That was very helpful! How difficult is it to set up a pn532 and arduino? I’ve also heard it’s difficult to find a “real” pn532. That sounds like it’d be a much better set up than what I initially had in mind! Does that drain the battery at all? To be clear, that set up would remove the need to have the antenna that comes with the push start?
This is a great question. The PN532 should just plug right in to some of the pins on the arduino but coding the arduino to do what you want is the hard part. This will be my first time messing with it but i have taken a highschool class on coding this past year so i have an idea of what im doing(will probably be a lot of googling still).
Im not sure what that’s about… my plan was just to order one from amazon if i choose to use it
after looking at it though… this^ might make me look a bit harder for the ‘real’ one…
Unless you add in a separate USB battery bank, yes. Im not sure how much because this is still just a plan and not tested but i don’t think it will be too bad considering that the battery recharges via the alternator whenever the car is running. worst comes to worse, ill add a separate battery just for this
Yes. It would actually not use the push start at all. If the plan goes smoothly, the arduino should do everything that the push start was supposed to. the only thing i might reuse from the push start is the button because it looks nice.
the problem with reusing the rest of the push start is
- the arduino can be coded to do every thing the push start used to with the help of some relays (i think) so why keep it?
- without the antenna, there is no good way to tell the rest of the push start to do its thing. and replacing the antenna with our own would require much more knowledge than i have.
- making it yourself is more fun, at least i think so
again stop me if i missed something or if im just wrong on something lol
From my understanding, that review was posted by “turbo2ltr”. He’s a regular here, and you can find the thread where he talks about the review fairly easily. Finding a real pn532, however, i have no idea how to do. Amal usually sells them, I believe, but is all sold out for now.
With using the button, I’ll prolly just buy a button in its own then. If i choose to go with the arduino. I’m going to college soon, and am taking a programming class. I was hoping to get skme experience with that through the implant some how. So it seems like the perfect move. I have some experience with coding, and something like that shouldnt be too many lines of code.
Just out of curiosity, where do you plan on putting the pn532? I was planning on taking out my side mirror and putting whatever reader/antenna in there. It’d be perfect for a chip in the left hand!
Well in that case @turbo2ltr where would you recommend getting a good pn532?
And @Vicarious you posted in my other thread saying you had one that read through your windshield, where did you get it?
Same actually, I’m off to RIT. You?
And as for where, maybe the wing mirror, maybe behind the windshield, I’ll see how wiring works out.
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Im headed to ouachita baptist! I’m going for sports and physics. Im trying to get this chip in asap so i dont have to worry abt it with my sport.
Yes that is my Amazon review.
Main thread is here Success! PN532 is not easy to work with!
If Amal doesn’t have them, I don’t know have a good source for them, though I would assume these are real as they are the original manufacturer (as far as I know, but I could be wrong): https://www.elechouse.com/elechouse/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=90_93&products_id=2276
Well, it certainly gets more expensive than amazon knockoffs when you add shipping: $21.
Still better than the other options though, xEM AC is $24 and an ID-12A is almost $30.
This project is getting very expensive… Should i grab 2? just in case i need another one for something?
Previously I ordered the PN532 NFC modules from DT when they were still in stock… or from elechouse.com
welp, that seems to confirm the source for these. I’ll grab one soon and report back when shipping arrives
Do the pn532s only work for the xNT? Can I hook the xEM access controller to the arduino to do the same thing?
I believe the pn532 works with a couple of other hf implants as well.
Yes you could use the access controller to trigger the Arduino but Im not going to for two reasons,
- I want to use the access controller elsewhere
- I think the access controller would be far easier to hotwire if someone got in by breaking a window or such
Well, imma have two of the suckers, so I’ll likely go that route. How would it be easier to hotwire? Don’t most newer vehicles have precautions for that sort of thing? I also think it’d be difficult to use it to hotwire where I’d like to place it.
How would some random guy even know how to use the xEM access controller to hotwire? I don’t think your average person who’s trying to steal a car would know what the device is, much less use it to their advantage.
Fair enough. As for the hotwiring, you do have a point with random Joe not having a clue of what this is. My thinking was that all they would have to do is send 5 volts to the pin on the Arduino but when I think about it more, there are like 20+ pins on an Arduino nano.
Speaking of which, to use the access controller with the Arduino, just set up the relay on the controller to short one pin of the Arduino to 5v from it’s supply. Then program it so that when that pin gets power, do whatever you would have when an I’d is validated
Yea there’s no way someone can figure out the thing.
Yes usually called an immobilizer. It actually is a small rfid chip inside your key and if the car doesn’t see that chip, it will not start. Therefore, if robber joe doesn’t have your key, they are shit out of luck.
The issue is that my goal with this project is to not carry keys… So I need to bypass this immobilizer for my project to work. Therefore, someone could just cut off all of our custom work and hotwire the old fashioned way.
There is something called an immobilizer bypass module that can bypass the immobilizer without compromising security but I don’t have one.
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Couldn’t you hook up the immobilizer to the arduino? That seems like a very secure way to do it imo. That way someone still would have to rip everything out to hotwire it.
This would do exactly that. The immobilizer bypass essentially copies your key chip and gives it to the car when it gets a signal from the Arduino. The only problem is I don’t have one and I’m too lazy to get one.
Are you simply removing your immobilizer? I’ve got just about everything I need, and have just about got the arduino figured out. I’ve been looking at the immobilizer bypass modules, and im not sure they’re worth it. Especially i really doubt someone would ever try to steal the car as it’s a stick.
Do you have any links to that module
What is your immobilizer set up?
Starter motor, fuel pump, key or ECU?
You should be able to bypass without a specific module
Bypass modules are great when you want 2 ways of starting a car, like a remote start - I.e. only bypass if by remote but don’t bypass if using a key so a hardware store copy won’t start the car. It’s a nice touch to have a bypass you can ‘turn off’ electrically, but not strictly needed depending on your threat model
I took the electric guts out of my key and literally duct taped it to the immobilizer reader. Then I removed the key cylinder while stuck in the on position and cut the communication line to the key switch. This way, the car gets nothing from the switch and sees it as off. Then, when my custom setup is triggered to start, a relay reconnects the data line and the car sees the switch as on. This disengages the shifter interlock and acts like the key is in the in position. I then would use relays to send the 12v line to the ignition wire and the starter wire to start the engine. Turn off the starter wire after the engine catches and you are all set. At this point if I hadn’t stuffed the key guts in the reader it would shut itself off because it didn’t see the chip. Then just disconnect all the relays to shut the car down. When i Finish the project with Arduino ill make a more detailed explanation and kind of tutorial. The problem with my method of bypass is that anyone who knows how to hotwire can just do what the relays do by hand (touching wires together).
It looks for the chip in the key on engine start and if it isn’t found it forces the engine to turn back off. Not sure how but it does.
The bypass module I’m thinking of would have the key guts put in it and it would be hidden somewhere. It then uses its own coils to copy the signal of the key and broadcast it near the immobilizer reader only when you tell it to via a wire to the Arduino. It’s much better than my lazy ass method since someone can’t hotwire unless they find the hidden module. And, it works by tricking the car into thinking it sees the chip so it doesn’t really matter how the immobilizer would shut off the car but it also let’s the immobilizer do its job when needed.
There are probably other ways of getting around the immobilizer but this type is the one I’m familiar with (and too lazy to buy)
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Mine just stops the key from turning.