If you leave that engaged,
I only auto level if I have an issue… change plate or nozzle type
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Wash your plate. I had the same issue and I needed to scrub my plate with some dawn.
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What about falling asleep and the new you that wakes up in the future had that sweet sweet robot body that you always wanted?
Don’t delay, upload yourself today!
Bambu printers use load cells to level the bed so you need a clean nozzle for it to work properly. I think that the start gcode is supposed to wipe the nozzle on a slot that the bed has for this purpose. But still, make sure that there’s no plastic caked on there. And maybe do a cold pull as well, flow issues can cause spaghetti… 
I level my Ender 3 every single time… But it’s an Ender 3and the wheels drift over time. 
This! I use hand soap and there’s no need to scrub, but anything that can remove greasy residues will do. I like to use paper towels and then the bed heater to dry it.
any surfactant will work. i like dawn because i buy it by the gallon and even use it on my lawn. but any non-scented soap (scents leave behind smelly residue)
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Think I found a new hobby. Started printing some Trek models to go with my new Borg Cube PC case. Still need to paint all the details on the Enterprise D.
My problem has been finding an appropriate paint. My acrylic enamel model paint is absolute garbage apparently so I’ve made a mix of standard acrylic and white gesso (gives a slightly more matte finish) and it’s working really well. Going to use my paint markers for smaller details.
(Ninja edit) I’ve started getting my desk looking pretty snazzy I think!
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I will always reccomend Rub and Buff.
its the best for small models especially to give that metallic sheen. A good prep is key though. sand down the layer lines if you dont like them. then give a nice primer spray. i like the krylon primers.
then a little bit of rub and buff goes a long way.
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I didn’t level my ender unless the exact same changes happened… significant error, change to nozzle or plate
Id go 6 months between levels
I did so some mods to my ender bed tho to keep it more stable
Nylock bed screw mod, and adjustment wheel locks
Also had a mod that allowed me to make micro adjustments to the z end stop switch so I could make first layer squish adjustments globally without having to mess with my level
I mixed up a batch of dawn “power wash” it’s a mixture of standard dawn, distilled water, and some ipa
Works pretty good as a bed cleaner… just be aware some bed materials such as the super tack really don’t like ipa so avoid that
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What materials do you print, and why haven’t you printed at least few kg of ASA?
Maybe I got a mediocre Ender 3, but mine is only consistent enough for PLA on the mechanical side of things. The drift is within 0.15mm so difficult materials need the CR-Touch and mesh bed leveling before every print but PLA is forgiving enough for this not to matter.
i level mine every print because i take my magnetic build plate off to get my parts up and it flex’s
Otherwise i get great adhesion
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Pla petg and tpu
I have a spool of Asa, but I never actually wound up pursuing it since according to the engineering specs it’s actually weaker… it’s only substantial benefit is UV resistance
I’ve considered playing with some engineering materials like pc or nylon… every time I get close I am usually able to just tweak print settings or design to get what I need out of the basics 
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Man nylon is such a pain to print. It absorbs water way too quickly and you can actually over dry it. The filament on the outside of the spool absorbs water faster than the interior, meaning the filament will never be consistent. Didn’t have much better luck keeping it in a dry box. You’re not missing out
I love PLA, ease of printing, color selection, doesn’t stink while printing, easy to post process, general strength. Its awesome. Just unfortunate that it’s one weakness is a somewhat warm day
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Ooo
Bambu has ppa-cf it’s spendy but it has some very nice strength numbers
Heat deflection at 227c ? Yes please
Also it was making a habit of breaking peoples testing rigs
Now I just need to find some project that actually needs that level of strength
Iglu cover for Bambu would also be a good idea to hit those 60c chamber temps
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It’s not as stiff as PLA, but the temperature resistance is way better. And ASA doesn’t creep under load! So your parts remain consistent through the years. Even Nylon creeps… But not ABS, or ASA.
That has been my experience too, much much more stable than PLA, a but softer, but tougher than PETG (with better layer adhesion) and much much easier to print than PETG or ABS.
Its my default filament now … ASA and TPU for everything, unless i need something in pretty/fancy color and i usually go for silk PLA at that point, the color selection is unmatched.
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I’ve tried TPU several times, gone through tons of benchmarking prints, and it always has a stringing issue. I’ve tried printing small pieces at 100% infill on my K1C with Creality software, octoprint, and one other and I just can’t get it. Any tips?
Dry it,
Slow it down,
Z hop ( I hate it from ender era… but it works for core xy printers)
Wipe into part before travel
Coasting
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It was a nightmare for me as well in the beginning.
Been a few years since I used it so I don’t recall the details but there was something about retraction that helped as well.
edit
Xemon and Eriequiet nailed it. I was running an Ender 3 non-direct drive
It was a nightmare on teh ender 3 … but it prints perfect every time on the Q1pro.
the direct drive coupled with core x-y makes a huge difference on TPU.
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Oh yea… if we are talking an ender…
direct drive is pretty much required
Bowden tpu is barely possible… but it’s rough
minimize starts and stops, single part at a time, try to minimize islands in your design
minimize retractions by cranking up coasting
Calibrate and add in positive prime values following a retraction, adding a prime tower could be beneficial
You may also need to print/modify your extruder feed gate, to be tighter fitting to extruder gear… any gap and the tpu will try to squirt out rather than go down the ptfe
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