I don’t have any implants currently but I plan to get several.
I’m planning on replacing the ignition switch on my Jeep (2007 grand Cherokee) soon and thought I might as well be thinking ahead.
What should I be looking for in the new ignition system that will make it easier to set up later with an implant? I’m assuming I want a push button start. Anything else I should look for? Or advice in general for the project?
Plan: rfid unlock (hand read through windshield prob) and rfid start (hand read where key would normally be)
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How will you handle the mechanical interlock between the key and steering wheel and gear shifter (if any exist)
@turbo2ltr I don’t know if there is one but I would have thought that if I go with a push button, all I have to worry about is being able to activate it with my implant.
I have no details planned out other than “I’m replacing the ignition anyway, might as well think ahead”
Everything I’ve ever done with a car so far has been under the hood so the dash side of things will be a learning experience
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If there is a pushbutton kit for that specific car, they may address it… If it’s a generic pushbutton, you will still have to address the issue. ON the newer cars, it’s all electronic, and it may be electronic on yours but it’s something to look into. If your steering wheel locks when the key is not in the ignition… I think the shifter interlocks have been electronic for a while (hear a click when you hit the brake in park). But the steering could be an issue… Also if you remove those interlocks, it removes some basic security features. Now someone can jump in, put it in N and roll away with the car. It’s certainly possible to do, just some things to think about.
Some of these kits come with RFID, but may will not read a glass tag through say the windshield due to the read range being very short. I’m sure there have been people here that have done it, so I’ll let them chime in…
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The steering wheel doesn’t necessarily lock but it does become much stiffer when ignition is off. i think this is just because it has powered steering though. ill check the shifter tomorrow. anything else i should look for other than making sure that it addresses the interlock?
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As far as making it work with RFID, you’ll generally be best using an xEM Access Controller - It just outputs 12v when an authorised tag is presented and you can use this with a relay to trigger different things.
You’ll probably get better advice on the push button start, steering lock bypass and, if you need to, immobiliser bypass on car forums.
For my car, I have an aftermarket alarm that when I unlock can turn off my immobiliser and lets my push button start work - the xEM Access Controller just presses the unlock button on my alarm. But there are plenty of ways to achieve this, and what one is best depends on your car, any other accessories, and what you want to achieve.
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to anyone watching, i just made a simple diagram of the plan here
its bad i know but the wiring should work as long as i can find a push button that doesnt need the fob nearby to start (or one where i can bypass that)
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All adds up! As long as your car doesnt have a chip in the key for an immobiliser, and steering locks aren’t an issue that looks good. You can definitely get cheap push button starts that dont need a fob, I’ve got one in my car.
The only thing that’s different with mine is that I use the button not another xEM Access Controller for my push button start (its connected to my alarm so the button doesnt work unless you’ve already scanned on the outside car reader.
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actualy i think i just found exactly what were trying to diy. think this would work? Amazon.com
my current concern is : does the rfid tag just unlock the push button or does it also unlock the door? I would assume it does but…
also need to see if this will even work with implant
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Looks like that one is just a Pushbutton with rfid immobiliser to turn it on - doesn’t handle any of the locking/unlocking of the car
crap… so wait, are you just supposed to leave it unlocked or do they expect you to ALSO carry your key?
anyway,
so i would need to get both that and set up the xEM controller for the door right?
is this the best solution or should i look for something else
also, how can i check if my key has a chip immobilizer?
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The short answer is yes, most of these kits aren’t designed for people with RFID implants to be able to get rid of their keys, in fact the cheapest ‘push button start’ kits you can find still require you put your key in the car and turn it to ‘on’ - it literally just replaces turning the key to the start position.
These kits are made for people who want to show off to their mates and feel like they are driving a high end sports car when they can only afford a Camry - although its become less of a thing these days because passive keyless and pushbutton are coming to more and more cars as standard even in the middle of the market.
As for leaving it unlocked, that is definitely not recommended, something like an xEM Access Controller to look after locking, and then this to look after starting is a pretty common solution, but how you’d connect it up changes per car. If you’re wondering if your car has a factory immobiliser and how to get around that, look up “immobiliser bypass module your car model and year” and get your advice from a reputable car forum - this is done all the time for people who want remote start to warm up their car on cold days, so as much as they probably can’t help with the RFID stuff, the users there will be better able to advise on what needs to be done for your car.
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Now that im looking at other systems from this seller, Would it be better to just get this standard keyless that includes remote start? I wish powered implants existed so we could do this with an implant. aaarrg im so conflicted, remote start and keyless would be so nice but i also dont want to carry a key…
help me decide please
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At the end of the day, it comes down to how you use it.
For some food-for-thought, my setup is an aftermarket alarm with remote start, a push button start in the car, and xEM Access Controller to unlock the car and turn off the alarm. So day to day, i won’t be carrying a key and I will be able to unlock and drive no problems, but i also have the option of remote start which i would only really use at home - there is a remote on my bedside table.
Basically you’ve got to figure out the end result first, then you can decide what the best way to get there is.
And as for powered implants - For myself i dont really see the appeal. The idea for me of having an implant is that I don’t have to think about it. No keys to grab, no batteries to run flat, and very simple circuitry with little chance of it going wrong.
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That Amazon “EasyGuard” is pretty much what I am using for mine.
I haven’t yet updated my rfid-vehicle-unlock-and-start project. ( Where @turbo2ltr also gave me some good suggestions )
Once it is done, I will update the whole project thread because I don’t want to drag anybody down the garden path until its finished.
But for now, to help you out, Just some observations, thoughts and results that I have had.
The installation of the Push to start you linked to (mine was aliexpress but the same unit) was very simple.
As @turbo2ltr eluded to
So I installed the antenna in the windscreen and it reads the factory fob easily, I haven’t actually tested my NExT because the xEM side is T5577 for my work access, I am hopeful it will work when I get my dedicated xEM, although in saying that, I am going to move it to the wing mirror with a momentary button underneath that will be pressed by my thumb as I scan my implant (that’s the plan anyway)
Why put in a momentary switch I hear you ask 
When I travel, I do so for extended periods, I don’t want to come back to a flat battery.
(I have a hide-a-key on the outside)
alternatively, I will put in a low voltage cut out and rely on the key.
I removed my key barrel and inserted the Push to start in the cavity and it fit perfectly.
Removing the key barrel in mine removes the steering lock
My car doesn’t need a transponder, but if It did this is where you would install/mount the chip.
Now here is where it got tricky, I REALLY like the xAC, but my whole goal was to use one device to push to start and to unlock.
Yes I could have installed both and enrolled the same xEM to both…Yes I could have used 2/3 xACs, but that was not what I wanted to do.
For a few different reasons, I decided to just go with the cheap Chinese Pust to start.
The problem lies with finding a switched 12V on the board of the Push to Start when the RFID is scanned and Authenticated to unlock the doors.
The only place I could find was the piezo buzzer -ve drop, but It beeps twice in quick succession and without going into it, you can probably see the problem.
My Door locks are +vely triggered, not too much of an issue with a relay, but just one more consideration.
I am working with my mate who is an electronics engineer, who is happy to teach me some board design and programming from start to finish, It will contain a Flip Flop latching relay and will recognise the authentication peizo beep to lock / unlock.
Now for the biggest problem. TIME 
Not his priority, nor mine for that matter, but I will get it done. ( It would actually be done sooner if I wasn’t involved…) It is currently out of my car and sitting on his bench, and I won’t get back until March, nothing is happening with it anytime soon.
On the plus side
when the board is complete and tested as working, I will release all the files to the community.
and a WikiHow style update for installation.
If all goes to plan, it will be an Unlock, push to start, Lock system for under $20 ( my Aliexpress PtoS was around $10 ).
I hope this was helpful and there is some stuff to consider and not a derailment 
I was going to wait to share this in my project until I had it sorted and proven, but since you kinda asked…
I am aware there are some potential security flaws in MY system, but luckily for me, this is not something I have to worry about.
I did actually consider adding a tracking solution triggered off the same system, and THEORETICALLY, it wouldn’t be difficult, but…
There are some much smarter and more capable people on this forum than me, that can provide you further advice / suggestions…this is just MY input.
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Im gonna post this reply then i gotta go to bed but i will continue tomorrow.
So in summary,
- get and install the linked push button
- add chip if needed
- find something to tap into when rfid is authenticated and wire it to a relay that presses unlock button in door
- use provided rfid tags untill i get my implants
do i have this right so far?
next, how could i ALSO add remote start like @Compgeek has set up? (maybe even through a phone app…)
and finally, is it possible to authorize new tags to the system instead of just cloaning the existing ones? (have NeXT that could work with home, work and car?)
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I’ll let @Compgeek answer that
It depends on the systems but YEP!?!
When you have control of your system, NORMALLY you can enroll your own tags
xAC easy peasy
The Linked Push to start, piece of cake ( Up to 10ish? )
Work…Will entirely depend on a number of things…
Get some info together. (Make / model of system, photos/ links to cards and access panels, Taginfo scan/ DT Diagnostic tools results ( Comes in implant kit ), if you have permission to enroll or working relationship with system administrator…)
Search through the forum, If you don’t find the droids you are looking for,
then create a New Thread and I’m sure somebody will be able to help you out
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Sadly this comes down to picking any 2 of the following 3 options - Cheap, Easy to install, and secure. A DIY remote start (and arguably eBay ones) will not be secure, and when you look at the higher end systems, you really should have a professional installer involved.
If you’re going down this road, look for either an alarm with remote start capability, and use something like an xEM Access Controller to disable the alarm - then use alarm status = off to allow the push button to operate (this is what I have done) OR look for a push button that comes with a remote start included (bonus points if RFID and you do what @Pilgrimsmaster is working on where the push button unlocks the car, or alternatively one without RFID and use an xEM access controller)
Mobile App remote start is expensive, but you can talk to an auto installer about things like the Viper SmartStart system. I haven’t gone this far because I think opening an app to hit a button is less convenient than a remote on my bedside table, but to each their own opinions.
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@Pilgrimsmaster in that case, I will let you know when I start the project and keep you updated
(In my highschool auto II (I’m a senior) we are going to have a few opportunities to do our own things so I plan on doing it then)
@Compgeek in that case I’ll probably just omit the remote start for now. I’ll be too lazy to use it anyway lol.
Thanks for all the help, I’ll update when I get started!
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UPDATE.
Its been a while and the project is on hold for now. What I did so far is install the easyguard module from Amazon as intended and it works well for engine start. For door lock and unlock I’m planning on using an Arduino nano to detect when the built in buzzer beeps once or twice (system lock/ unlock) and output to a relay board that essentially “presses” the internal lock and unlock buttons in the door by connecting the button wire to 12v via relay instead of the buttons contacts.
That is the plan but I still need to order parts and do it, probably after the online ap tests. I’ll update again with more details then
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