Could anyone direct me as to which transponder i would need to get to work with this product? I would assume i would want the xEM since it says it RFID and xEM is for RFID. I just want to make sure my thinking here is the best it can be before buying the kit.
The term “RFID” is too broad to accurately describe any of our products… even NFC tags are RFID… check the first question on the FAQ for more detail… however, your assumption was correct 
The xEM should work just fine with the m.lock.
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Hi,
I confirm, xEM works fine with m.lock.
I guess you are confident with working on car/cycle electrics, but just let me add some thoughts:
I implemented the m.lock in a Vespa (model 2014), which was not a big issue, except the immobilizer, which took me some hours to bypass.
And be aware, your steering wheel lock will be without function, unless you always lock/unlock it with your old school ignition key (in that case the m.lock will not be that comfortable you’d like it to be probably). This might be an issue with your insurance…
By the way, I built a bypass of the ignition lock, so I can start the Vespa with key OR m.lock (could be interesting for garage/repairmen, and if m.lock fails somewhen…).
I wish you good luck with integrating the m.lock, which is a great device (even works through very thick and warm winter gloves),
Best, Wolfgang
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Thanks for the update!
I have been trying to figure out an easy way to get around the wheel lock and immobilizer, and I honestly thing the best way to do that now is to glue or secure a key into the lock in such a way that it cannot be removed, but still be turned. In this way, you can still use the key as it was intended… to;
- deactivate the immobilizer
- disengage the wheel lock
- energize the ACC and IGN and even turn over the engine
Then you basically implement a reader to act as a secondary immobilizer. Without an implant scan, turning the key does nothing… not even power up ACC devices.
This seems like the best approach to update an older key-operated vehicle without much fuss. The trick is to figure out a way to ensure the key can’t be removed. I suggest drilling a hole through the key and with the lock open and key inserted, using a pin or wire to secure the key… then putting the lock casing back together. It would really suck if you had your implant but someone removed the key and you were stuck.
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Thanks for the replies. Good to know I guessed the correct version. Implementing the m.lock will not be a problem for me, my bike is a complete custom Harley based on a 92 evo engine. Needless to say with complete custom wiring running off a m.unit v2 I have no issues relating to immobilizers.
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I’ve been exploring the same problem with my bike. Securing the key in the ignition seems pointless because that defeats the whole purpose of the steering lock. If you’re going to do that just remove the whole steering lock and ignition assembly. I’ve been hoping to figure out a way to make the lock pin operate off the m.lock via a solenoid or actuator, but the effort seems to outweigh the benefit at this point.
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I agree… and I actually did that with my VW… but doing so requires a lot more work than just leaving the key in. I had to actually get the dealer to do it because I didn’t have the tools required… so if all things being equal, leaving the key in is a much easier means to that end.
I’ve explored solenoids and the like… but honestly, if someone comes prepared to steal your car with all the electronic countermeasures and what-not already at hand… rest assured they have a plan to deal with that pesky steering lock… so it’s kinda pointless in my opinion. I guess if someone wanted to tow your car to another location then the lock serves some purpose, but again, if they came with a tow vehicle… they had a plan anyway… so in this case, the fact that every other car has a wheel lock will set an expectation that yours does too… so after that person has already broken in to your car and has their plan all ready to go to thwart it, not having an engaged lock will simply save them a few seconds.
Anyway, the solenoid solution is a good option, but it’s difficult… i looked at it for my car and it was proving to be way too much hassle for the tiny amount of protection it offered. I think that effort would be better spent on installing a custom made GPRS lojack type system or something like that
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Oh, and on motorcycles it’s even worse;
… and I’ve seen this done on big bikes too… even a nice Hayabusa… so a tiny little solenoid pin isn’t going to do shit However, I once thought I could make a system where the disc breaks would engage with a solenoid pin in the disc under a hidden cover… it’s so non-standard that a thief wouldn’t know where to start and just skip taking that bike. My only concern was that some kind of malfunction would cause it to engage while riding… with terrible consequences.
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You guys should look for something like this. Seems to be a good option.
I have a disk lock, but kind of a pain to use all the time. After seeing the videos, trying to keep the steering lock seems pretty pointless. Just park it when I go to the store and chain it to something solid If i’m going to leave it for a while. I hate lowlife thieving scum. 
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Yeah the problem with those disc locks is that it’s yet another key… that’s why we have implants!! But I think this alarm video shows that a solenoid pin in the disc approach could easily work.
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Indeed that is the reason for an implant, very tough to find a middle ground between peace of mind and simplicity. Maybe one day we will get the best of both.
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It might be possible to take one of those disc locks apart and mod it with a solenoid and reader… but that’s a serious project and expensive since the alarm probably isn’t cheap.
I’ve been googling for hours trying to find anything about vespa immobilizer bypass and this is the only post about it. Yours is the 2014 model so it should be similar to mine. How did you bypass the immobilizer? I want to do a keyless ignition system.
After trying for hours the solution I found is quite simple: I took a spare key, programmed it, cut out the little transponder (placed inside the blue grip) and stick that transponder next to the ignition lock (the antenna is the black plastic ring around the lock).
Since there is a drawback (the immobilizer will not work with 2 transponders next to the antenna, so a possible spare key with still integrated transponder won’t work) I found the best place to secure the transponder is the right-sided plastic cap for the breaking liquid. I simply stuck the transponder with a gaffer tape at the closest point next to the ignition lock. At that position it’d be easy to remove the transponder quickly…
I hope I was able to help.
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I just got a MO. Lock and I have a xEM implantat.
I program the lock using the master key, the lock blinks when the implantat is presented. But after the programming nothing is happening.
I then programmed a plain Em4100 (cheap Chinese) and my implantat… Now Im able to turn on the lock with the em4100 and off with my implantat.
Still unable to turn it on with the implantat - anyone have an idea?
That is weird, can the chinese card turn off also or only on?
I imagine you have tried to re-enroll a few times.
My initial thought is when enrolling you did not get a complete write to your xEM.
Try using the LF xFD you would have recieved with your xEM to find the sweet spot on the m.lock (if you could document / 
that and share here it might help others in the future) Then replicate that position with your xEM don’t move, then try to enroll again, but wait a few seconds longer than you would normally do
Do you have access to a Proxmark?
Yes the Chinese can easily turn on and off.
The xEM can turn it off with quite a long distance about 1 cm…
Unfortunately I do not have access to a proxmark 
That is a good sign?
Are you in a position to do this.
Using the LF xFD I get a almost the same weak light, I tried to replicate that spot to my implant - but the result is the same - also when I let it stay for approx 2 sec.