Pretty much any system is going to have a point of access. No matter how secure the communcations are, somewhere there is a button that you can push to activate it. That button pushes on a switch. A switch is nothing more than a connection that is opened or closed.
Regardless of how nice or getto you go about it, all you have to do is find the switch, and attach a wire to each side of it, then connect or disconnect as required via a relay controlled by the power of SCIENCE!!!
First law of ODaily, the first step to fixing anything is to break it so badly that it wants to be fixed.
I have a wall mounted push button. I thought it was wirless but I took a look after I posted and it is the only thing in the garage that they actually ran wires through the wall for. So it looks like it’s just a normal push button opener. The only reasons it has a pcb inside is for it’s lock and learn functions.
The band should be towards the relay. You can double check with a test light. Clamp it on the negative and test before AND after the diode. You should get light on both sides if it’s correct. If the light only works before the diode, then it’s backwards. Think of it this way, the power is SUPPOSED to go through to the relay, so hot on both sides, but if the power is coming from the relay (BAD) then it should be stopped by the diode. So only hot on one side.
This confuses me. The relay should have 4 or 5 terminals (connectors, or pins). They are all labeled. If you have a 5 pin, one of them will be labeled 87A, but you won’t actually use it. Assuming we are talking about the same thing, then the answer is the one you have is fine. This may help. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
That diode will work fine.
About the Relay;
The terminals are labeled by numbers.
85 & 86 are the ones used to control the relay. One should be connected to ground. The other should be hooked to the white controller wire (with diode in between).
87 & 30 are connected when the relay is activated. You can hook them to the door circuit, or you can hook one to 12v and the other to something that will be turned on by that 12V
IF you use a capacitor, (this gives it a little time delay / hang time, but is NOT mandatory), then that get hooked between ground, and whichever terminal is hooked to the white wire. This should be between the diode and relay. So after the diode, but before the relay.
Also if you use an electrolytic capacitor, they can only be hooked up one way, the negative side is marked with a stripe on the side.
I have a 4-pin relay… My garage door switch has two wires a red and a black. I have 12 volt positive to number 30. Ground to 85. Signal wire from controller (with diode) to 86. And my red wire from my garage door controller to pin number 87
I think it’s something with my garage door because The test light is turning on and off like the relay is the switch when the tag is introduced. I just looked at my garage door controller again and the red wire is the signal wire the black is a ground.
87 test light. When the signal wire is connected from door controller it does nothing.
Try this. Unhook everything from the garage door. Then take a jumper wire and touch it to the red garage door wire, and the black garage door wire.
It should adtivate / open / close.
I worry that we may be miscommunicating on this. The two electrical systems should not be mixed. The controller has 12v and the garage door has it’s own SEPARATE 12v. The garage door should only be hooked to 30 and 87. The power for / from the controller should not be on either 30 or 87.