Of course I needed to be able to start my bike with my implant. I used the xAC as basis, and series of latching relays to control current and keeping the circuit open. A push button is used to activate a timer circuit, that feeds the xAC for 20 seconds. The push button also activates a NC relay that kills the current flow to latching relays.
I also ditched the fragile xAC antenna for a more robust antenna suitable for bike setup.
@ekt I like that you too took on a motorcycle project and I have a few questions for you.
My issue is not with the antenna but with the antenna leads as I would like to keep my Xac under my seat while having the antenna on my handlebars, so are the leads long enough to do this?
I own a 2015 Harley Davidson XG750 with 14 inch ape hangers on it and I want to relocate my Xac from beside my seat.
My experience is that LF is very resilient. You can almost use anything as antenna, and leads can be long. I have no exact length, but my xac is mounted all the way back of the bike, just in front of the rear light. I’ve had no issues at all with this, to my surprise actually, because I had this worry as well. I’ve tested 4 different antennas, and all of them worked flawlessly. I also tested using wires that probably were twice as long as the bike, with no issues.
HF as many advantages, but it is also easy to see where LF shines.
The holes in the back are not threaded, but it’s soft plastic, so I guess they will be with the right type of screws. I’ve used double sided magic tape, which I believe is a gift from the gods. Holds anything, and leaves no marks. Also it is flexible and transparent, so almost invisible.
@ekt I already have a Xac v1 installed on my bike at present but because the antenna lead is short, coax cable, and secured to the Xac in a resin there’s nothing else that I can do with it. I keep coming back here to see if anyone has been able to design a system that will reduce the size of the needed set while also allowing for multiple antenna mount locations.
I noticed that with your antenna its mounted on the front of your master cylinder with lower handlebars where as I’m looking for a mount near my clutch lever on extended handlebars.
Because I use my xEm implant in my left hand and not the NExT in my right I definitely want to keep the antenna on the left side of my bike. At last check I would need about 72 inches of antenna lead to do so.
I’m loving this! That would be enough to get my to buy an implant right there.
I ride a '12 Road Glide. I would like to replace the key fob with an implant.
The bike detects the key fob in proximity to the bike (like in my pocket) and allows me to start the bike.
The problem is that the key fob has a small battery in it, so I’d need something that was powered by the motorcycle battery when I turned it on that scanned for the chip and provided the same function that way.
Actually, reading through that I’d have the same issue. It’s a battery powered fob.
This might actually be extremely simple. Using the xEM Access Controller v2 (xAC v2) it looks like I can just wire it in and use the relay to close a contact on a hidden key fob (should all easily fit inside the fairing). I can even power the key fob with a little buck converter so I never have to replace coin batteries. Then all I have to do is stuff a big metal tube in my hand and inject an RFID chip. Am I missing anything?
Yeah, it’s relatively easy, but not quite that easy. You would need some way of triggering the entire setup, as powering the xac at all times would drain your battery. The easiest solution is of course just a dumb on/off switch, but that is not very elegant, and also poses a risk of forgetting it on, draining the battery. I have used a push button switch and a timer module, but perhaps even more elegant would be a motion sensor and a timer module together. This would wake up the xac when you sit on the bike, and the timer would prevent false positives.
Another thing is that the xac provides power to the relay for 1 or 5 seconds, so depending on how your key fob works, you might need some kind of latching circuit.
I am only trying to get rid of the fob, not the ignition switch, so simply turning the ignition switch would power on the system. Reading my implant would then close the relay on the fob power that is mounted under the fairing allowing me to start the bike.
I’m wondering if the antennae will work through 1/8 inch of plastic allowing me to mount it inside the dashboard and be invisible.
I guess that is aroun 3mm in normal human speak…If you are still referring to the xAC V2 that should work fine through 3mm of plastic
Obviously you would need to test for yourself, but I would be optimistic
You will probably need a cloaking device, but not sure how you would power it? Hopefully they are 12V DC systems
You accuse me of being a normal human? How dare you sir.
Invisible to all those located outside of the enclosed fairing and dashboard, which is currently the set containing all humans.
Kind of excited about this. Other solutions seems very complicated, but this looks super simple to just replace the fob, which means that I no longer have to carry the fob around, but it still won’t start without a scan.
For those not familiar with the system, my Harley (2012 Road Glide) has a key lock. The key lock unlocks the ignition switch and the steering. Once unlocked, the key is removed and the switch can be operated. To start, you turn the ignition switch to the on position, turn on the kill switch and hit the starter, but you also have to have the fob in proximity to the bike (in a pocket works fine).
I’d like to keep the key lock for security when I lock it up for the night, but using the implant instead of the fob would be pretty cool.