperfections in the ironing; think I still need another couple % of flow for that
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Something people with bambu may find interesting
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This is relatable:
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sort of related to the above but also general thread…
took another shot at melting down filament scraps, this time I tried to learn some lessons from last time
lowered temp and even though it took a lot longer
tried to tamp material into mold occasionally to help force out bubbles from mold surface
let it cool like glass, turned it down a bit and let it equalize, then turned it down another chunk and let it equalize… added 2 hours to the process, but prevented it from contracting on a molten core and equalized stresses in the material
this thing looks sick
I absolutely want to figure out how to machine the bottom of this to accept an attachment, and maybe make a pimp cane \ voodoo staff
surface is near flawless… only 1 bubble on the right eyebrow… a little bit of sanding/filing on the bottom and bottom edges but nothing major
obviously 99% of people are just using these skull molds,
this has just been validation of concept for me… long term I’m going to figure out something actually useful and melt my scrap into that…
3d print a positive, make a high temp silicone mold using… melt in filament
be it ammo for my can cannon, or knife scales for selling… etc…
the next step is going to be try to grind failed prints down… (this was bambu poops)
I’m also considering attempting to use a large metal or silicone if possible funnel above mold to act as a larger hopper or sorts…
constantly opening and closing oven to add a small amount of plastic was annoying… being able to put a large scoop in the funnel and let it melt down it would be nice…
curious to see if it will mix colors more, but also hoping it will help prevent bubbles also
considering also maybe melting down color matched chunks into an ice cube tray, before hand, for large color chunks in the mold
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Depending on the material, drying the scraps could prevent bubbles.
I’m assuming that you’re using PLA and that’s a plastic that’s not as sensitive but it does absorb some moisture and it does bubble occasionally because of it.
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