This is the theory, you need to put voltage across the poles to make it work, so with this kit: https://dangerousthings.com/product/xac-v2/
connected in parallel you could enable it to work when detecting your implant
Esta es la teoría, necesitas poner voltaje en los polos para que funcione, por lo que con este kit: https://dangerousthings.com/product/xac-v2/
conectado en paralelo podrías habilitarlo para que funcione al detectar tu implante
Which xAC do you have?
I assume the xAC V2?
If so, watch this video as a starter
If you have the V1, then watch this video
Those videos will give you an understanding on how they work and where to start.
With your specific door, can you post a photo of the actuator inside ( behind the white plastic sheet ) it should be connected to the “poppy uppy thing.” via a metal rod.
You probably don’t need to introduce your new actuator, but rather add the xAC inline with your factory lock system.
To get the doors to Lock OR Unlock is relatively “simple”, if you wan’t to Lock AND Unlock, it will take a little more Jiggery-Pokery.
The green and blue wires are pretty “standard” for lock / unlock.
Do you have a wiring manual for your car?
Do you have a multimeter?
Here is a little animation that may also help you visualise what you are trying to do
and you will be introducing the power with the xAC
I would recommend a bench setup before messing with your car.
Also, can you post a photo of your key fob?
Ideally the buttons AND with the Fob opened showing the circuit board ( If you can tell us the remote battery voltage, if it is not clearly shown.
That should do as a starter, and we can help you through the next steps as and when you can provide the information I asked for above
The “poppy uppy thing” is connected via a rod and linkage to the locking mechanism. The actuator end will move 3/4 of an inch when powered. You will need to be able to power it in reverse too if you want it to also be able to lock.
Basically you want the actuator to actuate the same mechanism as the “poppy uppy thing” but it will need to be controlled by something else. I suspect you will need an H Bridge to control the direction and a microcontroller to activate the H bridge when the XAC sends a signal.
AKA
I read the original post as being he has a manual locking car with no key fob. In which case he will need an actuator.
Yeah, Fair point.
I guess we will wait and see…
If that is the case, the actuator he has, is just a slave, Personally think it may be easier with a master unit, at least that’s how I would do it and some mounting hardware would also make it easier to install
Sorry I did a bad job at explaining my car has a very basic lock. The pushy uppy thing I referred to is the door lock indicator which is connected to a metal rod connected to a lock so I have to move it up/down to unlock/lock my car. So there’s no buttons or levers or anything
Not at all, I did a bad job reading 
So @Zwack was correct
Personally, I would grab a full kit ( I am pretty sure they are quite cheap )
And watch a video like this for the install
Again, I would recommend a bench install first, so you can get it operating before you install it into your car…
And we can talk you through that when you get it
My question is, why are you trying to actuate a single door lock,
And not use the relay to mimic/bridge the door unlock button? That’s my plan
Manual door locks do not have door unlock buttons that can be bridged with relays.
Only five of my vehicles have had electronic door locks, out of ten. (A couple of the Jeeps barely have doors).
Derp, I didn’t see that my bad
I forget that’s even a thing these days, since my economy car still has power windows and locks
I got me one ordered and in hindsight I don’t know why I just bought one actuator instead of the full kit.
I usually drive cheap, older 4 cylinder cars… When it is just “my car”.
Mazda 323 and Dodge Neon manual locks, Saturn LX and LX2, both had central locking.
So, still 50/50.
Yeah I once had a car with powered locks and windows but I parked upside down one day and apparently that’s bad for cars.
Same here Im currently driving 2008 Chevy Aveo that I got for $600 all I really car about is a working ac
Engine and brakes.
Personally, my newest car was a 1999, our current latest vehicle is a 2002 Jeep (technically all 3 of the Jeeps are my wife’s, 1951, 1976, 2002)
I’ve been wanting to get a jeep but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
I have the Aveo and a 2000 gmc sierra 3500
I also once had a 2002 Chevy cavalier but I try not to talk about that one
JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket. 
i have an old ford upgraded with the full door kit, that comes with 2 remotes. see amazon link 
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Central-Locking-Keyless-Actuator/dp/B07JWF5GCR/
been thinking about adding a reader to open the doors, which seems fairly easy to add to it.
but then i want to start the car with the NeXT aswell and haven’t got to that bit yet 
I got of these bad boys off of Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCAYQ0G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and it works great only problem I had is that the program button fell off right after I programed my NeXT to it