More like unable to consistently reach high enough temp. Really need to insulate everything, but that defeats the purpose of my built from junk design.
I could build a cupola. But it mixes fuel and metal, which I was trying to avoid.
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Have you tried heads and valve cover?
I fired mine up for the first time last night, drying the rigidizer and hopefully the crucible 
I’ll try to actually melt metal today
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I actually tested it with a stretched metal screen. If it had worked, I could have cut cylinder heads in half and melted them and the screen would have caught the still solid steel valve seats. Good cast aluminum is not to be sneezed at, if you can use it.
I’m gonna rethink it, but options are either, absolutely pour the heat to it (3-4x burners and tanks) or insulate it, which wouldn’t work well with this particular design. Probably time for a clean sheet redesign.
You know. Try~fail. Try~fail. Try~fail. Try~fail. Try~HOLY SHIT IT WORKED!!!
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This is my work ethic
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I’d vote for insulating it. The better it can hold onto the heat the lower cost to run it.
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A couple of map gas torches and a small brick oven should do it. That’s how a friend and me did it when ammo went through the roof and we tried casting lead for reloads
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Finally cracked open the parts kit for the Bambu 3d printed mouse. Decided to take the more classic route.
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Lead melts at 621F and Aluminum at 1221F, so basically twice the temp. To put that in perspective, steel glows a nice cherry red at 1200F which is just barely getting into melt temp for Aluminum.
Plus, the whole goal is to do an entire car wheel without breaking it down, so the oven needs to accommodate up to a 20" diameter wheel at least 8" tall.
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Are the car rims entirely made of 100% aluminum or is it an alloy with a different melting point?
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…The creator desired light, and thus the lights were assembled…
Remixed like 3-4 different risers together and added a few of my own tweaks to get it where I think it looks nice, and it doesn’t ruin the aesthetic
Designed my own case for the BL LED controller to use the magnets I had and a dc barrel jack adapter.
Remixed from other designs
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The most common is A356 (depending on manufacturer) an Aluminum alloy with a melting point of roughly 1130 degrees Farenheit.
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I think another important question nobody asked yet is: Are they still attached to the car?
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You know I think I found out your efficiency issue. May want to take them off the car before melting them down
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Is that molten aluminum?
Did someone commit arson with rocket fuel? Wtf
Yes. (but post fire cooled back solid)
No.
Pretty sure it was from a wildfire that swept through. Most people never think about just how insanely hot car tires burn.
I have a mighty need for these files:
Shot in the dark…
Anyone in this thread have 1.2 / 1.6 / 2.0 mm drill bits and a drill press / lathe and mind trying to drill some nozzles out?
I could try to drill by hand, but not not sure that’s going to end well
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Yes. But no metric bits. I have every size of fractional / letter / and number. Something should be so close as to be indistinguishable.
conversions as follows
1.2mm is .0472" which is almost 3/64 or .0469"
1.6mm is .06299" which is almost 1/16 or .0625"
2.0mm is .0787" which is almost #47 or .0785"
I’ll send you my address, if you want to send me some nozzles, I’ll get 'em done for you.
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yea if your willing I will probably take you up on it… I stupidly assumed finding a drill press I could commandeer would be easier than it appeared…
yea even assuming zero runout… those should be closer than I can measure… more than acceptable
happy to give monies but if there are any favors I can help with lemme know
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