xEM AC with keyfob


Something like this, is likely what you are after!

Right, saw similar kits… just curious, do you just remove the entire mechanical interlock and key assembly?

Or maybe leave it all in place and semi permanently install your key?

On a basic level…Yes

Can do. But not necessary, even though the instruction suggest it.

Let me grab you the install instructions… That will explain it better
Give me a couple of minutes

BASIC Instructions ( If you need more details, just ask )

  • Use multimeter/circuit tester / Workshop manual to identify ignition wire colours
  • ( IF APPLICABLE remove transponder from key and “attach” to ignition security coil )
  • Disconnect battery or ignition fuse
  • Connect Easyguard according to wiring diagram
  • Remove key barrel in replace with Push to start button ( Or as attached instructions suggest)
  • Install RFID antenna in a suitable accessible location within the vehicle eg. Under the steering column, or behind footwell panel etc.
    Reinstall the fuse

If you still want to lock your car you will need to carry your current access tool ( Key / Fob / Prox card )
Install an xAC V1 or 2 for door unlock ( and Lock ) that you will be able to enroll the same implant to

Which nicely loops us back to the start of this Thread


Legitimately might do this

But I’m thinking I might have a audio guy do more of my wiring

Added complication is I have a smaller car
(Ford Fiesta… legit love it)
Only lock and unlock button is in the middle of the dash, and not sure I wanna deal with that

Thinking an xAC in the side mirror
(Want to waterproof it somehow)

And the easy guard, think I’d leave the lock cylinder, that way it would be slightly easier to use if a significant other or friend needed to borrow

Has anyone done this yet?

Mild concern though that this would make the car easier to steal, and or mess with insurance
Given that you are fixing the immobilizer chip to the ignition, and leaving a key shank in the ignition

(Not that someone really wants to steal my small car)

If you are not comfortable, there is nothing wrong with that

They will likely still run to the Drivers door locking mechanism, so you don’t actually have to get to the switch.

You really only need the antenna in there, so if you can run it remotely inside you vehicle that will be ideal.

I wouldn’t and didn’t (I’ve since removed it as I am working on something else)

You can hand out key fobs that are enrolled as you would hand out physical keys…The bonus is, if they loose your fob they are cheaper than a key, it is cheaper , faster and easier to wipe all enrolled fobs and re-enroll new ones than it would be to rekey your doors and ignitions, plus you can do the fobs yourself.

Actually leaving the key in, would definitely make it easier to steal.

Can’t help you with that, but you could anonymously call the insurance company and ask about RFID security “UPGRADES” and how they would affect insurance.
What was a previously simple screwdriver bypass now requires some more specialised knowledge.

Although The immobiliser chip is another story, personally I would just leave it attached, but you could make it another step. ie. have your immoboliser chip “hidden” in the vehicle and have to place it in a recepticle(with immobiliser antenna) but that doesn’t sound very convenient ( another example of security vs convinence) Some other ways to achieve the same goal, but I’ll leave that up to you.


I guess if someone really wants to steal the car, they will. To me, having RFID installed in a car, would be about convenience and not so much in security.

Can I ask what country you’re in?

Reason I ask, around here as long as you make your payments the insurance doesn’t much care what you do to your car. However I had family who lived in Europe for awhile and they told me that you would have claims denied if ANY alteration was made to the car and not reported. So if you painted it a different color and then got into a wreck, too bad, they didn’t insure a blue car, the insurance is only for the original grey car.

Frankly this may have been because they were in a super high risk demographic, but it was explained to me as normal across the board there.

You may want to double check your policy with your agent, because most insurance companies anywhere in the world will deny claims of theft or break-in damage if any part of the vehicle’s built-in security, ignition, alarm, etc. is modified, disabled, or tampered with.

Might be a perspective thing. I’ve only ever had three vehicles with full coverage. I tend to drive, well the polite word is projects. Last time I bought a running driving vehicle was 2005.

1 Like

United States,
And yea all the above was kinda my concern

Have a buddy that’s an insurance agent with a different insurance, can pick his brain see if there’s maybe a way I can swing it as “upgraded”


Very small update. Borrowing a multimeter from a mate on Tuesday to test the keyfob. Then I just have to figure out a temporary power solution and I’ll be able to fully start the process

1 Like

Calling @Pilgrimsmaster I know which two points complete the circuit for the unlock button now. Two questions though.
Which wires from the Access controller am I meant to connect? And
Will a 12v DC cable work as a temporary power solution until i can get the powering it inside the car figured out?

I presume you mean an auxiliary plug if so then yes as long as it is still “live” has 12v on it when the car is locked.

1 Like

Sorry, trying to answer this before O go for a run, so will be short.
Sorry if this is telling you to suck eggs :egg::egg:

White is your common
Yellow is Normally Open (NO)
Green Normally Cosed (NC)

NO means open circuit, meaning disconnected or “OFF”

Obviously NC means closed circuit or “ON”

When you scan your implant they switch to the opposite…
Does that make sense

Blue is the “egress” button, you probably won’t use this UNLESS for example if you car doors automatically lock after you go certain speed etc and when you stopped you wanted to unlock doors ( but your car will already have this function built into it somewhere, via button or just pulling on door handle etc) but what you could do is run that to a secret switch on the outside of the car as a backup entry. but if the xAC unit failed it wouldn’t help.

Geez, I’m just waffling here, i should have thought about my answer BEFORE I started typing.

Anyway out the door for me :running_man: , just ask if you need more clarification

These are the two points that complete the circuit or I imagine just both side of the gold contact complete it. So would I need to use multiple wires? Or I assume I’d use the yellow because you said it was one that was normally off. Or do I solder two wires to the contacts and connect them with the yellow? Sorry like I said I’m very new to this

I’m only trying to wire up the unlock just because I mean I can just lock it with the button when I get out of the car

White to one side yellow to the other make sure to remove one of the jumpers cant remember which otherwise common will have 12v on it (you don’t want that)

Got it, thanks mate

Here is the chart for the jumpers. So would I need S3 on the “Delay output active- low GND” state?