So if I plan to use the xAC v2 as a controller to open my car, it should not be wired directly to the main 12v battery?
Note: I tried programming the LF part of my work ID (cloned to my NeXT, EM mode) , but the Easyguard didn’t accept it.
After some fiddling, I discovered that if you have An EM tag that only has numbers as UID, you can program it to the Easyguard.
But if your tags UID contains letters, the Easy guard refuses to read/accept the tag. - at least it didn’t with my UID.
So the “0F0368568B” id probably doesn’t work with the easyguard?
This is my ACTUAL one I used a few hours ago
The other option, if you wanted to try it, is Just write your own ID with only numbers as EM on your T5577 with a Proxmark, then enrol that directly on to the EasyGuard.
I have packed it all up now, but I am pretty sure I have also enrolled by holding Valid tag on the antenna for ~5-10secs and there is a long beep, then present a new tag you want to enrol within ~30sec until a series of beeps.
Short answer ‘it depends’ - mainly on how you use the car. My car has 3 xAC v1’s connected and powered at all times, they draw about 13mA each, totalling around 40mA - my alarm draws another 50mA, and the rest of my car draws 40mA for retaining settings and powering control modules.
Total of 130mA - pretty high for a ‘non faulty’ car, and can flatten a full battery in a few weeks if left without driving. It’s also my daily driver, so while this is high it isn’t a problem.
If you don’t drive the car often, a lot of people put on a switch so they can reduce the current draw as low as possible and leave for a few months without issue.
My second vehicle is a van that I use more seasonally, during the ‘on season’ the alarm and 3 readers are powered all the time. It gets driven at least once a week and is totally fine. In the off season, i use a battery cutoff switch that kills power to the alarm and readers (while a security camera is pointed at it!), along with the radio and everything else except the connector for my solar panel and charger to keep the battery in good shape.
Depending on how much your car already draws at standby, 13mA will either be basically nothing, or a massive amount - pick your battles wisely! For my daily driver, having 3 turned on is no big deal.
EDIT: According to the product listing, the v2’s are ThirstyBois compared to the v1 - again pick your battles and maybe don’t go with 3 of them. Website says 60mA EACH - it’s a lot, but again, in your circumstance it might be no big deal.
Another couple of options to add to what @Compgeek suggested
Get a larger ( Capacity ) battery
Get a “House” battery, connected it to the Start battery via a VSR, You may also want to put in a Low Voltage Cut Out, and have a backup entry option. aka a key
Or another option, get a CTEK battery charger (or similar) and your battery will love you for it.
While driving the car every couple of days it’ll be fine, if you go away for the week or decide to take the train then plug it in. It’s a multi stage charger that will first take your battery to maximum then go into ‘trickle’ mode to keep it at 100% for up to 10 days. After that, it goes into a pulsed mode to let your battery go up and down a little bit which is good for battery health when stored indefinitely - keep it powered and know that when you turn the key it will start.
just opened my pm easy from dt, flashed, and tinkered.
it is now:
lf em 410x clone -u xxxxxxxxxx
my hand now reads the same as the easyguard card but i just went outside and did a very brief test due to it being 5 am, freezing, and snowy
result: nada ill try again tomorrow and try to find the sweet spot when i actually have a coat on
thanks for the info.
My car is an all electric, and it charges the 12v battery ‘when needed’, even when it’s turned off… so I assume one AC will work just fine, no matter the usage, and that it practically functions as a CTEK battery charger.
Oh yeah, you should be totally fine then. If it’s plugged in at night anyway, who cares how much power it draws at standby as long as you’ve always got enough to get home. It’ll be nothing compared to driving power.
And you are correct, no need for a CTEK, the car has its own charge controller already.
Only thing to consider is where you get your power from, you want it to be fused and some more modern cars can be fussy if you try to draw more power through circuits reserved for certain modules. Check a car forum for your car to see what your options are for power of accessories that need a constant connection.
Well my car doesn’t have any lock/unlock button. As I said, I installed the thing, so the only thing it has is a receiver, a lock lift inside the door and a remote.
I will take a video of the inside so you can picture it, because it’s a very rough and different car. Everything is mechanical, there is no buttons inside, no heater buttons, the windows have a handle, no buttons and no electronics, no nothing. The AC are two flaps that you open and you get air from the outside. The radio and the heater were nonexistent until I installed them as a mod. That’s why I don’t know which way to go, and since I’m relatively new to this electronic world, I don’t know what’s available out there.
And Scottish people aren’t thieves, they’re just nice people.
Edit, I forgot to say, I’m sick of not being able to see images or videos. I can only see YouTube attachments in some posts, but in this post I can’t see nothing.
I tried with the installed forum on my home screen, with Edge, Chrome, and no luck. Still can’t see any image.
If it you can test it with a relay and switch before full install if it works I assume you could wire it all up to a reader and feed it to the door panel or any area of choice really and use your implant to control the central locking and still maintain the use of the key for the door, if ofcourse your central locking on the center console works without the keys needing to be in the ignition like some cars
I’m not a car guy myself so never actually messed with the electronics in one but my assumption is it shouldn’t be too hard to modify that button to work in your favour