Spent a couple hours last night designing my pcb power thing…
From some rough measurements I took on Thursday I was able to build it out nearly exact… pogo pin distance and everything looks good
Except I measured with the part upside down and the pins are on the right….
… but then you have to flip it over to mount to the unit… and then they need to be on the right
Gun peeps might recognize or piece something’s together, but let’s keep the mystery intact
Yes there are 2 switches… just showing options for when they are forced to make make their own tools
The 6 blind holes on the top part will receive a threaded heat insert, 4 for sealing the unit, 2 for mounting part from top
Probably heatcreep. The toolhead on the Ender 3 is not great at cooling the heatsink to begin with, so it’s not that hard for things to go wrong if the fan is old or dirty. And that’s why I recommended a fan shroud on my previous post.
It’s Ender OEM. It appears to be functionally identical to the metal teeth type, but I can’t get the angioplastied tube out of it. I went with a new tube and bi metal heat sink.
The melty is probably self inflicted idiocy. I’d previously noticed that the nozzle temps were jumping around, and it shut down once over it. A PID autotune fixed it, but I didn’t do it until AFTER it had it’s little meltdown / jammup.
Wait, so you have one of the Ender 3 Neo variants? Those have a nicer hotend.
Those collets are way better than the fittings with metal teeth but you have to push down on the tube as you insert the blue clip that holds everything in place. And said clip must be installed for the tube to be held in place correctly.
Cut the tube and pull it from the threaded side with the blue clip removed.
That’s probably what happened, hotends can clog if the fan stops running while the whole thing is hot. But the way that filament swelled up in there is new to me.
Tried, tried really hard. It’s a permanent resident now.
Also, I cut the new tube too short. When it tried to move to the opposite side it jumps and skips. Rookie mistake.
It’s REALLY difficult to get the filament in the last little bit. I’ve had to pull the tube loose from the hot end and then fish around while poking and prodding for awhile before it finally consents to go that last tiny bit. Then re-attach tube to hot end.
Make sure that the bowden tube is inserted all the way and that there’s no debris in the hotend, I had a similar problem not that long ago because a tooth broke off the cupler and ended in the bimetal heatbreak.
Drilling out the filament might work. In any case, let me know if you find a place that sells those threaded collet fittings.
big thanks for posting about this. Since i did these tests i have essentially doubled my printing speeds. wasnt aware how much faster i could be pushing this ender3 until i did this. appreciate you.
Glad that I could help. And also thank you for not telling me to go slow on the Ender 3 and stay in “my lane” like the people from 3D printing forums did…
Cyborgs are definitely better people
I’m a hacker and I really appreciate you guys!
I wanted to get as close as I could to Voron speeds on mine while still getting great print quality and the limit is the hotend right now. Doing this also made me start to like my Ender 3, especially after I did a direct drive conversion.
The lowest portion was full on melted. The swelled areas appear to be where the tubing softened and expanded in places where it had no side support. If you look there were two bulged areas, making it hard to extract either direction. I’d say the plugged/melt came all the way to the top of the fitting. Possibly heat conduction by aluminum of fitting.
The ones with metal teeth also have a gasket and some other parts that are there to guarantee a good pneumatic seal. But they cut into the PTFE tube and things get loose over time.
Definately replace with capricorn ptfe. has a much higer melt temp and you wont experience this as frequently.
I have capricorn running all over my rig, from drybox through my enclosure all the way into the hotend. I have 2 openins for the runout sensor and extruder, but the filament is encased in the capricorn tubing from the start.
