It looks like the two places used are the pins that have SW2 printed in between them.
Hook it back up without the cover, and jump those two. Door should open / close.
If that works, the you’re going to need to solder on a couple of wires, and snake them out of the case to get them to the relay.
OR you could set your multmeter to OHMS and check those two pins. Should be O ohms when button is pressed and infinite, when not pressed.
I just tried checking the ohms and it worked! Now I just need a very small soldering iron.
Okay… Now that we know how to fix it, can someone give me a dumbed-down version of how this damn thing works??? Like I said car guy not computer guy so may need to really dumb it down lol
It probably uses a signal that goes beyond, on / off.
The simple way to think of this is to compare it to morse code. You can send all sorts of information down just two wires. You have to be prepared to receive / store / interpret the codes. Thus all the circuitry.
The wires going to the button are data wires, not straight power wires (technically they are both, but shorting them or giving them power won’t work). Think CANBUS instead of central locking motor.
By soldering directly to the button, you’re not touching the data lines directly, but telling the chip to send the data message.
Well that explains why I could not get my Wi-Fi controller to operate the garage door either… So I should be able to solder two jumper wires to the button on the board… Then connect those jumpers to the relay for the xEM along with my Wi-Fi controller then all of them should work?? Is it really that simple!!!
I don’t know your wifi controller, but yeah. In fact, Hell Yeah!
Seriously, we’re gonna need video once it’s going.
It sure is! Just remember to follow @ODaily’s warnings earlier to not send 12v to those contacts on the switch. The wires from the switch should be the ONLY things connected to 30 and 87!
Make sure your wifi controller also is just a relay output and not sending power! Sending power into these wires could cook the chip in the button!
For sure! I have a friend that makes circuit boards so I’m going to try to get him to help me tomorrow. I’m guessing now the forum has a pretty good troubleshooting guide for figuring this out thank you so much!!!
And I need to figure out how to program the xEM controller to my NExT but not tonight 
I looked up the user guide, it is a relay output, so yes, the red and black wires should be able to connect to the same jumper wires and work fine!
Power up the controller, tap the black master fob that came in the tin with the xAC to the antenna, remove it, tap your hand to the antenna and remove it. You should now be programmed in!
Well it doesn’t get much more simple than that!
This is crazy easy.
I had to look that controller up (wifi). Looks like it had the same problem that you had with the Dangerous Things controller. The circuit board just got in the way.
Consider installing one of THESE. It’s called a Terminal Block. You can run your wires to this and then tie in others to run to the DT controller and the Wifi controller. Makes your wiring cleaner, and MUCH easier to work with if you have to change, adjust, or modify.
AWESOME! Thanks!
I actually think I have one or two in my toolbox!
Or alternatively, you can twist the jumper wires to your button with the ones from your wifi controller, and crimp them into a female spade to go on the bottom of the xAC’s relay. Makes it look a bit cleaner, but either option is good. The important part is neatness counts! Never build something that’s hard to work on or maintain, you’ll hate yourself down the line if you do!
Amen to that! Can’t stand birds nest wiring on cars
I’m off to bed, thanks again for the help guys!
Easy Peasy
Any luck on it?
Will be headed to bed soon, It’s a school night. Can’t do that 2AM again. Still just wanted to see if your buddy was able to hook you up with some soldered wires.
