LoRa Meshtastic

It’s based on channels.

You can have multiple channels per node. Just when you configure yours put them all on the same channel and encryption

The default channel that everyone is on is not safe encryption because everyone knows it.

But if you create your own channel and encrypt it, on your own mqtt server you’re essentially invisible. You can even choose a separate band for your own mesh locally to you.

what happens if someone else uses the same channel with different encryption or keys? like is a “channel” a unique identifier or is it just a word for a specifically defined result of a cryptographic process so the “channel” ID is only possible if you have the same keys?

edit: … nm i can research…

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It’s only available if your keys match.

You can have 50 people on channel “bear” but if the key isn’t the same they will never hear one another.

The main thing is getting off the default mqtt server though. Because the traffic is still public just encrypted.

I have this node setup pretty high and it covers about a third of my city and provides our mesh with the current environmental data.

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My intent, eventually, is to wire up home assistant to turn on my sprinklers every morning unless barometric is below 1013mb. As that indicates it’s likely to rain.

I have other plans just no time

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I used this tutorial to build a Meshtastic node in a Harbor Breeze Solar Light:

Now for the reason why I built it:
My neighborhood has a gate and we are not allowed to have codes. So I often receive calls from Amazon drivers saying they can’t get in. I have to explain that they need to look me up in the directory and call me from the call box. I wanted a way to push a button in home assistant and open the gate. So I made this and put a RF transmitter module inside. Then I hid it with the other lights at the entrance to my subdivision. Now I can push a button in Home Assistant and it will send a command to the solar light via Meshtastic LoRA and the light will transmit the code to open the gate. :grin:

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Also for anyone worried about me publicly posting this, I no longer use this system as I came up with a better one.

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I have a few things to add, I want to put a proper charge circuit in and the screen is just test fit. But it’ll have screen support in the next build.

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A gentleman of taste

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I’ve gotten more positive than negative about this addition so I’m assuming it’s universally true

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Let me know if you need help with this. I’m assuming that soldering SMD parts shouldn’t be a problem for you.

I need to design a charge circuit for solar and for usb-c.

USB C is easy…

How are you implementing the solar side of things? What are the specs of the panels? How much usable sun can you rely on? And for how long does it need to run when there’s no sun?

I haven’t messed with solar for a very long while. But I think that it should be relatively easy in the grand scheme of things.

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I think I want the panel to charge the battery when it sees sun.

Mac panel voltage should be 12v but I also want to use 6v panels as those are cheap and easy to come by

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Anyone ever used the RP2040-LoRa board?
How do they compare with the esp and rak?

Also, from the ideas thrown out earlier, im thinking about trying those “enclosure” :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


(~$7/each, might mount well outside and be stealthy?)

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These work okay as long as you’re using a rak wireless node.

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ok, got it, jut get a rak and call it quit :sweat_smile:

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Rak devices use the nrf52840 chip which is super low power. The device I’m making is the same chip and low power high wattage. It will compete with the rak for range but use the same power.

Esp32 devices will barely stay up 8 hrs on an 18650 so that little solar panel would never be able to power it

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Wait

Friend just purchased house

House has old telephone pole (prev owner liked ham radio, pole owned by friend now)

That friend is slightly into meshtastic

If we were to get a RAK in one of these… Do you think a single 18650 + the panel would be enough to handle a Michigan December (@Hamspiced)? I could probably add some mylar near the top to prevent overheating in the summer too.

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You would probably have to disable the actual LEDs though yeah? If it’s high traffic then the battery probably wouldn’t hold.